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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Quick little update, got the ecu and boost controller although not fitted yet as I need to add an extra wire to the connector to run the controller which I haven't worked out how to do exactly yet (electrickery isn't my strongest area). Still not got a gearbox mount as seemingly every 1.8 ZR in the Wrexham area is still on the road as they're certainly not in any of the breaker's yards, a fair few 1.4s though. I should have one by Wednesday though as I've resorted to getting one off ebay which cost more than I would have liked but at least it's fairly certain it'll be here soon and then I can actually get on with making a complete car again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Good news! I've finally got a gearbox mount that fits so that's in as are the engine steady bars so I now have an engine that is properly attached to the car. I also connected up the throttle cable, the aircon pipes (although I did snap a bolt on one of them) and tried to connect the clutch cable but it turns out the 1.4 one isn't quite long enough and despite a lot of fiddling I couldn't get it to fit right. I even resorted to cutting some of the rubber out of the bit that sits in the mount but, while I was able to get the cable onto the arm, it didn't return properly so the pedal just went to the floor. Now I've got to get hold of a new clutch cable as well as a few bolts and pipes to hopefully finish that off as well as actually putting the driveshafts and gear linkages in, refitting the ABS sensors, relocating the fan so I can fit the turbo, fitting the VVC front crossmember, wiring the boost controller to the ECU, sorting coolant and air piping to the turbo, fitting the charge cooler, finishing the piping for the fuel regulator, sorting out where the battery will go and then I'll be nearly done so not too much then :err:
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
I got the driveshafts mostly in today although the driver's side one needed a new outer CV boot and the joint isn't really wanting to go back on properly so I'll need to have a go at it with yet more hammering at some point. I also discovered that the passenger side hub bearing has decided to completely die at some point between it going on and now so that's going to need replacing at some point too. I managed to fix my clutch at least by putting one of the bits I cut off back on so it all seems to work now as it should. I then tried to change the gear linkages but someone's glued the gear knob on so I'll have to cut the stick and get hold of a new knob which is less than ideal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
So I sawed my knob off today which was very unpleasant but at least it meant I could get the old linkage out. I've now got the new linkages in and bolted up at the knob end but I'm needing a nut and bolt to replace the roll pin in the other end and also the bolt for the pivot bar so that's added to the list for when I next get down to the scrappy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
It is a momentus occassion as today I can finally say I have a car with a turbo that's actually attached to it's engine. I can also say that I have a car with no fan now but that's not the point. I did have to slightly rotate the intake housing as the wastegate actuator was hitting on the bell housing and I now have to reroute some of the coolant hoses due to them going across both the inlet and outlet of the intake housing meaning it'll be next to impossible to get any piping in there but I'll get to that when I get to it.

I may have taken off a bit more than the bolt I was intending when taking the fan off.


It's tight but it fits :grin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
I had hopefully my last trip to the scrappy today to pick up a few bolts, a speedo sensor and a bit of fuel pipe and now I have gears which can be selected from inside the car, a starter motor which is attached and wired up, a speedo that should hopefully work and a full fuel system that hopefully won't leak everywhere. All I need now to test start the engine (NA obviously at this stage) is to reconnect the ECU and stock airbox and attach the oil feed and return for the turbo so hopefully I should have a ZR with a running, low compression, NA 1.8 by the end of the weekend and then the ZT downpipe I bought should be here early next week so I can run the engine for more than a few seconds without melting everything in the engine bay and then I can get on to piping and all that fun stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Good news and bad news:

Good news is that I got hose clamps on the remaining coolant pipe and bolted up the oil feed and (after substantial amounts of swearing) return for the turbo so I'm very nearly ready to see if it will leak when I try turning it over.

Bad news is I then put about 1L of coolant in and this happened:

Coming out of the end of the thermostat so after yet more swearing I found the culprit, fair to say it's a bit deaded.


