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Discussion Starter #1
As above.
How can you check if you have ABS? I'm not willing to go stamping on the brakes everywhere just to check!
 

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hi stiff

open the bonnet and look on the shelf on the left side (opposite the battery). If there is a largish unit with hydraulic hoses coming out/in then that will be the abs unit. If you have a nice usefull shelf for a bag of Maguiars cleaning materials, then you have no abs.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hi stiff

open the bonnet and look on the shelf on the left side (opposite the battery). If there is a largish unit with hydraulic hoses coming out/in then that will be the abs unit. If you have a nice usefull shelf for a bag of Maguiars cleaning materials, then you have no abs.
Cheers Sprinter. I'll have a look when I get home. :broon:
 

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Yep it's really obvious when you look under the bonnet. I'm pretty sure that the ABS light is standard on most (if not all) F/TF's regardless of whether they have ABS or not. If you don't have ABS they are, of course, redundant.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yep it's really obvious when you look under the bonnet. I'm pretty sure that the ABS light is standard on most (if not all) F/TF's regardless of whether they have ABS or not. If you don't have ABS they are, of course, redundant.
I have a fault code on my ECU that says something is wrong with my A/C. I don't have A/C. :_poke:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sounds like your ECU thinks 'some bugger's nicked it'. Can't help you with that I'm afraid. :err:
At the last waterman, I think about 3/4 cars thought that someoen had stolen their ari con. I think its MGR being cheap and not telling the ECU that its missing.
 

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From Rob's web site:

"Sprint SE (July, 2002), based upon the TF 135 and 160 variants. The sprint SE had a high specification trim from the outset, consisting of Gunsmoke Alcantara and black leather seats, Smokestone fascia and door panels, a coloured hood, chrome pack and front fog lights. On TF 135 models, Sports Pack 2 (ABS, uprated 304mm front disc brakes and callipers and 16" eleven-spoke alloy wheels – already standard on the TF 160) was specified as standard equipment. Only 600 MG TF Sprint models were said to have been produced in the five colour available combinations: Solar Red, XPower Grey, Starlight Silver, Le Mans Green and Trophy Blue."

So if you have a Sprint 135, you have ABS.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I looked for the pump last night. I do have ABS. I've just never had it cut in. Does that make it good or bad? :errx2:
 

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I looked for the pump last night. I do have ABS. I've just never had it cut in. Does that make it good or bad? :errx2:
Hi stiff - looks like you need a bigger right leg :tic:

If the dash light works then it should test the system and then go out when first starting the car.

If you haven't had the abs operate then it could be because you have a good level of mechanical sympathy and drive properly :D

Although ABS is a 'safety' aid not a 'performance' aid, you should be fairly easy to get it to kick in on wet roads (under controlled conditions of course). Get to 50 mph, take out of gear, stamp on the pedal as hard as you can and leave it stamped. Modern abs systems don't make as much fuss as earlier ones used to but you should feel it operating.
 

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When turning the ignition on, the ABS light should come on for upto 3 seconds and go out.
If it does not go out it is either a modulator/pump fault, or a wiring/earth fault.
If the light goes out, but then after moving more than 5 mph it comes back on and stays on it is either a reluctor ring (cracked/damaged/worn) or a sensor (incorrect reading).
If the light goes out then does not come on until a bump in the road or similar, or the light flicks on or off intermittently it should be diagnosed by computer as either there is a damaged/corroded wire to sensor or modulator.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi stiff - looks like you need a bigger right leg :tic:

If the dash light works then it should test the system and then go out when first starting the car.

If you haven't had the abs operate then it could be because you have a good level of mechanical sympathy and drive properly :D

Although ABS is a 'safety' aid not a 'performance' aid, you should be fairly easy to get it to kick in on wet roads (under controlled conditions of course). Get to 50 mph, take out of gear, stamp on the pedal as hard as you can and leave it stamped. Modern abs systems don't make as much fuss as earlier ones used to but you should feel it operating.
I've tried that before. Not at 50mph, more like 30mph. It didn't kick in. One day I'll try and get it to kick in, but unitll then, my brakes work brilliantly. :D

When turning the ignition on, the ABS light should come on for upto 3 seconds and go out.
If it does not go out it is either a modulator/pump fault, or a wiring/earth fault.
If the light goes out, but then after moving more than 5 mph it comes back on and stays on it is either a reluctor ring (cracked/damaged/worn) or a sensor (incorrect reading).
If the light goes out then does not come on until a bump in the road or similar, or the light flicks on or off intermittently it should be diagnosed by computer as either there is a damaged/corroded wire to sensor or modulator.

Hope this helps.
Cool! Cheers for that! :broon:
 

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Get to 50 mph, take out of gear, stamp on the pedal as hard as you can and leave it stamped.
Of course, what sprinter hasn't said is if you skid off the road into a ditch and burst into flames then your ABS is not working and should be checked. :bgrin2: I would rather try it at low speed, on gravel.
 

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I've tried that before. Not at 50mph, more like 30mph. It didn't kick in. One day I'll try and get it to kick in, but unitll then, my brakes work brilliantly.
stiff, I don't have abs on my TF135 and my brakes don't lock up under normal driving so I'm not surprised that your abs doesn't either. As I said, seems like you are driving properly.

Still worth checking what kris posted and being brutal with your car at some stage just to make sure it is all working before it's needed.

Had abs on my previous F and I only heard it work a couple of times in 3 years - generally when I drove like a prat.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
stiff, I don't have abs on my TF135 and my brakes don't lock up under normal driving so I'm not surprised that your abs doesn't either. As I said, seems like you are driving properly.
Why, thank you! :D
When its wet I'll give it a go. I know a road or too that would be ideal. I don't wnt to do it in the dry incase its broken, and I end up with flat spots on my tyres :irked:
 

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Of course, what sprinter hasn't said is if you skid off the road into a ditch and burst into flames then your ABS is not working and should be checked. :bgrin2: I would rather try it at low speed, on gravel.

gravel (and sand or snow) builds up a small wall in front of the tyres and can affect the operation of abs systems. Fairly well documented but not easy to track down. That's why it is possible to manually outbrake an abs system on snow. Not so easy to beat it on ice or wet roads of course.

But your point was well made.

"Don't try this at home folks.

All drivers are professionals, in well maintained vehicles and closed circuits"

Or is that only at the bottom of Susuki bike ads during MotoGP programs?
 
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