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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I麓m still struggling here chaps.
I've connected the white/purple wire at the fuel pump directly to the positive battery terminal. Nothing.
Does the immobiliser (which is also supect), also kill the earth/chassis connection?
 

Rover Lifestyle
Rover 200 Rover 600
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No, immobiliser does not cut of ground connection on fuel pump. If you connected 12V on white/purple wire on the connector for the fuel pump, you must be aware that you are holding ground wire not connected in that same connector? If that is the case, you need to make ground wire from the connector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
The plug is connected to the pump. I am applying the 12 volts through a "Scotchlok" connector.
The ignition is on, and the immobiliser apparently off. The engine turns over, but no fuel pump sound.
 

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MGF's x 5 MGTF's x 6, Rover 620Ti & Cortina Mk3
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Take the pump out, leave the fuel in the bowl on the bottom and trace wires from the motor to the connection block on the outer top of the unit. just in case you've used wrong wires previous. the reason for leaving the fuel in the bowl is the fuel lubricates the pump and if you try to run it without fuel it will seize virtually straight away. If the pump does not work when powered this way then as mentioned by Roverlike the "fuel pump is dead".

I've recently fitted (botched) a Ford Focus/Fiesta one into one of my TF's which had a duff fuel pump (you can pick them up for well under 拢15 on ebay. unfortunately the corrugated/convoluted pipe is a pain to remove as it becomes brittle and exceptionally tight on the pump end and its even more of a pain to find new to replace so if anyone know for any, approximately 16-18 inches long not from aliexpress or costing extortionate prices please let me know.

The pump works well but as I needed to botch the existing corrugated/convoluted pipe to a piece of mental pipe to extend two broken bits the fuel pump pressure keeps blowing the old pipe off the metal pipe, one positive of this though is my brother is becoming really proficient at removing and fitting the pipe. the next thing to be will involve my brother using his brake flaring tool to fit a bur onto the end of the metal pipe which should then stop the existing pipe popping itself off when priming due to the pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
So...........
All pipes and the connector removed. The retaining ring screwed off.
The top plate will not budge. Is it screwed in? I tried with a slim 300 mm crow bar to lift it. No joy.
what am I doing wrong?
 

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MGF's x 5 MGTF's x 6, Rover 620Ti & Cortina Mk3
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So...........
All pipes and the connector removed. The retaining ring screwed off.
The top plate will not budge. Is it screwed in? I tried with a slim 300 mm crow bar to lift it. No joy.
what am I doing wrong?
With the metal retaining ring unscrewed the unit should just pull out. However; if its never been removed they can be very tight to get out as there is a large rubber seal which the unit fits into to ensure an airtight seal with the tank and like anything untouched for a couple of decades they just seem to "glue" themselves into place. Try prising up slowly moving your mini crowbar around the outside rim of the unit, as you would do when opening a used tin of paint. Do not under ant circumstances try to lift from the fuel pipe inlet/outlet as these can be broken quite easily.
 

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1995 MGF Mpi
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There is a special tool available for undoing the locking ring, the F uses the same locking ring as a Land Rover Discovery 1, Fuel Pump Spanner, or you can make your own, or a crow bar will work in a pinch.

Do do not have to remove the rail behind the wind-breaker unless you have some sort of non factory set-up.
 

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MGF's x 5 MGTF's x 6, Rover 620Ti & Cortina Mk3
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Don't think the VW Caravelle fuel pump is the same, however; the Vauxhall Frontera fuel pump is the same, part number 76382 or 02SKV213
 

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MGF's x 5 MGTF's x 6, Rover 620Ti & Cortina Mk3
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Pretty straight forward to remove the T-bar cover, unbolt the wind break then remove the tonneau stud screws, open both doors and pull both seats forward, once you've done that pull the T-bar forward on both sides and rest on the back of the seat. the clips sometime come off with the T-bar and sometimes break, if they break the T-bar will fit back perfectly and its not even noticeable. Once the T-bar is off undo the two 10mm head bolts holding in the speaker bar in place and just move out of the way. access to pump should then be simple :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
So..........
The pump is out, and works fine with 12 volts direct to the pump.
Could it be the connector on the top cover that is the problem?
12 volts through a Scotchlok on the white/purple above the top cover gave no pump noise.
 
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