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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi

Over the last few months my ZR had been loosing coolant but without any obvious signs of headgasket failure or of where the coolant was going. This slowly got faster but I just kept an eye on it and kept it topped up.

The headgasket failed a few weeks back rather spectacularly on the way back from work. I had been driving the car for about 10 minutes or so (gently to let it warm up) and as I was pulling onto the motorway it just wasn't right so I checked the temperature guage (which I have a habit of checking) and it was sky high and rapidly approaching the red. I immediately pulled over and switched off the car. On opening the bonnet I saw that it had dumped all of it's coolant, the engine was incredibly hot, the fan was going crazy and steam was pouring out of the oil filler cap when I opened it. This with the mayo like substance (looking slightly burnt) lead me to suspect HGF. Odd as only a week or so before it was fine and I had taken the spark plugs out to check and they were fine too. I didn't drive the car from this point on - I waited two and a half hours for a tow truck to get home! The next day I had the car towed to the local Rover dealer who said that it looks like HGF and confirmed it when they took the head off.

They checked the head and confirmed that it wasn't warped (probably due to the fact that I stopped immediately) and fixed it for £800. They replaced the cylinder, camshaft, exhaust manifold and inlet manifold gaskets along with the cambelt. They also replaced the oil, oil filter, performed an engine flush and refilled the coolant as you'd expect. They also replaced the expansion tank cap.

I noticed that they had overfilled the coolant but I wasn't overly concerned as I was told that this wasn't a big issue (not sure on this). The coolant dropped to the max level - again I wasn't concerned. It has, however, been dropping since. It'll drop from max to min in about a week to a week and a half. Apart from the fact that it's loosing coolant the engine has been running perfectly since the headgasket change. I also took it easy for the first five hundred miles as suggested


If anyone has any hints/tips I'd love to hear them!


Thanking you in advance,

Alistair
 

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Hi

Over the last few months my ZR had been loosing coolant but without any obvious signs of headgasket failure or of where the coolant was going. This slowly got faster but I just kept an eye on it and kept it topped up.

The headgasket failed a few weeks back rather spectacularly on the way back from work. I had been driving the car for about 10 minutes or so (gently to let it warm up) and as I was pulling onto the motorway it just wasn't right so I checked the temperature guage (which I have a habit of checking) and it was sky high and rapidly approaching the red. I immediately pulled over and switched off the car. On opening the bonnet I saw that it had dumped all of it's coolant, the engine was incredibly hot, the fan was going crazy and steam was pouring out of the oil filler cap when I opened it. This with the mayo like substance (looking slightly burnt) lead me to suspect HGF. Odd as only a week or so before it was fine and I had taken the spark plugs out to check and they were fine too. I didn't drive the car from this point on - I waited two and a half hours for a tow truck to get home! The next day I had the car towed to the local Rover dealer who said that it looks like HGF and confirmed it when they took the head off.

They checked the head and confirmed that it wasn't warped (probably due to the fact that I stopped immediately) and fixed it for £800. They replaced the cylinder, camshaft, exhaust manifold and inlet manifold gaskets along with the cambelt. They also replaced the oil, oil filter, performed an engine flush and refilled the coolant as you'd expect. They also replaced the expansion tank cap.

I noticed that they had overfilled the coolant but I wasn't overly concerned as I was told that this wasn't a big issue (not sure on this). The coolant dropped to the max level - again I wasn't concerned. It has, however, been dropping since. It'll drop from max to min in about a week to a week and a half. Apart from the fact that it's loosing coolant the engine has been running perfectly since the headgasket change. I also took it easy for the first five hundred miles as suggested


If anyone has any hints/tips I'd love to hear them!


Thanking you in advance,

Alistair
does the car start ok first from a cold start? how about after a hot start?

You need to determine if the coolant is leaking internally or externally.

Check the following:

Metal coolant pipe, is this corroded?

The thermostat housing seals, these are broken very very easily and is a prime spot for leaking.

Is there any water marks downthe front or back of the block?

Have you tried putting a tray or some paper under the car and then checking in the morirng?

If a garage did the job for you @ £800 the job should be A1 and its not.

I would take it back to the garage and ask for a courtesy car whilst yours is being sorted.

HTH

Ben
 

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hey,

Just got my hg fixed a month ago coolant level dropping took it to a garage, got the HG replaced with new LR gasket with shim, new cambelt, tensioner, water pump and oil/coolant and filters all for 450 quid. My coolant continued to drop for about a week at the same rate as before the hg was fixed this can be due to tiny air locks in the system and generally allowing the gasket to settle. After two weeks (touch wood) no level drop was evident and (touch wood) the car seems to be running fine. 800 pound seems a bit much? what type of gasket did they replace it with? the Land Rover (LR) is far superior to the old style paper ones.....If your worried take it back it should be guaranteed for 10000 miles anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
does the car start ok first from a cold start? how about after a hot start?

