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Most important for all modern MG/Rover (and other marques) engines is to stick to the following generic points, imho:
  1. Hard to get nowadays anyway, but don't use pure mineral oil. Semi-synthetic or full synthetic is the way to go.
  2. Try to use an oil that has the smallest 'width'. 10W40 is preferred over 5W40, due to the presence of more viscosity modifiers (they use a thinner base oil in the 5W40 vs 10W40 due to pumping ability during cold cranking).
  3. Grade of oil: Try to run the same grade/thickness oil for the complete lifetime of the engine and do not switch. For example, if you get blue smoke on a higher mileage engine, there is no need to switch to a thicker oil (which is just masking the underlying issue). Just repair the pistons and/or piston rings.
  4. Use a quality filter when using aftermarket filters, preferably long filters (generally more flow, more filter surface area and generally bypass valve will open less frequently). Think of stuff like MANN-FILTER, Mahle or equivalent. Do NOT buy filters of subsidiary MANN-FILTER brands, like Filtron and such. Above all, never EVER use Fram (or Fram subsidiary) filters as they disintegrate if you even look at them (yes, they are VERY bad filters).
  5. Hard to go wrong nowadays, but use oil with equal to OEM or higher specification. It does not matter if it states it's for Ford specifically, just make sure the specs you need (or better) are on the bottle. Full synthetic is always possible to switch to and if seals are starting to leak, it means they were already bad and the oil does what it needs to, which is: lubricate and clean your engine. I can recommend full synthetic on engines that are prone to sludge buildup.
  6. Do NOT use, for example, an ACEA C3 oil in an engine that calls for A3/B3 and/or A3/B4! Shear strength and film thickness is different and will ruin your engine in the long run!
  7. Stick to the OEM refresh/change intervals and checks. NEVER drive longer with oil than the spec sheets say. If you drive many short distances, drain/refill earlier than OEM interval as gasoline dilution occurs and moisture will build up in the oil due to not getting hot enough for long enough. If you use the car in excessive conditions (lots of towing for instance or high humid conditions), then you also want to drain/refill more frequent than OEM sheets tell you to.
  8. Change the oil frequently (did I say this already?) 😁
  9. If you're really up to it, do a UOA (used oil analysis) now and then to really find out whether your oil is still good for a few thousand clicks (could save you money in the long run when using same brand and type oil).
It's all very simple, really (yes, really! 😄). If your engine calls for semi-synthetic and you do not have sludge issues, keep using semi-synthetic (because it works, has proven itself and is cheaper). If you have sludge, try a full synthetic as they clean more thorough. However, most important is to stick to the given specification. This has to do with shear strength and a load of other 'balances' (like viscosity modifiers vs quantity of base oils used). The more viscosity modifiers in it, the less base oil is present (which is the real lubricant, imho).

Remember, oil is the blood of your engine. It is what makes and keeps it working. You might use cheaper supermarket or 'dollar store' oils than Castrol, Shell, etc. but please change it more frequently. As always, you get what you pay for and you get the longevity you want only when using quality oils that conform to the specification your engine calls for.

Hope this helps :)
 

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MGF's x 5 MGTF's x 6, Rover 620Ti & Cortina Mk3
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Personally I use any make 10w40 semi-synthetic as long as it is API rated category SJ or above. Most of the time you only find API category SL which was introduced in 2004. Any 10w40 semi-synthetic, be it aldi, tesco, asda, poundland, etc. between category SJ (introduced 2001) to the newest category SP (introduced 2020) will be fine, just check the oil container for the API category :)
 

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827 Si Auto, SD1 2600 VdP Manual
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Hi dert,

I noticed the API spec is not as expanded as the ACEA spec. I would therefore still recommend to stick to ACEA as they also take (for example) shearing strength (HTHS) into account. Please check here for more details of the latest revision: https://www.acea.auto/files/2021_ACEA_oil_sequences_light-duty_engines.pdf

If you have found more details on API spec than I could have found till now, would you please share it as oil always has my curiosity :)

Regardless, if your owner's manual states CCMC G4 oil (CCMC is an older standard/spec), you will want to use now the ACEA A3/B3 or A3/B4 only and NOT a C-rated oil!
 

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I refer you to post #3
 

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At the moment Magnatec 10/40 semi synthetic is £17.04 for 4 litres on Amazon
Also £21.50 on Ebay
You probably won't buy any brand cheaper so why not use what is accepted as the best oil for the VVC variant and use it in all.
Good find, but doesn't have enough for an oil change with a new filter and it is another tenner for an extra litre, pisses me off Castrol do this, so I don't buy their oils.
 

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I find Magnatec overpriced anyway. It’s almost sold as a full synth oil (but it’s semi synth for that viscosity). Might as well buy GTX Ultraclean then (5L are about 28 euro over here). edit: Just checked and Magnatec is about 20 euros more expensive without really knowing the advantages...

OP, if you’re still lurking in here, I wouldn’t buy Magnatec specifically and am not convinced of their ‘metal clinging’ particles marketing BS.
 

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Since I have only just acquired my TF (not even on the road yet!) I am not qualified to comment as to whether Magnatec is worth the money, BUT there are large numbers who are totally convinced that the ECU on the VVC engine (which I have) was calibrated to Magnatec semi synthetic oil. Equally a number of VVC engine owners are convinced that the valve train stays quieter for longer.
Separately from this buying on the basis of an oil spec to my unqualified mind seems to be a hit and miss affair, how do we know if a specific oil just meets a spec or even far exceeds it? It's the same with brake pads, buying ones that are E90 marked gives us confidence or does it? E90 demands that a E90 spec brake pad meets or exceeds just 85% of the performance of the OE pads, does not inspire confidence does it.
 

