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Morning Im soon to be looking for an MG TF to restore I`ve restored classics for years but now due to age I want a project I can just play with when I feel like it. I have seen quite a few MG TF cars which need a new rear sub frame Is it worth going for one of these and how big a job is it to replace I have all the tool needed and the time Len
 

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mg_tf
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I refurbished both my sub frames last year. Obviously the rear in my opinion is the more tricky having the engine/gearbox attached. I looked at the many 'how to's' online and found it very easy to get the unit and sub frame out. I would think raising the body work up high enough to be the most testing part of the removal. I have a raise and tilt lift which made this relatively easy. Time wise, it took me a couple of hours to remove the unit.
Thinking about it, one of the most frustrating things was removing the rear bumper, one of the large torx bolts had the head form stripped out so had to hack it out.
Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Automotive tire


I would say if you feel confident enough and have an average toolbox, you should be OK. Mind you, I found it was easy to get carried away and replace everything you see 'just in case'.
 

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97 BRG MGF. 2009 SKODA SUPERB.
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I refurbished both my sub frames last year. Obviously the rear in my opinion is the more tricky having the engine/gearbox attached. I looked at the many 'how to's' online and found it very easy to get the unit and sub frame out. I would think raising the body work up high enough to be the most testing part of the removal. I have a raise and tilt lift which made this relatively easy. Time wise, it took me a couple of hours to remove the unit.
Thinking about it, one of the most frustrating things was removing the rear bumper, one of the large torx bolts had the head form stripped out so had to hack it out.
View attachment 138707

I would say if you feel confident enough and have an average toolbox, you should be OK. Mind you, I found it was easy to get carried away and replace everything you see 'just in case'.
Hi that's a great piece of kit, that lift and tilt. Purchased from?? Regards. D4KGP.
 

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mg_tf
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I saw it originally at the classic car show a few years back. The trade stand was cjautos. But I did get mine from eBay and although it came from Germany I think it was via china, but the price was good.
 

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I bought a 2004 TF 135 for my wife to drive, the engine was gone so I am replacing it with a VVC engine. The subframes were bad so I bought good second hand ones and new mounts even though some were quite good. I found one wheel bearing was bad enough for the ABS ring to rub on the sensor. So I have de rusted the suspension , new bearings and bushes, its not too expensive if you shop carefully. Removing the subframe was actually very quick, about three hours after removing the bumper, exhaust etc. I soaked all the mounting bolts with plus gas for a couple of day and they all came out easily which is more than I can say for the front subframe mountings. I used a trolly jack and a piece of 4x4 timber which went from one sill to the other, the other thing that is incredibly useful is a hand pallet truck (拢45 ebay) which enable me to move the subframe out easily. The worst part was actually separating the not so quick release heater pipe connectors.
What astonished me was the amount of rust within the engine bay, it was along the lower two inches or so of the bulkhead, around the wheel arches (both underneath and above) and the air filter bracket was beyond belief.
 

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MGF, 2001
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I've been thinking about pulling the subframes off my MGF to give them a de-rust and paint but not sure how to support the car without jacking/axle-standing by the subframes themselves. It sounds simple enough, but I'm just a touch worried about damaging something underneath if I get it wrong, so some words from someone who has done it before would go a long way!
@MGB281 - could you give me a step-by-step on how you got your TF up on timber/stands, please?
 

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mg_tf
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As previously posted, I'm lucky enough to have a lift and tilt jack. However, when I set about the front, I found it easy enough to raise the front of the car with an engine crane and strop attached to the front crash bar, leaving the sub frame assembly wheels etc to pull out once the car body was high enough, It was easy to support the body on stands remember a large percentage of the weight is in the rear of the car. If you look around, there are some very good how to's about removing front and rear subframes without too much trouble. Obviously, do check for serious corrosion under the car should you intend to support it after the subframes have been removed.
 

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Before I write anything else I would like to make it clear that this is the way I did it, may not be the best way but it worked for me. I am fortunate in that I have access to a large agricultural building with a perfectly flat floor. I also have lengths of 8x2 timber and concrete blocks. First of all I drove the car up the 8x2 boards (each about 4 feet long, the ends rested on 100mm concrete blocks on their flat sides. I then placed the trolley Jack at one end of the car and placed a 100mm square fence post across the car. You will see from the photos exactly what I did. I then jacked it upwards and placed 3 concrete blocks each side then lowered the fence post until the car was supported by the blocks. I then repeated the process at the other end. This gave me a good unobstructed view of everything that I needed to disconnect. I had sprayed Plusgas for a couple of days on all the bolts that hold the subframe on, using a MAP torch I heated all the subframe bolts until they started to glow red an undid each one a full turn. Every bolt on the rear subframe undid easily. I had purchased a hand pallet truck (the best 拢40 that I have spent for years) and placing a pallet on it jacked it up under the subframe. I then lowered the TF until the subframe rested on the pallet, I then put off cuts of wood to pack the gap between the front of the subframe and the pallet. I was then able to undo the subframe mounting bolts, all that remained was to Jack the TF up again to clear the engine. The pallet truck made easy work of pulling the subframe with engine and gearbox backwards. The front subframe was done in exactly the same way, except most of the mounting bolts snapped off despite the Plusgas and heat. In this case I had no option but to lower the front of the TF with subframe attached onto the pallet before loosening the bolts.
If you have any bolts snap off buy quality boron bits to drill them out, I think I had eight snap off
Hopefully the photos shot the timbers across the bottom of the TF
 

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97 BRG MGF. 2009 SKODA SUPERB.
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Really helpful, thanks!
I have a friend with a two post lift so I'll use that, ensuring any crossmembers are properly secured, of course!
I've been thinking about pulling the subframes off my MGF to give them a de-rust and paint but not sure how to support the car without jacking/axle-standing by the subframes themselves. It sounds simple enough, but I'm just a touch worried about damaging something underneath if I get it wrong, so some words from someone who has done it before would go a long way!
@MGB281 - could you give me a step-by-step on how you got your TF up on timber/stands, please?
Hi, so why ask this question if you have a mate with a two post lift? I would love to have a mate with a two post lift! Regards. D4KGP.
 
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