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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Having just replaced the window motor today, I have taken some photos of the procedure to show the steps involved.

Remove the door card, I have not covered this but if you need to see the procedure, have a look at CJJs central locking guide

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=212968

With the door card removed and the protective polythene layer removed, the first job is to remove the door glass. Move the window down to gain access to the rear mount bracket and remove the 10mm bolt holding the support bracket in place.


Next remove the 8mm bolt above and lift out the metal bracket.



Unfold and remove the plastic packer as below







Now make sure the window is closed, then looking through the metal cut outs along the top of the door, you will see the 2, 10mm bolts holding the bottom of the glass to the top metal runner, unscrew these to remove the glass from the support – make sure you hold the top of the glass to prevent it falling into the door.



Now lift the rear of the glass up and remove from the door, I left the glass stop on the glass, if you are careful it can be pulled out of the gap in the door. When the glass is removed operate the window to put the regulator in its lowest position (as if the window was open)





Now the regulator and motor can be removed, first of all disconnect the power supply to the motor, press in the small plastic lever and pull the connector apart.



Next, remove the 4, 8mm bolts as shown in the 2 photos below and circled in white. Now loosen only the 2, 10mm bolts circled in red, just enough to pivot the regulator so it can be pulled into the door cavity by hand.





Lift the regulator out as shown.



If you have a complete new assembly to fit, just reverse the steps above to re-fit, if you want to replace only the motor, this is done as follows.
Remove the 3 T20 torx screws circled red in the photo and lift the motor away.


The replacement I obtained (passenger rear door Rover 400 1990-96) has the motor riveted in place – circled in red, drill out the rivets to remove.


The connector plug was different on the replacement motor so I cut the old one off and jointed it the the new one with spade connectors – this is so I can reverse the connections if the motor goes down when I press the switch to go up!

Here are the 2 motors together (top is MGF) Note that the MGF assembly is counter sunk to accept the indent in the metal bracket, the Rover one is not. Sorry about the blurred photos!





The mounting holes on the Rover motor require slight adjustment with a drill to line up correctly and you either have to counter sink the plastic of the motor or as I did, grind off the indents in the metal bracket so the motor sits flush. Attach the motor to the bracket with suitable nuts/bolts.

After refitting to the car, you might need to adjust the final position of the glass, use the 2 bolts where the glass attaches to the top runner there is both horizontal and vertical movement available, its really just trial and error until the best fit is achieved.
 

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other_manufacturer
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A great thread well done, A tip for next time though that saves time and messing, you don't need to remove the glass, you can actually fit a block of wood inside the door to hold the glass up while you do the repair.
Try using a couple of rubber door stops, you know the wedge type:-




This makes doubly sure that the window wont fall down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
A great thread well done, A tip for next time though that saves time and messing, you don't need to remove the glass, you can actually fit a block of wood inside the door to hold the glass up while you do the repair.
Try using a couple of rubber door stops, you know the wedge type:-




This makes doubly sure that the window wont fall down.
Great idea:broon:

In my case I have never got on with glass so its probably best well out of the way!

Sorry about the quality of the photos, I was taking them one handed (trying to keep the dirt and grease off my phone) and they are not as clear as they could have been.
 

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A great help

I have just replaced my window motor and this guide gave me the confidence to fit the motor from a 400 series Rover. The one I bought had 4 wires to the motor. Only two were needed but it functions fine with the other two isolated. The motor cost £10 from the local breaker so a cheap solution. Again many thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have just replaced my window motor and this guide gave me the confidence to fit the motor from a 400 series Rover. The one I bought had 4 wires to the motor. Only two were needed but it functions fine with the other two isolated. The motor cost £10 from the local breaker so a cheap solution. Again many thanks.
Thanks for the feedback:broon: glad it helped you out :)
 

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Ebay motor £5.99, thanks for the guide followed it and found very easy +rep.

For anyone with different plugs they can be pulled apart and the metal spades swapped without having to cut/join wires.

Red wire goes with red/blue and blue wire goes to red/orange IIRC
I just plugged the spades in without plug attached nd pressed window switch if turned same way for both motors then all is gravy
 

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Ebay motor £5.99, thanks for the guide followed it and found very easy +rep.

For anyone with different plugs they can be pulled apart and the metal spades swapped without having to cut/join wires.

Red wire goes with red/blue and blue wire goes to red/orange IIRC
I just plugged the spades in without plug attached nd pressed window switch if turned same way for both motors then all is gravy
How difficult was it to adjust the mounting holes, and did you countersink the motor or grind the bracket?

Also, what size bolts did you use to fit the new motor? I'd rather get them beforehand rather than leave the car in B&Q carpark with the window down :lol:

Many thanks to the OP for this guide!
 

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Didn't need to adjust mounting holes as motor was off an MGF.
Used origional bolts, T20 Torx bit IIRC

Once mech was out I cleaned up best I could with WD40 and old rag then regresed, works better than passenger side now lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
How difficult was it to adjust the mounting holes, and did you countersink the motor or grind the bracket?

Also, what size bolts did you use to fit the new motor? I'd rather get them beforehand rather than leave the car in B&Q carpark with the window down :lol:

Many thanks to the OP for this guide!
When you get your replacement motor just try the mounting holes until you get the best fit for bolts, if they are too long, put a nut onto the end at the point you want to cut, put it into a vice and cut - the nut acts as a guide for the saw and then cleans up the cut thread when you unscrew it.
 

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RESULT!

Well, after months of deliberating I finally got round to getting this job done.

Many thanks to everyone that's posted in this thread, it definitely gave me the confidence to pick up my tools and get stuck in (I'm not the most mechanically minded person, definitely better at taking things apart than putting them back together!).

For anyone reading this thinking of giving it a go, do it. It cost me £15 for the part (messaged everyone on eBay breaking an F or TF and asked for their best price) and only took a couple of hours to do.
 

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Try using a couple of rubber door stops, you know the wedge type:-




This makes doubly sure that the window wont fall down.
Reviving an old thread...HappyChappy....the door wedges, did you put them in betweenthe glass and the door on the inside (if you see what I mean....)

Am about to replace my motor, but dont really want to remove the glass...


cheers
 

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Have just been messing around inside the door again, looks like a mix of wedges and bits of wood will keep the window in place.

I think that the ebay 'roundbloke withearhair' now trades as 'MGF Recycling'? Looks like my Bday presssie this year is a new regulator....


mikef
 

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Have just been messing around inside the door again, looks like a mix of wedges and bits of wood will keep the window in place.

I think that the ebay 'roundbloke withearhair' now trades as 'MGF Recycling'? Looks like my Bday presssie this year is a new regulator....


mikef
I Just used a suction cup on the glass at the correct height so it wouldnt drop down, the back of the cup would not pass inbetween the door and stopped the glass from moving, very simple and quick to put in place.. I just replaced my motor today, drivers side mgtf 2002 = rover 400 rear passenger regulator, didnt need to mod it at all apart from the connector, and works like a dream now, only £8 on ebay, bargain :)
 

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I Just used a suction cup on the glass at the correct height so it wouldnt drop down, the back of the cup would not pass inbetween the door and stopped the glass from moving, very simple and quick to put in place.. I just replaced my motor today, drivers side mgtf 2002 = rover 400 rear passenger regulator, didnt need to mod it at all apart from the connector, and works like a dream now, only £8 on ebay, bargain :)
Cheers...good idea...

I like the idea of only paying £8 also!

mikef
 
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