Regarding the so-called reset, what this does is reset the throttle position sensor (ie TPS ). It is only one of many potential solutions) The TPS may still not be right if 1. It is faulty and 2. The physical butterfly valve is not open at an actual 4 degrees when the engine is off, especially if the throttle adjuster screw has been played with (this adjusts the extent the valve is open [number of degrees in the vertical] at any point when the accelerator is pressed.). You may get lucky but the truth is you are adjusting one variable (TPS) whereas there are two (TPS and throttle adjuster screw). In addition, there are a number of physical components that be wrong - TPS, IACV, vacuum pipe, accelerator cable....).
In my case, I ended up replacing many sensors (including IACV and TPS but also Cam and MAP sensors)) but the key cause of the problem was that the throttle adjuster screw was not correctly set by the factory (I had replaced the 48mm throttle body with a new 52mm one and the idling was never right from square one).
I regularly recommend PScan (I am not on commission!) because it outputs many variables (including TPS position by degrees and number of steps per IACV), both key variables in getting the idling 1. Idling at circa 1200rpm at cold and 2. Closer to or on 875rpm at hot idle (with aircon off). 3. From speed to stop, ensuring that the rpm drops steadily down to 875 rpm at standstill.
Pscan would have saved me a lot of wasted time, endless frustration and saved me much money if I had had it in the first place. I do not have access to Testbook so for me Pscan is the only solution.