You need to determine if the coolant is leaking internally or externally.

Check the following:

Metal coolant pipe, is this corroded?

The thermostat housing seals, these are broken very very easily and is a prime spot for leaking.

Is there any water marks downthe front or back of the block?

Have you tried putting a tray or some paper under the car and then checking in the morirng?

If a garage did the job for you @ £800 the job should be A1 and its not.

I would take it back to the garage and ask for a courtesy car whilst yours is being sorted.

HTH

Ben
Hi

Thanks for your quick reply

The car starts fine, both when hot and when cold. I'll go through the list and see what I can see - as you say the job should be perfect for the price I paid (and that's one of the reasons why I went to a dealer)

hey,

Just got my hg fixed a month ago coolant level dropping took it to a garage, got the HG replaced with new LR gasket with shim, new cambelt, tensioner, water pump and oil/coolant and filters all for 450 quid. My coolant continued to drop for about a week at the same rate as before the hg was fixed this can be due to tiny air locks in the system and generally allowing the gasket to settle. After two weeks (touch wood) no level drop was evident and (touch wood) the car seems to be running fine. 800 pound seems a bit much? what type of gasket did they replace it with? the Land Rover (LR) is far superior to the old style paper ones.....If your worried take it back it should be guaranteed for 10000 miles anyway.

Hi

Thanks for the reply. I'll keep an eye on it and do the checks mentioned earlier and see if it stabilises - as you say it might just be the headgasket settling down

They fitted the Rover OEM part, not the Land Rover gasket (they said that they'd never fit it to a car that isn't a Land Rover) but they assured me that they fit the premium genuine part which has been improved over the older gaskets
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi

The coolant level looked like it had stabilised as the rate that it had been dropping slowed down quickly and it seemed to have stopped. When I checked it this morning however it had dropped to minimum - it was fine when I last checked it about a week ago.

I haven't noticed any coolant under the car or any leaks around the engine block either. My heart sank when I saw it as I thought it had stopped!
 

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i need to no whats wrong with my car ASAPP!

basicly i drove to work friday night got to a rounderbout and the car died
the car wouldent start unless i kept pumping the throttle. got it started then when i stop revving it it kept cutting out
the next day i tryed again and i had to pump throttle to start it up again and it stayed running with out revvin it.
the exhaust smells more fumey then normal and it sounds spluttery.. the water in the bottle keeps going sumwer but it dont empty right out just goes under half way line..

ive been told ither head gasket!! :( :(
or bad fuel lines?

i need answer real quick as its killing me thinkin its the head gasket and i realy cannot afford to get the engine rebuilt!! :(

thanks craig
 

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Umm you need to start a new thread bud, go back to the 200/25/ZR section where everyone is posting and then click start thread on the left near the top.
 

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Get the coolent system pressure checked it will show up any leaks. I assume for your 800 quid they replaced the cambelt and water pump. Its easy to point the finger at the garage and sayit hasnt been fixed properly but u were loosing coolent b4 it went in. Did they ever find the cause? it would be the coolent loss that caused the hgf prob not the other way round in this case.

hope this helps
coop
 

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Thought everyone who had dealings with the rover head gasket problems,always fitted the later improved* land rover *type gasket,as the original one"s,in spite of saying the *improved one* was better, it did not stand upto being damaged by the liners,or the melting locating dowels,etc.
Remember it was the engine faults that caused the problem of hgf.Rover never had the will, or money left, to improve the engine,(when they went into decline)this was the state of the art engine ,for power to weight ratio,in the early ninetys,
but never had the benefit of further development,when the problems came to light, by which time,they were sinking.
 

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'06 MG ZR +120 (HQM) '04 MG ZR 105 (IAB)
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I think a lot of places tend to use the SLS gasket as the first type MLS gasket has only been supplied through Land Rover (I don't think it has ever been in the XPart stock ?), and the SAIC one piece MLS gasket for the N series is very expensive (and it requires mandatory fitting of a new oil rail and long bolts).

There are circumstances where the MLS gasket may be more likely to fail than the old SLS one and its use will depend on the liner heights - the recommendation is that the stand proud be at least 4 thou, and if they are much below this the MLS gasket can be less likely to achieve a successful seal than the SLS one with the elastomer bead (if the engine has overheated, there is also the possibility the liners may have sunk). It can also be the case that the stand proud varies from one cylinder to another, and if the variance is too great it would result in uneven clamping force from one cylinder to the next which the elastomer bead will adjust itself to better than the MLS type.

The alternative is to go to the trouble of reseating the liners to acheive sufficient (and even) stand proud.

I read somewhere that there has also occasionally been an issue with 'Queen Mary Syndrome' where the liners are not quite at 90 degrees to the head face, and lean backwards slightly.
 
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