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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The Journey So Far:
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6

I'll start this one with a quick fix, the gear stick was extremely floppy, I would stick the car into 1st gear and the gear stick would then move to the left so much it looked like it was in 3rd gear, I followed this guide here (Stiffen MG TF Gear Stick - PKD44 - The T Bar) about tightening the 3 bolts that hold the gear selector system, which did help but did not resolved the issue.

Investigating further the next day, I removed the gear gator and after wiggling the gear knob around for a while could see where the issue fell.

It was due to the white plastic holder that hold a metal ball bearing in it, over the years it has clearly worn out, and after research, it appears you can't just buy the plastic holder😔 (that I could find anyway). To get around this, and seeing what other had done, they had simply stuck some card in the gap to make it more solid, I had done this but still wasn't perfect, I found it was hard to insert card as it would then bend and crumple when trying to shove it in the gap. I also tried cutting an old membership card up, but due to the shiny plastic of it, it just slid out, in the end I used some cut up zip tie, for my case, it was the perfect thickness, the zip tie works great and it's easy to remove if I need to, now the gear stick stays where it should and feels much better:

Automotive tire Black Tread Automotive lighting Wheel

The next thing that needed fixing was something I was aware of when I bought the car, but wasn't an immediate issue as the hard top was on, the metal trim that goes around the bottom of the soft top had broken (this wasn't visible with the hardtop on). The clips that hold it place had snapped off, I have seen replacements pop up from time to time, but can be pricey.
Hood Netbook Automotive design Automotive exterior Vehicle door

Have you ever used something for something other than it's intended use, but end up working perfectly, and out of pure luck!? This is what happened trying to fix the trim.

I purchased these plastic screws (Plastic Screw Clip Fasteners - Amazon) for use on the plastic cover under the bonnet due to a screw missing but these were to small for that purpose, I then came across them and thought what if the plastic rivets fit in the holes and the screw fit inside the trim, and then they can just be pushed down and hold in place, could you imagine how good that would be!

Well would you believe it, the plastic rivets fit perfectly, and sliding in the plastic screws from the end of the metal trim and sliding them down until they align with the rivet worked perfectly, I then simply pressed down and it stuck into place, then re-insert the end cap of the trim. Also, with a bit of force they come out as well (in case I ever want to replace it properly)
Eyewear Automotive mirror Communication Device Gesture Finger

This is the car with the trim in place, you can hardly tell, £3.50 well spent!
Hood Automotive tire Road surface Automotive lighting Asphalt

Next an absolute requirement, and sadly the MG solution is not good enough, I am of course talking about cup holders🥤. I tried using the built in cup holder but they are so shallow that cup fall over and let alone where to then put your arm, space is already limited in an MG TF!

I purchased these cup holders (Foldable Car Cup Holders - Amazon), at first I struggled where to install the cup holder, as I did not want to make any permanent fittings (i.e drilling / screws), I then settled for the following:

Cable ties around the hole for the gear stick which come out at the bottom on the centre unit, these would then thread through the cup holder, this works well as the gear stick cover / gaiter still clips back on (apart from the one clip on the left) but still clips on well, the good thing about the position of the cup holder is that the bottom of the cup holder sits on the lever to adjust the passenger seat, meaning any heavy bottles don't pull the cup holder down and is study in place, when not in use the cup holder simply folds up and is out of the way. I will replace the black cable ties with grey ones to match better... at some point...

The only real draw back is the passenger seat cant be adjusted all the way forwards, but pulls out enough to do most tasks (remove tbar, vacuum behind seat, etc.)

Red arrows show where the cup holder rest on the chair adjustment lever
Automotive tire Automotive design Font Trunk Rim

I hadn't really been using the cigarette port as I have a USB power port on the car radio, but I went to use it and noticed it wasn't working, the port itself was damaged, I replaced the port with this one (12V Car Cigarette Port Replacement - eBay). This port does include a light up ring, however I decide not to hook this up as I didn't have the correct spade connector to hook it up safely, furthermore, I ended up painting the orange ring black to make it a bit more sleek. Despite changing the port it still didn't work, but a simple fuse swapped fixed this.

This is a very quick job, remove the ashtray (pry to to clips closet to the gear stick) and it will lift out, then push the old port out, then install the plastic ring first (without the actual metal port), then thread the power cable through the new plastic ring and then into the new connector, this makes plugging it in much easier. Then push the new metal connector in and your done:
Automotive tire Automotive design Car Motor vehicle Rim

I have had an issue with the alarm going off by itself (the neighbours love me 😳). It was very random, it triggered by itself about three months ago, randomly (and luckily) in the day. I re-armed it and it stopped, 5 minutes it happened again, this time I started and moved the car forward and that was it for three months, no issues.

Then last week it happened again at 20:45PM on the Monday, I have cameras and no foxes, cats, people near the car, no change in light or weather, locked the car and that was it. Tuesday fine. Wednesday at 20:52PM it happened again and at a very similar time, not sure if it was coincidence or not, re-armed the car and was fine that night (thank god!)