After that I decided to see if I'd have more luck with the oil so I stuck about 1L in again and let it drain through to the bottom to collect any bits that may have ended up in there when I was rebuilding it then drained it out, no leaks but I did find there was no copper washer on the sump plug so I carried on filling it until I ran out of oil so it's now at about 1/4 of the way up the dipstick. Don't have time to do any more today but I'll probably fill it up tomorrow and crank it over with the fuel pump relay out to check for leaks and get the oil all the way round for hopefully an actual fire up on monday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
More good news today as I actually got the car to start. I only ran it for maybe a second or 2 due to it not having any coolant and there being no oil in the gearbox but after a few "dry" runs with the fuel pump relay out I put it back in and primed the pump a few times then turned the key and it started straight up. It sounded like a bag of bolts but that's sort of expected as the oil didn't get a chance to work it's way all round the engine and there's literally no exhaust but hopefully it'll sound a lot better once I get the downpipe on so I can run it a bit longer to get the oil around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Got some PAS fluid in and filled the gearbox up so was able to run it for a bit longer so the oil actually got to everything so it just sounds like a car with no exhaust now which is good news I suppose. Unfortunately it did mean I found both the feed and return lines to the turbo were leaking so I cleaned them up and tightened them some more then ran it again after it had cooled down a bit and they don't seem to be leaking now but I won't know fully until I can get it to a point where I can run it more than 10-15 seconds at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
My thermostat seals turned up today so I started fitting them only to find after taking the old seal off that the housing itself had split as well. Fortunately I'd already got a spare thermostat housing from the scrappy so I put the new seals on that one and put all the piping back together and tried filling the coolant up again. This time I could actually get it to full although not without a small leak from the elbow that bolts onto the block so I'll need a new gasket for that but seeing as I'll need to redesign the cooling system anyway to water cool the turbo, I won't worry about it too much for now. One thing I do need to worry about is the clip which holds the fuel rail adapter in as it's decided it's far more fun to fly off all the time than actually do it's job so, seeing as it's been a c*** ever since I fitted the adapter, I've decided I'll go full bodge and put a hose clamp around it to stop the adapter popping out.

 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Well the hose clamp on the fuel rail adapter was a no go as it just squirted fuel everywhere so I'm going to have to make a new system to hold it down. I'm planning on cutting and drilling a couple of bits of sheet metal and bolting them together either side of the adapter to sandwich it in place. I got my downpipe today finally as well as the MTF94 for when I change the gearbox oil after a few miles. Unfortunately I forgot to get a gasket ready for the downpipe so I have to wait a bit for that but I've bolted it in place for now although the bolts I got are too long so I'll have to cut them down at some point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
I've been pretty busy with uni stuff recently so work on the car has somewhat slowed plus I had a few things to do on the Fiat but after spending a good few hours making my own fuel rail adapter holder only to have it still squirt fuel I resorted to just bending the standard one so that it wouldn't spin off and that seems to be holding now. I also got the gasket for the downpipe in so that's now fully attached and I was able to run the engine with my new air filter for a few minutes and run through the gears on axle stands and there seems to be no issues from the box which is a relief. I did start to have some smoke from the front of the engine and a burning plastic smell but I couldn't find where it was coming from. The piping for the intake turned up today as well so I test fitted it and, while it does need some trimming to make it all fit properly, it is very green at least.



Just need to cut a hole in the battery box to fit the filter in then plumb in the charge cooler to the Seicento radiator which should be turning up tomorrow then that's most of the engine bay stuff done other than the boost controller. After that I'll just need a new wheel bearing or more likely another scrapyard hub that's preferrably less destroyed than this one and an exhaust system that is the same diameter as the downpipe then I'll be able to drive it a bit and start fault finding and adding the finishing touches like, you know, having somewhere to actually put the battery now there's an air filter and a coolant reservoir where it used to be. I was planning on putting in the boot but there's still an engine in there :=p:
 

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Don't worry about uni, the car is more important haha.
Getting smoke and strange smells on a rebuilt engine is not unusual, as long as there is no strange noises or excessive smoke.
Anyway it's looking good, hurry up and get it done lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Ayy some actual progress for once! Got all the pipes trimmed down so they all fit properly and clamped them all together. I also took a hacksaw to the battery box to allow the filter pipe to come through the bottom, I'll probably make a proper enclosure for it at some point but I'm just trying to get it to work properly for now. I reset the idle control valve and started it up and it idled perfectly for about a minute and the the b****** fuel rail adapter came off again so I'm going to have to sort that again :banghead:. I'm getting to the point where I'm tempted to just glue it in and hope I never need to take it out again. I also picked up a new oil temp sensor as I'd broken the old one but unfortunately couldn't get hold of another hub due to all of the ZRs and 25s at the local scrappy having shot front left bearings so I'll probably just end up getting a new bearing and doing it properly once my next lot of loan comes in in January. Next job after the fuel clip is sorting the exhaust, I'll probably just cut and weld a flange onto the standard 1.4 exhaust for now until I can afford something a little more appropriate and then it'll be the charge cooler coolant system but not a lot will probably happen with it until I get some more money, now I'm starting to sound like a real project car owner :=p:.