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BUT there are large numbers who are totally convinced that the ECU on the VVC engine (which I have) was calibrated to Magnatec semi synthetic oil. Equally a number of VVC engine owners are convinced that the valve train stays quieter for longer.
Rover introduced the VVC engine in 1995 so I would assume the development of the engine would have taken place a good while prior to its introduction. Castrol introduced Magnatec to the world in 1996 and I'd assume would have been developing it for sometime prior to its introduction. taking into account when Rover first introduced the VVC engine to the public and when Castrol intorduced Magnatec to the public, I'd say its unlikely the ECU on the VVC engine was calibrated to Magnatec. I may be wrong but happy to be corrected :)
 

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Good find, but doesn't have enough for an oil change with a new filter and it is another tenner for an extra litre, pisses me off Castrol do this, so I don't buy their oils.
You can mix magnatec with other oils without issues and with the age of the f's and TF's you'd probably not notice any difference if you did :p
 

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The part where MGB281 states it is quieter might have something to do with the fact that they use a thicker base oil at the very end of the 10W40 grade (borderline 15W40 even), so less viscosity additives are necessary? That could explain why you hear less as thicker oil dampens impact more. It might also explain the 'clinging' marketing in part (relative to competition brands), I guess, as thicker oil drips down slower... I can also see why certain oils might be better for VVC engines, but I don't think Magnatec would've been around at that time, as dert stated. Nor would that engine be developed with Magnatec in mind, I think. If it would, the instruction booklet would be stating/screaming to use Magnatec exclusively and not just any 10W40, wouldn't it? If we assume there was some cooperation between Rover and Castrol, it would more likely be a GTX oil, I think. Anyway, that's all speculation.

Oils are very much about brand trustworthiness, I think. They try to make you feel good/secure/comfortable/<insert emotion here> with the packaging and their decades of experience, etc. The manufacturer has defined a specification. The specification states that some of X, Y and Z must be in certain quantities in the oil. If that oil would be more 'bad' than the OEM oil, there would be no guarantees from the manufacturer when engine damage occurs and the oil companies would be sued. So, I think that if a spec is on a bottle, it does suit that spec (or may exceed it at 1 or even 100%). Fun stuff to discuss, but only labs could give us the definitive conclusion on oils vs 'oils'.

If your instruction booklet says to use '10W40 semi-synthetic' then every ACEA A3/B4 rated oil will do. However, if you use cheap oil, expect to change it more frequently as it will probably dilute faster and will probably have less cleaning and anti-wear (extreme pressure) additives in it as well :) A used oil analysis will give you definitive answers as to how good your cheap oil is doing.

A lot of people mix oils, but I'm not one of them. Why? It's simple: You don't know the additives they used and you might get too much additive of a certain kind that makes your 'mix' even less effective vs. not mixing at all. And yes, I agree to think that you won't notice much (if any) difference in valve train chatter/behavior.
 

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What I have read is that the VVC is controlled by the ECU (which we all know)which amongst other parameters (water temp, revs etc) uses the oil viscosity, which is calculated by a known oils viscosity plotted against how it changes with temperature. The article went on to say that the VVC ECU is calibrated using the data from Magnatec 10/40 semi synthetic and that under no circumstances should a fully synthetic oil be used due to unwanted wear on the VVC mechanism.
The article also stated that all other versions of the K series can use semi or fully synthetic and either 14/40 or 5/40 grades. Since I have read all of this on the internet it must be true:rolleyes::oops:o_O
As for brand and price each to their own but since you can buy 8 litres for £34.10 which is not much more than 5 litres from most other sources ie Euro car parts triple QX £34.34 Halfords own brand £30.49 I am sure if I hunted there are other brands online at much lower cost, my wife has her car serviced by a local garage, we supply the Mercedes branded (Mobil?) oil which we buy online from a Mercedes dealer, sometimes as low as £18 for 5 litres
 

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Again some great debate and advice, which will hopefully help others, so that’s very positive. OP‘s opening question ‘any cheap offers anywhere….’ has sort of been answered, but I think his priority may revolve around price-is-king. Irrespective, he has gone to ground in terms of any acknowledgement or ‘like’, or thanks, despite returning to view most of the posts.
Perhaps it just (old-fashioned?) me, bit are we all wasting our time and experience? In my book yes, so I wouldn’t be adding anything further on this particular post.
Kind regards,
Austin.
 

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Again some great debate and advice, which will hopefully help others, so that’s very positive. OP‘s opening question ‘any cheap offers anywhere….’ has sort of been answered, but I think his priority may revolve around price-is-king. Irrespective, he has gone to ground in terms of any acknowledgement or ‘like’, or thanks, despite returning to view most of the posts.
Perhaps it just (old-fashioned?) me, bit are we all wasting our time and experience? In my book yes, so I wouldn’t be adding anything further on this particular post.
Kind regards,
Austin.

The only thing what annoys me with forums is where people come here for advice on a mechanical issue, get a whole load of advice on what the issues could be but then never come back to let everyone know if they ever got it sorted. However; if the Original Poster returns or not it doesn't bother me (apart from what I said earlier) as the information posted within the forum threads may help others somewhere down the line who may be looking to ask the same or similar question. I have regularly posted on social media links to threads with this forum where questions have been asked which I know have been answered on here so even this thread will be useful for people later in time :)
 
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