So after some investigating I had to do some trial and erroring. I tried the alarm test sequence (Alarm Test Sequence - David Aiketgate - The T Bar) but could not access this, not sure if it for the older security system, but no luck.

I disconnected the horn as I would still be able to see if the alarm triggered via the lights, the neighbours have heard my horn enough! This was my testing:

The alarm can be triggered by the bonnet, boot, drivers door lock, passenger door lock and the 'motion' sensor in the car:
  • Put the roof and windows down and opened the bonnet
  • Held the bonnet button down (located near the horn on the left-hand side) and locked the car with the fob, released the bonnet button and the alarm triggered, repeated three times

The motion sensor can be disabled by locking the car with the key in the driver's side, this sets the alarm but no the immobiliser:
  • Locked the car with the key, pulled the drivers door lock pin and opened the door, alarm triggered, repeated three times
  • Locked the car with the key, pulled the passengers door lock pin and opened door, alarm triggered, repeated three times

- Tried to lock the car with the boot open, would not lock as it detected boot as open, the warning light for 'open boot' was also on the dash and would turn off as soon as the boot closed, meaning a good connection, I am confident it isn't this, repeated three times

- Finally, locked the car with the fob (to activate the motion sensor), first time it triggered as it should by leaning in, second time, it triggered but needed more of my body in the car, third time, need me to hit the tbar where it sits behind for it to activate, 4th time nothing, 5th time activated correctly...

Something definitely not right there, therefore I have removed the motion sensor and so far no issues, I have ordered a replacement but will leave it a couple of weeks just to make sure. After working in IT for 10 years, if something is going to go wrong between solid metal connections and a computer / sensor, my money is on the sensor. I will keep you updated, but hopefully if you have similar issues, the above testing scheme should hopefully help!

To remove the motion sensor, simply remove the tbar and unscrew the two screws, be careful as there is a small connector that run into the white box, simply, but carefully pull it out when removing
Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Office equipment Vehicle door

I also have had the car serviced at British Legends in Southend-on-Sea, great guys and really know their stuff, if you're in or near Essex I would definitely recommend them.

I installed (prior to the service) a Pipercross Air Filter, the main reason for these is that they have a lifetime warranty and in the long run will save money, but I also heard they can give you a performance boost. I installed mine in my MG TF 135 and in all honesty I noticed a decent difference, the car isn't faster, but definitely much more responsive and reactive with the throttle, in fairness the old air filter was very dirty, and I even found leaves in the air box!?, so this may have made the difference show even more, but I am really happy with it (Pipercross Panel / Air Filter - PP1555)

Finally, you may have seen some customisation items in my pictures, I will link them below, if you have seen something you like but I haven't listed it, please message me and I will have a look through my extensive list of orders 😂


Silver Number Plate Border - eBay

Black and Red 'UK' Number Plate Sticker - eBay (legally required for travelling outside the UK, can no longer us 'GB' plates)

New Rubber Brake and Clutch Pedal Pads - eBay (gives better grip)

Car Fuses - Assortment - eBay

USB Angle Connector - eBay

USB Multi Connector Hub - eBay (Powers Dashcam, LEDS & Amazon Auto via Radio USB)

MG Seat Belt Cover - eBay (matches the red stitching Sebring seats well)
Textile Sleeve Grey Collar Material property

Grey MG Logo - Alloy Centre Caps - eBay

Shiny Grey MG Logo Emblem Sticker - eBay (Front & Rear Emblems 70mm)

Shiny Grey MG Logo Emblem Sticker - eBay (Steering Wheel 40mm)

Black and Silver MG Logo Dust Caps - Amazon (these aren't rubberised inside, so could corrode to the valve, but had no issues 8 months in)
Wheel Vehicle Photograph Car Automotive tire

New Soft Top / Hard Top Screws - eBay

OSRAM Night Breaker Laser H7 - Pair - Amazon

OSRAM Night Breaker Laster HB3 - Pair - Amazon

Windscreen Vents Silver Cover - eBay (one off sale, haven't seen anything similar since)

Interior Cabin LEDS - Amazon
Automotive lighting Hood Automotive design Automotive tail & brake light Headlamp

I hope you have been enjoying these updates, looking back I've done quite a bit! I appreciate a lot of these things are only small odd bits, but I have enjoyed doing them and owning an MG!

I don't really have too many plans now, so may be a while before Part 7, but if you have any questions about the works I have done, please leave a comment below, I would be happy to discuss, thank you for reading!

953 Posts
Brillant posts I have done about half that you have done, eg under bonnet bolts, the horn coupler which is easy to do, roll hoops, glass rear screen in the soft top, taipan cold air induction with 52mm throttle body, low coolant alarm, new Sony radio with Bluetooth, aluminium rings to clocks and heater dials, quad exhausts, new clutch arm that can be greased, 4 pot front calipers with green stuff pads and 304mm 11 spoke wheels, reversing sensors, replaced cloth seats to leather. Also a cubby pocket. Put spot lights on. So a fair bit over the years.


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