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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am in desperate need of fitting the trophy exhaust I purchased weeks ago now. The only thing stopping me is I had a quick peeky under the car and the bolts are rusted. I don't mean rusted, I mean REALLY rusted - as in there is barely any dictinction betweem the flange and 3 nuts / bolts anymore, its more just 1 huge piece of rust!

As much as it kills me when the cat is fine I guess I will just have to take an angle grinder to it and chop it off. Has anyone else had to do this and if so where did you purchase your new cat from? Not really bothered if new or second hand, just as long as it has bolts on it which still have a thread on them! :slap:
 

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I am in desperate need of fitting the trophy exhaust I purchased weeks ago now. The only thing stopping me is I had a quick peeky under the car and the bolts are rusted. I don't mean rusted, I mean REALLY rusted - as in there is barely any dictinction betweem the flange and 3 nuts / bolts anymore, its more just 1 huge piece of rust!

As much as it kills me when the cat is fine I guess I will just have to take an angle grinder to it and chop it off. Has anyone else had to do this and if so where did you purchase your new cat from? Not really bothered if new or second hand, just as long as it has bolts on it which still have a thread on them! :slap:
You should be able to chop/grind etc, remove cat, then drill new holes and use bigger, better nuts and bolts? Thats what happened to mine.

I got a cat of ebay for 130 quid. I think it decent quality too. I have it in my shed waiting for my next MOT :lol:
 

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No need to replace the cat. Just grind the nuts off and then drill out the studs from the cat and replace with nuts & bolts. Be warned the studs will be hard though so they are not the easiest to drill out.
New cats are £200+
Problem with a used on is that unless is is off a relatively new car then it will have rusty studs too, as they rust remarkably quickly.
I took the cat of my old TF when it was 12 months old, and even then I only just managed to get the nuts undone (using a large breaker bar on the socket and loads of release oil). This is why I fitted MS cat saver nuts to my current TF just days after it was delivered ;)
 

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No need to replace the cat. Just grind the nuts off and then drill out the studs from the cat and replace with nuts & bolts. Be warned the studs will be hard though so they are not the easiest to drill out.
New cats are £200+
Problem with a used on is that unless is is off a relatively new car then it will have rusty studs too, as they rust remarkably quickly.
I took the cat of my old TF when it was 12 months old, and even then I only just managed to get the nuts undone (using a large breaker bar on the socket and loads of release oil). This is why I fitted MS cat saver nuts to my current TF just days after it was delivered ;)
Ones off Ebay were brand new. Guy had a batch of them.

If oyu have an early, pre-2000 F, then 90 quid brand new http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BRAND-NEW-MGF...ryZ10414QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Or if later F, then 150 quid, http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-MGF-TF-CA...ryZ10414QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Dunno what they are like thoguh, but the seller has good history
 

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i have the pre 2000 cats coming out my ears.... not literally of coarse!!

£115.00 we have been selling them for, but i could discount that price for supporters!

As for the grinding the old nuts off, if they are studs you should only need to grind the nut side off, as the other side is the stud head. get it in a vice and use a drift and a big hammer. Don't bother fannying about drilling them out, you'll bethere forever.

Replace with galvanised or better nuts and bolts. I used copper bolts on mine, they are slightly softer at first but the threads are less likely to corrode to the stud!
 

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Posh word for a bloody big punch :D

And I couldn't drift mine out even when I had the flange nicely supported on the vice anvil and had drilled pilot holes through them.
 

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You need to punch them out the right way. The original studs are very similar to wheel studs in the way they are fitted. They have a tappered spline section under the head to hold them in the flange, so can only be drifted out from the opposite way from having been pushed in. Or put simply they will have to be knocked in towards cats centre.:)
 

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D'oh obvious wasn't it:slap: , was thinking about when I'd done mine and had ground the heads off first. Just had these visions of someone haveing their cat stood up on the vice trying to hammer the studs on through the tapper:doh: . Fortunately when I did mine the tapper let go quite easily, guess I was lucky. Was rather worried about haveing to hit the cat about too much and damageing it being as they're expensive.:err:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I probably will look at getting a de-cat as long as it gets through the MOT. So just to get this straight, as long as I hammer towards the stud head, and not the stub thread it will be realtively (!!!!???) easy? I'll probably pop the decat on, then get the cat prepped just in case I need it back on for MOT...

Cheers guys!
 

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On mine the cat nuts on the inlet side were quite easy because they get less road spray. Remove the cat and backbox in one piece, then you can get a bit more 'action' onto the other side when its on the bench.

If you can't drift the studs out Rob, send me a pm, I've got a nice slow pillar drill ;)
 
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