[Bluestuff]

I was getting the usual shifting problems being a bit notchy,
I was getting all gears but often not well.
I have been working thru the series of fixes and got to the need to replace the rose joints
on the end of the cables on the bell crank.
The joint on the horizontal cable almost fell off in my hands , so well timed i thought for this job.
I had purchase a set of new rose joints, and so set apon the task of replacing them.
I noted that they were a little longer than the originals so tried to back off the lock nut the appropriate amount.
Having thought i had done a good job, checked the gear stick to find i couldn't get any thing..!
Iv played around with both the horizontal and vertical joints at the bell crank, but can only find 1-3-5-
no 2-4-R .

can some one give me definitve answer to which cable controls wich gear set and were do i go to retrieve
the lost gears.
I had them all before so i know the little rascals are in there some were.
which cable adjusts side to side movement ( is this in the the gear stick mechanism )

I have trolled the search feature but cant find a definitive answer, suitable for my limited ability ?

 

[IanMc]

perhaps some of the posts in this thread may help you?

Gear change cable adjustment

Hi guys I've not been on for a while as after I had the cracked piston liner replaced by the well known guys last autumn, my car needed a few other things addressing. One being that the lower gear change cable end had come apart and could have come off at anytime. I was busy with work, so I took...

www.mg-rover.org

 

[Bluestuff]

I found that one, but it doesnt say definitively how to begin from a known starting point.
Unfortunatly i have adjusted back and forth both rose joints that i don't know where i began ?
I need to be told in real simple words were to go.
Unfortunately i am working on this on my own, so i don't know were the gear lever is wen I'm adjusting things under neath the car.
I am beginning to wish i had not started this, altho i realise i was about loos all gears if that horizontal joint gave way on the road.

 

[IanMc]

I have read somewhere that it is important to:
1) Have the gear lever central and with all associated bolts etc tight (removing any 'slop')
2) Only to turn the rose joints one turn at a time, then check for the available gears.

 

[IanMc]

Perhaps something lese that might help?

Gear selector adjustment : Modern MG Forum : The MG Experience

Last night I installed two new cable ends at the gearbox end of my 95 F due to the cross gate one failing. When I took the car for a drive I found that it had trouble going into 2, 4 and R, it initially won't go into gear and have to try a second time. I thought I screwed the new ends on the same

www.mgexp.com

 

[mowog73]

The cable that goes over the gearbox and down to the bell cranks is the crossgate cable.

Several years ago I asked Roger Parker about how to adjust the rose-joint to improve shifting and this is the response I received from him:

The crossgate cable is the cable that generally gives most difficulty in respect to quality of gear selection if the natural mid rest positions of the gearchange lever and mechanism in not matching the natural mid rest position of the actual gearbox linkage.

I have found that the best way to get these to match is to set the gearbox in neutral then disconnect the crossgate cable and ensure that the gear lever is sitting in its natural neutral mid rest position and then look to see how far apart the cable end joint socket and the ball of the bell crank are apart and then to adjust the position of the joint on the cable so the cup is as close to the ball as possible.

Before clipping the cable end joint onto the bell crank there is an ideal format to aim for. This is to align the joint to get as close as possible to a crossing the Tee position against the ball joint of the bell crank. That is to say if the ball joint was the shaft of the letter T, then the ideal is to get the cable joint to be the cross of that T rather than the common angled presentation seen on so many cars.

This process of disconnecting the joint from the ball to first align in the natural neutral position of both the cable and bell crank, plus ‘cross the T’ positioning of the joint before refitting to the bell crank can be applied to the gearchange cable too.

 

[Bluestuff]

I think i have found the cause of my frustration,
it appears the bell crank is moving both forward and backward , and up and down and every witch way.
When i push the crank to twist the selector shaft, the crank moves a little but the selector shaft does not !
Its only a little movement but i think it surpasses any adjustments i make ?
Is it a roll pin thats given up ?
With only a few days till xmas, its looking like its going to be parked up for a month..ggrrrrrrr
Should i “ bite the bullet” and buy a new bell crank set up or persevere with what iv got with a noticeable wear in the crank end ?
Any ideas any one ?

 

[Julian Foulger]

There should be no movement so it well may be the roll pin. Can be a pain to get out but a cheap solution if indeed it is the problem.

 

[Bluestuff]

I got it off, and it was the roll pin had flogged out the hole in the selector shaft.
Im working on a somewhat makeshift repair then see if i can have another crack at adjusting the cables.
Im hoping i can drill out the holes in the crank and selector shaft and tap in a larger roll pin.

Fingers crossed ….

 

[Bluestuff]

Are selctor sharfs easy to find, the end of mine has a slight wear tapper as the crank has been shuffling around for the last 20 years so im not sure how successful my fix will be, and i am yet to solve the oridginal problem of adjusting the joints…

 

[davidej]

I imagine that to replace the selector shaft would be a major operation.

Would I be mad to suggest that you get someone to dab it with a Mig to weld the crank in the right place.

Obviously you might a some future time have to cut the shaft if you have other gearbox problems but that seems a remote (sorry for the pun) possibility compared with replacing it now.

 

[Bluestuff]

If putting a bolt thru it doesn't work, then yes a dab with a Mig on the end could be the next try.
I drove around all day today trying to find a roll pin between 8-9 mm,
but no one had any thing close !

 

[IanMc]

If putting a bolt thru it doesn't work, then yes a dab with a Mig on the end could be the next try.
I drove around all day today trying to find a roll pin between 8-9 mm,
but no one had any thing close !

If all else fails, buy a piece of diameter 3/8" (9.5 mm) steel and make one yourself, then open out the hole a little more to suit.
Good luck

 

[davidej]

Sounds awfully wide. I seem to remember my roll pin was about 4mm diameter.

 

[Bluestuff]

thats a 5/16 bolt and nut ..
I had to put a 5/16 drill thru to clean it up as it was very oval from excessive wear.

 

[Bluestuff]

If all else fails, buy a piece of diameter 3/8" (9.5 mm) steel and make one yourself, then open out the hole a little more to suit.
Good luck

3/8 makes the selector rod very thin walled …..

 

[IanMc]

3/8 makes the selector rod very thin walled …..

Its only an additional 0.8 mm on radius, but OK.

 

[Bluestuff]

Its only an additional 0.8 mm on radius, but OK.

would it only leave about 2 mm left on either side ?

Im stumped now untill every one comes back to work in a few weeks…..

 

[mowog73]

If the bell crank is worn excessively, Mke Satur makes a bell crank assembly that provides better shifting

MGF Gearbox Bell Crank

Re-designed and manufactured by Mike Satur. This replaces the stock item with new rod ends that make a considerable difference to the selection of the gears.

www.mikesatur.co.uk

 

[Bluestuff]

If the bell crank is worn excessively, Mke Satur makes a bell crank assembly that provides better shifting

MGF Gearbox Bell Crank

Re-designed and manufactured by Mike Satur. This replaces the stock item with new rod ends that make a considerable difference to the selection of the gears.

www.mikesatur.co.uk

the wear seems more on the selector shaft than the bell crank.