All clamped together with the hose clamps which are far too big but the next size down was too small so what can you do.


I'm sure these offcuts will come in handy at some point.


Straight out the downpipe for maximum illegalness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
So a little more work done today, got the hub on with a new bearing in it and got the stuck abs sensor out with a big hammer so now the car can actually move under it's own power without threatening to have the wheel fall off. Unfortunately I also found out that it is definitely the fuel rail adapter that's leaking but the clip is still in place so I'm going to have to take it all apart and bend the clip even more to get some more pressure on it and also probably just stick a load of sealant on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
I think I may have finally sorted the fuel issue today, I bent the clip so that it barely fitted on so it's putting as much pressure on the adapter as possible, no leaks for the couple of minutes it was running but only time will tell. I also worked out what the smoke and burning smell was from which is the paint on the exhaust manifold, probably not my cleverest decision to just use regular engine paint rather than VHT but oh well, I'll most likely be heat wrapping it at some point anyway. I also made up this very nice looking little bracket to support the charge cooler and was going to make a similar one for the air filter but the 1st one used up all of the cutting discs I had for my dremel.


And here it is fitted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
I've been focusing on getting my other ZR ready for it's MOT which runs out on 12/12 which has been taking up most of my time but seeing as intermittent rain isn't exactly prime welding weather and the only thing I need to do is finish welding the exhaust, I decided I'd get on with a bit more on the turbo. I started fitting my battery relocation kit and so far I've got the main positive feed from the boot all in with the circuit breaker in postion to be mounted next to the battery. I can't really do the negative at the minute because I was going to use one of the seat mounts as an earth but currently there's an engine on top of them so depending on the weather tomorrow I might crack on with making the feeds from the new positive terminal up front to the fuse box and starter and mount the circuit breaker properly. I also whipped the standard exhaust off so I can use it as a template for the one I'm making for the NA ZR and at some point cut and weld the flange on so I can bolt it up to the downpipe to get it through it's MOT which is also due soon on 27/12.
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Well it's been a busy few weeks of working on the other MG to get it through it's MOT, fortunately it passed with the only advisories being the headlights are cloudy and the exhaust noise level is "just" acceptable >:). Now though, it's back to the turbo build so I got a little work done on the battery relocation so now it actually works. I ended up earthing it to one of the front seat mounts for now as I've still got an engine in the way at the back and then wired up the starter and fuse box to the positive teminal at the front. I did have a little issue where the immobiliser was stuck on so I took the fuse out for it and put it back in and that seemed to fix it. I've also got hold of some new ABS sensors so they'll probably go on tomorrow so I'll have a functioning speedo then I can get onto welding a flange onto the exhaust and reconnecting all of that.

Battery mounted very securely in the rear footwell for now.


Positive terminal in the front with the battery feed, starter and fuse box wires attached.


Terminal cover which adds 100 safety points.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Well today a great milestone was passed, I drove the car for the first time. Admittedly it was just a lap around the car park but hey that's much further than it's been before with this engine. I got the old exhaust mid and rear sections in so I could mark out how much I needed to cut out of the cat section and then took that off ready to be worked on tomorrow. I then fitted the new ABS sensors so the speedo does now work which is nice. I've had a slow puncture for a while on the rear left so I nipped it over the road to sainsbury's to fill it up and then stuck it on and went for a little drive around. I barely touched 2000rpm on my way round as I haven't got the boost controller in yet but there weren't any unexpected noises or feelings so that's a relief. there is a slight scraping noise coming from under the car but I think that's due to the current lack of flywheel covers as it seems to be directly linked to engine speed. It even tracks fairly straight which is surprising considering it's had 2 new hubs. I did have a couple of lights not working, the front left indicator and the rear left side and brake lights. I think the indicator may just be the bulb but I think there's something up with the wiring as the indicator light on the dash comes on whenever the brake or reverse lights go on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Got the boost controller half wired in last night and the vacuum pipe turned up today so I've plumbed that in. Unfortunately after running the engine for a bit and getting it up to temperature I gave it a few small revs and found that I got an alarming knocking noise at around 1700+rpm which wasn't there before so not sure why that's only made itself known now. Might be due to some boost actually going into the engine now that the nipple on the turbo isn't just going to atmosphere. Also the coolant leak from the elbow to block join has gotten worse so I think I'm going to have to sort that sooner rather than later. I also found out that the smoke is probably coming from the turbo oil feed line as it's currently wedged itself between the exhaust manifold flange and the inlet housing.
 
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