Right, after a load of threads asking the same thing I thought I might write a guide as I need to dodge doing some revision for at least another hour... Ill update the thread over the next week with other input that comes in. As well as the issues at the bottom.
Firstly. All of this requires a jack, axle stands and an afternoon of your time if you haven't done it before. For putting springs onto shocks you will need a decent set of spring compressors, available from Halfrauds for not much more than £15. Don't forget a good socket set, breaker bar or big torque wrench, WD40/Penetrating spray and a 6mm Alan Key.
Secondly What car do you have?
If you have a 200/25/25GTi/BRM/Vi...
Now, to lower your car...
I WANT TO GO:
20/25mm: Looks wise this isnt great, not much of a visible difference on 17''s to be honest. Best off doing this on 15''s. Some difference on 16''s (search for Reaper's 25 if you want some pictures). Best option to do this is to buy a whole set of MG ZR (ANY MODEL EXCEPT THE DIESEL) Struts. This will include the shock absorber + spring. Costs around £100 from Ebay/Scrappie. Bolt on bolt off, no spring compressors needed.
IMO best method for a small drop, ZR shocks make a massive difference to stiffness.
30mm: This is an annoying drop to achieve. Progressive springs are available for the 25/200 to reach this on existing shocks which WILL NOT FALL OUT OF THE CUPS. This enables you to pass your lovely MOT and maintain a safe car without risking others live by ghetto cable tying springs in. These progressively wound springs will maintain the ride quality of 25/200 long shocks while giving a nice drop. (Not much increase on handling however, still a good bit of body roll).
Springs as-such will require spring compressors to take the existing springs off. Rear ones can be done easily by jacking them up while sitting in the hubs (you'll see what I mean when you come to do it) fronts are a bit of a pain though.
Not sure about forum rules, PM me/edit this off if not not acceptable linking to another site (even if its just an example).
Springs a-such are available here http://www.europerformance.co.uk/pages/products/product_info.mhtml?product=3771502
40mm: Common drop. Gives great looks and a good handling boost. To do this you will require short shocks, end of. Lowering springs for this drop will just fall out of the cups when the car is jacked up, failing the MOT and giving you a very dangerous car to drive. DONT do it, if you crash into someone then, well, you wont be in a good situation....
Options available are ZR (most common and cheapest) or After market short shocks.
http://www.europerformance.co.uk/pages/products/product_info.mhtml?product=640997
With these being around £200 pounds, they certainly aren't cheap. Hence why most opt for the ZR strut route.
Combined with a set of 20mm ZR lowering springs to achieve a total drop of 40mm.
http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/237_1...nsion/mg_zr_-_x_power_lowering_spring_kit.htm
50/60mm: Best looks, upon 17''s the wheel meets wheel arch leaving a small (1cmish) gap. As above, short shocks will be needed. Combine this with a larger drop ZR lowering spring to give the bigger total drop.
Avo reds provide a big drop (60mm) (with Pi's providing a smaller drop(50mm)). However, the drop Avo reds provide is not always the most even. The back tends to drop more than the front, apparently however this has been sorted in recent designs. Removing the back seats/taking weight out the back sorts this, but will be impractical/stupid for some.
http://www.europerformance.co.uk/pages/products/product_info.mhtml?product=3668034
Site claims 35mm. Works about to about 40mm once they have settled. Best to search the forum for personal opinion to see what best brand spring (comfort/stiffness etc) suits you at this point.
60mm+: For this coilovers are needed. Prices start at around £500, going up to just shy of £1000 for a set of GAZ Golds. If you are after this kind of drop and setup you can buy new, or wait around and find a bargain second hand.
Ebay is a great source, find a nice set and pay for them to be manufacture reconditioned. This will provide you with AS NEW coilies for a budget price.
However the real reason for coilovers is the versatility. Not only can you change the ride hight, but also the dampening rate, providing a very stiff, or (if for some sick reason you want) somewhat more gentle ride. Perfect for track day cars, moving between a fast and slow track for example.
IF YOU HAVE A MG ZR LOOK HERE!
Your car, as standard (on ALL) models will be 20/25mmish (arguable) lower, running short shocks.
To drop the car more, read as above. Ignore the fact you'll need to buy short shocks however, as well as lowering below 30mm, as this will not apply.
Hope this helps all of ya!
Driveshaft Risks
There is no, once you go past XXmm your driveshafts will go pop rule. Your generally perfectly safe lowering 30mm past standard. Past this you run the risk of leaky driveshaft seals.
The risks are, well, it might happen it might not. My cars been lowered 60mm for the last 4 months with no troubles. Friends with their 200's have had no issues either.
Don't come back and whine when you slam your car 70+mm and find your drive shafts are gushing oil however, not my responsibility...
Camber
Camber should be perfectly fine up to 60mmish. However, GO GET YOUR ALIGNMENT CHECKED, as mine was totally off after lowering. So are many others, doesn't cost alot. Shouldn't cost much over 50 pounds, and gives you some extra peace of mind and no tracking problems! Ive noticed increase wear on the insides of my tyres so I imagine theres a bit of (positive?) camber. Increased tyre wear overall will occur, as you'll end up taking roundabouts a bit faster as well as other corners, putting more strain on your tyres.
Negative camber plates are available online and to be custom made. If your aiming for a track car setup your looking at, at least -2 degrees of negative, sometimes more. Best to ask a speciliast however, this is just what ive read up on. Rovertech is a goldmine of information for tracking your car.
