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K-series into a Metro

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22K views 27 replies 12 participants last post by  col  
M
#1 ·
Just wondering if anyone on here has undertaken this transplant and, if so, what they thought of it.

I have a couple of questions if people would like to help:

1. Which engine is the best to source? Is it the 1.8 VVC from the MGZR? Or one from an MG TF? or are they the same? I have been told not to use the VVC, but surely they are better??

2. Doed the engine drop straight in, or are some mounting modifications needed?

3. Which gearbox do I need to fit and what model is that from?

4. I read the reyland motorsport site that they used an MGF rad. Just wondering if this is a pain to fit?

5. I know they also do the AP 4 pot conversion, but will this fit behind some standard MGF wheel, or do I need to get the compomotives?

Basically, I am trying to do this as a budget car. However, I will be using it as my every day car so i need to make it as reliable as possible.

Any other points that you can think of would be of great assistance.

 
R
#2 ·
sorry, no info for you, but...


I don't think 'cheap' and 'reliable' are two words you can put together with doing this amount of work to a car. If they are your priorities, are you not better off just buying a standard Vi/ZR etc? The insurance would probably be less for a start.
 
I
#3 ·
The Rover Metro/100 was fitted with a K series engine. The older Austin Metro may have some visual similarities but I don't think the engine bay will accomodate the K. Some people think the two Metros are not much different apart from the engine and some body styling. I've had both and they drive differently and have a completely different feel to them in terms of ride quality, steering and solidity.
 
I
#6 ·
Its fairly straight forward on a k-series metro with a MPI GTI base car. It drops straight in if you use the r65 gearbox. The pg1 gearbox will go in but it is heavier and difficult to fit.

If you want mk1 or mk2 styling you can get the engine to fit but you are better off using a k-series base car and modding the panels. I have done this. The subframe has to move forward by about 1/2inch and the back of the front valance needs to be cut away.

There are alot of 1800 Metros out there, so it may be worth finding one already done.
 
M
#7 ·
Ivantate said:
Its fairly straight forward on a k-series metro with a MPI GTI base car. It drops straight in if you use the r65 gearbox. The pg1 gearbox will go in but it is heavier and difficult to fit.

If you want mk1 or mk2 styling you can get the engine to fit but you are better off using a k-series base car and modding the panels. I have done this. The subframe has to move forward by about 1/2inch and the back of the front valance needs to be cut away.

There are alot of 1800 Metros out there, so it may be worth finding one already done.
Click to expand...
Not sure what you meant there, am i best off with a rover 100 as a base model then? Or did they do a Kseries equipped Rover Metro?
 
M
#9 ·
I don't want a turbo mate, me and turbos dont mix well, lol.

Ti Rich said:
If it's a Mk 3 1989 or a Rover 100 then they were all kitted with K series engines as standard (unless it is a diesel).
Click to expand...
Great stuff. I'm looking at something like a J plate '92 model. Ideally with a shagged engine so i can just tear it out.

Now, I gotta find a 1800 K-series engine and loom
 
T
#10 ·
Find a Metro GTI as a starting point as these have better suspension and stoppers as standrad. There are two versions. Early GTi's (89-92) have a single point injection 1.4L Twin Cam engine (90 BHP). Later cars, generally about 92 onwards i think, have a Multipoint injection system that gives about 103 BHP.

Both these can be tuned simply to about 120BHP with the normal bolt ons.

There have been lots of converions to 1.8L and it makes for a very quick car!!!!

I would go for a Multi-point injection car if possible as the loom will be the same as the 1.8 - i think.
 
C
#11 ·
Rob said:
sorry, no info for you, but...


I don't think 'cheap' and 'reliable' are two words you can put together with doing this amount of work to a car. If they are your priorities, are you not better off just buying a standard Vi/ZR etc? The insurance would probably be less for a start.
Click to expand...
hows that like? i ran my 1991 vvc metro gti for 9 months while my BRM sat in the drive and it never failed once. and i kicked the living **** out of it for that time.

my insurance was on a par with a vi, cheaper than my brm anyway.

great conversion imo.


Col
 
C
#14 ·
1. Defo use a vvc, although it will need rewired. If you buy a mpi Metro Gti you can fit a std 1.8 as a straight replacement. Same ecu etc.

2. Straight in, you will need to use the metro's original off side mount tho.

3. I'd go for a R65u from a Mk3 rover 216, this is a stronger box over the std gti box. I killed 2 boxes at track nights.

4. no idea, but the std metro radiator worked fine for me.

5. no, the ap calipers need the 16" wheels from the mgf trophy (or similar) this wont fit on a metro without some modification to the body work. Would be sweet as tho... Roverdose used to do a 282mm disc conversion using the std mpi caliper (same as the mgf) wiith discs from a rover 820 vittesse.


a few on here have done this, do a search, all have been slightly different.
there are lots of other things to concider but its all in here somewhere ;)


HTH


Col
 
J
#18 ·
Hi, I've had a few 1.8 metros and the VVC is definately the one to go for - the conversion will cost around a grand for the engine and other bits and bobs but it's definately worth it as i managed to beat a 13k Supercharged Saxo around the track and from a standing start in a VVC Metro that cost little over 1/10th the price of the saxo.

The engne will drop straight in and will mate up to the standard gearbox - many people pop a 216 box in as it's meant to be a little stronger than the metro box.

The best car to start with is a late model rover metro GTi Mpi, (k-m reg) but finding one that hasn't rusted away now is very hard - You may also want to consider a late model Rover 100 (p-r reg) as these should also be mpi (multi point injection - meaning you don't have to change the fuel pump for the conversion) obviously the later 100s wll have less rust but wou will need to fit front shock absorbers and anti roll bars to get close to the metro gti spec.

Also you need to budget for suspension lowering/individualising, decent pads & discs aswell as some sticky tyres (hard to find in the 13inch fitment) or some aftermarket alloys - this will make sure the car will stop and handle safely as with the standard set-up you are likely to crash with 160bhp under the bonnet.

If you need any more advice - sign up to the metropower site there are a couple of people on ther selling 1.8 metros atm.

http://www.metropower.co.uk/
 
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