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MG TF 135 2003
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Discussion Starter #1
Just set front suspension with Spax damper Eibach springs following:
With both poly bush with the tapered end down over, I see on the internet everybody fit the bushes in many ways, for example here is the other way around, with tapered end up:

And now have a creaking noise at very slow speeds over bumps, like our MGF mate in:

Mine is a TF. Does someone have the truth about the correct position of both top damper poly bushes? I guess this is the problem.
Or someone has this problem earlier in a TF with Spax+Eibach springs?

Thanks in advance to everybody!
 

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MGTF 135
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I fitted new spax and green springs a couple of months ago and followed the "How to replace your shocks and springs......" to the letter. Did you fit new Rover bolts to the lower damper bracket, and new bolts to the anti roll bar? Also did you follow the changeover of the bushes etc to the new dampers and springs exactly as shown in the how to? I also sprayed the rubber bushes with silicon before re-assembly. A slow speed creak might just be that you cleaned the rubber bushes too well and didn't lubricate them before fitting. I sometimes used to get a creak at the front of my old TF, I cured it completely with a quick spray of silicon.
 

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I've recently replaced both sets of struts on my MGMotors TF, like for like, with comfort green/yellows.

A little later I took the old units apart to keep the springs so that I can build up a new set later when funds allow new dampers.

I remember that both top bushes were tapered downwards in my case and I'm almost certain they were the factory originals. I threaded string through the old parts and picc'd them so as not to forget. I also seem to remember feeling the need to double-check their alignment on the forum thread but I can't check back now 'cos the pics have been removed.

For what it's worth I seem to remember feeling relieved when I looked at Rimmers diag and found it agreed with both my bushes tapering down but thought it wouldn't seem to matter anyway. On my previous MGRover TF one of the top bushes was tapered upwards which probably caused my own lack of confidence - but I know one side had been the subject of a broken lower bolt repair by the previous owner's local garage...

I wonder if your harder polybushes transmit more noise than rubber? I, too, lubed my (rubber) bushes with silicon and brake piston rubber grease. Also, did you take the opportunity to grease-gun the suspension nipples? Your noise might be a combi of the two and this cured a similar noise when I had a slow creak like yours with the previous TF after fitting new struts to that one too. (And I found a little more tightness for the top nut!)

That's another thought - we have to 'guess' the tightness of the top nut, don't we? I wonder if this contributes in your case? Oh, and did you renew the rubber bit between the top of the strut and the bodywork? I noticed mine was rather thin this time but didn't think to order spares or lube it :-(
134410
 

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MG TF 135 2003
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Discussion Starter #4
I've recently replaced both sets of struts on my MGMotors TF, like for like, with comfort green/yellows.

A little later I took the old units apart to keep the springs so that I can build up a new set later when funds allow new dampers.

I remember that both top bushes were tapered downwards in my case and I'm almost certain they were the factory originals. I threaded string through the old parts and picc'd them so as not to forget. I also seem to remember feeling the need to double-check their alignment on the forum thread but I can't check back now 'cos the pics have been removed.

For what it's worth I seem to remember feeling relieved when I looked at Rimmers diag and found it agreed with both my bushes tapering down but thought it wouldn't seem to matter anyway. On my previous MGRover TF one of the top bushes was tapered upwards which probably caused my own lack of confidence - but I know one side had been the subject of a broken lower bolt repair by the previous owner's local garage...

I wonder if your harder polybushes transmit more noise than rubber? I, too, lubed my (rubber) bushes with silicon and brake piston rubber grease. Also, did you take the opportunity to grease-gun the suspension nipples? Your noise might be a combi of the two and this cured a similar noise when I had a slow creak like yours with the previous TF after fitting new struts to that one too. (And I found a little more tightness for the top nut!)

That's another thought - we have to 'guess' the tightness of the top nut, don't we? I wonder if this contributes in your case? Oh, and did you renew the rubber bit between the top of the strut and the bodywork? I noticed mine was rather thin this time but didn't think to order spares or lube it :-(
View attachment 134410
Thanks for your answer!

Yes, I lubed the nipples at the upper suspension arm.

134411


Last week I did some tests, I changed the position of the bush (10) tapered end up, and nothing changes, so I guess there is no difference... anyway now is tapered end down again (like at the photo). After xmas I want to do some more tests to try to identify the problem, I'm thinking in:
  • Unmount the strut from the car and try to reproduce the noise by hand just with the upper, lower arm and hub, if there is no noise, the problem will be at the strut, damper, washers, spring, bushes...
  • Another theory is the 7 part is not perfectly centered with 8 part, and maybe this is causing the noise, I'll try to perfectly center and will see if the noise disappears.
  • Another theory is the 3, 4 and 5 parts are too long for the new lowered springs and the 5 is hitting the 7 or 8 part.
I'll try these things and I'll keep you updated about it to avoid these problems in the future for MG TF owners. In the meanwhile, if somebody has any suggestions it would be welcome.

I attached a video
and you can hear after the second 30 the noise. I jumped at the door frame to reproduce it, hehehe.

Merry Christmas to all!!
 

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Yep unmount + downward pressure will be a good first thought.
It does sound like a dry bush moving tho'. Did you renew or lube part 3?
Or try the setting at factory length since you're pulling it apart?
When you finally tightened did you use a jack under the hub so that the spring was normally tensioned and the damper properly aligned. If not the damper stalk might 'sound' against the tube as it moves, I wonder?
Just random thoughts. Silicon spray might be your friend...
Merry Xmas. Let us know when you sort it...
 

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MG TF 135 2003
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Discussion Starter #6
I have no time to review this yet, but looking at the forum I found this thread:
And this explains my guess in my previous comment:
Another theory is the 3, 4 and 5 parts are too long for the new lowered springs and the 5 is hitting the 7 or 8 part.
Seems the Bump Stop (part 3) is too high for the new suspension. I'll cut it and I'll share my experience here.

Regarding your comment above:
we have to 'guess' the tightness of the top nut, don't we?
I use Crowfoot Wrench to apply the correct tightness, like that:
 
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