try a limited slip diff into the gearbox, they do make a difference
all you can do is control the traction slip , if it happens into a bend dont just stop the accelerator feather it on and of till control is regained , from a standing start just more clutch slip to bring the inertia down to a control level
Paul D

 

Toyo t1r are the recommended tyres if I recall correctly or better still enjoy the rear end sliding.

 

Quaife LSD and decent tyres with soft rubber should eliminate that.

 

Winter tyres?

 

Traction Control

 

manual (me) or fitting a mechanism to do it for me?

 

Limited slip diff will not increase traction. It will only stop one wheel spinning in relation to the other.

 

Well, I can tell you from direct experience (our Trophy 160 has one fitted), that traction is much improved - not easy to spin the wheels now, even with a slightly more powerful engine and giving it full beans.

It has stopped the old wheel spin dead in its tracks - so yes, I'd say it is a form of traction control.

 

Thats because it doesn't have enough torque to pull the skin off custard with one fitted. You have just reduced the wheels to the lower denominator.

 

A couple of 25 Kg bags of sand in the boot may help...

 

I gotta agree with Chris.. LSD and tyres will help.. An LSD will help even when pulling away from a standing start..

I went for the cheap option of a type A Torsen... And have got Federal 595s.. Poor mans 888s..

 

I would focus on the contact area with the road first - if that has poor grip, all the other more expensive measures will still be limited by the weakest link which sounds like the tyres.

I had 235 bhp going on the flywheel and even with old standard Eagle tyres, hardly ever suffered from traction problems. If I launched hard, the clutch would typically have some slip, while the tyres slipped for maybe half a second.

 

Yeah.. i agree an LSD would help... i cant fault the tyres really... it was over 6000 RPM in first gear on a wet road, from standing start... it was fun... because i knew there was no way the tyres would transmit that energy the Trophy engine was trying to give.. and the back end weave is just good to experience and control, especially if you havent done it on purpose before ( unlike me, who was playing )

its unlikely that i will ever have to do it on purpose, like a track day for example...

i am interested though in how folks address the problem of wheel slip caused by having more power than grip... and is why i posted... i think its an interesting topic for discussion and input.....

a track day scenario isnt the same as everyday driving, but it has relation and solutions.

1. i see an LSD as being important... because any rear wheel grip is better than none..

2. i see tyre composition as being important, but i am not sure a softer or harder tyre or different tread pattern is the solution for everyday ... since it might be a compromise that only fits one circumstance...

3. i see the easiest way to keep grip... is not to dump the clutch in low gear at high revs...

with ice and snow on its way... i think the topic highlights circumstances we will all face if we drive our MG`s the coming months...

 

with ice and snow on its way... i think the topic highlights circumstances we will all face if we drive our MG`s the coming months...

Was going to suggest "move somewhere warmer".

 

As I understand it there are two basic methods of automatic traction control:-

1. Sensing wheel slip and reducing engine power via the ECU

2. Sensing wheel slip and applying the brakes

Or a combination of both the above.

I think the second is the cheapo method.

Even cheaper is using the driver's brain and his right foot! :bgrin:

 

Thats a neat piece of kit MGFMania, i think..

For an F i see about a thou price... for the RLTC and the Wheel Sensors

is there anyone with a road going F using it who can comment more? for example whats it like on an every day use MG... whats it like coping with ice... etc..

i am interested, because i have a Vectis in mind, using a spare Trophy i have, as a doner... and the Vectis will be a lower weight... so traction is an important thing...

 

Expensive to fit if you do not already have ABS

We've had RLTC on our MX-5 BBR Turbo for 8 years and it works on ice and fresh snow perfectly...unlike ABS

 

"it was over 6000 RPM in first gear on a wet road, from standing start... it was fun... because i knew there was no way the tyres would transmit that energy"

The Racelogic system seems to reduce the revs to a point where the wheels can grip, something that we can do anyway .

I think that a wet road and 6000rpm in first clarifies the question, nothing street legal is going to cope with that - don't see that there is a problem to be fixed to be honest

 

"it was over 6000 RPM in first gear on a wet road, from standing start... it was fun... because i knew there was no way the tyres would transmit that energy"

I think that a wet road and 6000rpm in first clarifies the question, nothing street legal is going to cope with that - don't see that there is a problem to be fixed to be honest

i gave the example to raise interest ... and i qualified it - if you read the posts....

its about traction control.... not me being a silly bugger... i guess it depends if one has a problem to fix...


i change gear from fifth to second sometimes.. because i can... and i use the clutch as a traction control.. I have just bought a slick shift kit... to fit to the Trophy, to evaluate it, for if i decide to go ahead and build a Vectis.. using the k series engine...

If one has a light rear wheel drive car.. like an elise... ( which used the K series ) or a Caterham ( which used the K series ) then its relevant to MGF /TF Traction Control...

being heavy footed... wasnt the title of the topic....



i am interested in anything that can aid that...

 

When MGFMania started selling Glass HRW Panels in 2008 MazMania WAS a RaceLogic dealer, didn't promote it to MG owners as Brown & Gammons were also dealers - wonder IF they fitted any to MGF/TF's

ALL V8 engined Rover 75's & ZT's were fitted with a 'torque reduction' version of RLTC - MG Rover did not think it appropriate to sell a spitting and popping car!

Didn't bother fitting it to our '97 VVC because until 13th January 2010 we only used it for shows and left the show stand in it

Yes, RLTC cuts injection or spark when slip is detected, but cuts on a progressive scale. Using ABS sensors it measures wheel rotation 40 (depending on sensor teeth) times per revolution, by measuring all 4 wheels it allows for cornering rotation

When TC was banned from F1 in 2008 Kimi Reikonen, current champion, whent off 3 times on the first lap - so much for 'If you wanna win get a Finn'

It is alleged that the KERS in the Red Bull's ARE effectively TC...

 

ALL V8 engined Rover 75's & ZT's were fitted with a 'torque reduction' version of RLTC - MG Rover did not think it appropriate to sell a spitting and popping car!

...

What a silly decision!

I think that part of why the new F-Type is so damned desirable is due to the spitting and popping of that lovely exhaust system!

 

There's a Caterham on youtube with rltc