To add:
Rubbing on load/full lock. Lowering Dervs. Pics on drops. Make links a bit nicer...
Firstly. All of this requires a jack, axle stands and an afternoon of your time if you haven't done it before. For putting springs onto shocks you will need a decent set of spring compressors, available from Halfrauds for not much more than £15. Don't forget a good socket set, breaker bar or big torque wrench, WD40/Penetrating spray and a 6mm Alan Key.
Secondly What car do you have?
If you have a 200/25/25GTi/BRM/Vi...
Now, to lower your car...
I WANT TO GO:
20/25mm: Looks wise this isnt great, not much of a visible difference on 17''s to be honest. Best off doing this on 15''s. Some difference on 16''s (search for Reaper's 25 if you want some pictures). Best option to do this is to buy a whole set of MG ZR (ANY MODEL EXCEPT THE DIESEL) Struts. This will include the shock absorber + spring. Costs around £100 from Ebay/Scrappie. Bolt on bolt off, no spring compressors needed.
IMO best method for a small drop, ZR shocks make a massive difference to stiffness.
30mm: This is an annoying drop to achieve. Progressive springs are available for the 25/200 to reach this on existing shocks which WILL NOT FALL OUT OF THE CUPS. This enables you to pass your lovely MOT and maintain a safe car without risking others live by ghetto cable tying springs in. These progressively wound springs will maintain the ride quality of 25/200 long shocks while giving a nice drop. (Not much increase on handling however, still a good bit of body roll).
Springs as-such will require spring compressors to take the existing springs off. Rear ones can be done easily by jacking them up while sitting in the hubs (you'll see what I mean when you come to do it) fronts are a bit of a pain though.
Not sure about forum rules, PM me/edit this off if not not acceptable linking to another site (even if its just an example).
Springs a-such are available here http://www.europerformance.co.uk/pages/products/product_info.mhtml?product=3771502
40mm: Common drop. Gives great looks and a good handling boost. To do this you will require short shocks, end of. Lowering springs for this drop will just fall out of the cups when the car is jacked up, failing the MOT and giving you a very dangerous car to drive. DONT do it, if you crash into someone then, well, you wont be in a good situation....
Options available are ZR (most common and cheapest) or After market short shocks.
http://www.europerformance.co.uk/pages/products/product_info.mhtml?product=640997
With these being around £200 pounds, they certainly aren't cheap. Hence why most opt for the ZR strut route.
Combined with a set of 20mm ZR lowering springs to achieve a total drop of 40mm.
http://www.ptp-ltd.co.uk/shop/237_1...nsion/mg_zr_-_x_power_lowering_spring_kit.htm
50/60mm: Best looks, upon 17''s the wheel meets wheel arch leaving a small (1cmish) gap. As above, short shocks will be needed. Combine this with a larger drop ZR lowering spring to give the bigger total drop.
Avo reds provide a big drop (60mm) (with Pi's providing a smaller drop(50mm)). However, the drop Avo reds provide is not always the most even. The back tends to drop more than the front, apparently however this has been sorted in recent designs. Removing the back seats/taking weight out the back sorts this, but will be impractical/stupid for some.
http://www.europerformance.co.uk/pages/products/product_info.mhtml?product=3668034
Site claims 35mm. Works about to about 40mm once they have settled. Best to search the forum for personal opinion to see what best brand spring (comfort/stiffness etc) suits you at this point.
60mm+: For this coilovers are needed. Prices start at around £500, going up to just shy of £1000 for a set of GAZ Golds. If you are after this kind of drop and setup you can buy new, or wait around and find a bargain second hand.
Ebay is a great source, find a nice set and pay for them to be manufacture reconditioned. This will provide you with AS NEW coilies for a budget price.
However the real reason for coilovers is the versatility. Not only can you change the ride hight, but also the dampening rate, providing a very stiff, or (if for some sick reason you want) somewhat more gentle ride. Perfect for track day cars, moving between a fast and slow track for example.
IF YOU HAVE A MG ZR LOOK HERE!
Your car, as standard (on ALL) models will be 20/25mmish (arguable) lower, running short shocks.
To drop the car more, read as above. Ignore the fact you'll need to buy short shocks however, as well as lowering below 30mm, as this will not apply.
Hope this helps all of ya!
Driveshaft Risks
There is no, once you go past XXmm your driveshafts will go pop rule. Your generally perfectly safe lowering 30mm past standard. Past this you run the risk of leaky driveshaft seals.
The risks are, well, it might happen it might not. My cars been lowered 60mm for the last 4 months with no troubles. Friends with their 200's have had no issues either.
Don't come back and whine when you slam your car 70+mm and find your drive shafts are gushing oil however, not my responsibility...
Camber
Camber should be perfectly fine up to 60mmish. However, GO GET YOUR ALIGNMENT CHECKED, as mine was totally off after lowering. So are many others, doesn't cost alot. Shouldn't cost much over 50 pounds, and gives you some extra peace of mind and no tracking problems! Ive noticed increase wear on the insides of my tyres so I imagine theres a bit of (positive?) camber. Increased tyre wear overall will occur, as you'll end up taking roundabouts a bit faster as well as other corners, putting more strain on your tyres.
Negative camber plates are available online and to be custom made. If your aiming for a track car setup your looking at, at least -2 degrees of negative, sometimes more. Best to ask a speciliast however, this is just what ive read up on. Rovertech is a goldmine of information for tracking your car.
To add:
Rubbing on load/full lock. Lowering Dervs. Pics on drops. Make links a bit nicer...
