[Bigmac]

After I tortured myself doing it I thought I post it up here for everyone:

the whole thing is based on Dieter’s manual:
http://www.mgfcar.de/gearbox/clutch_replacement_MGF.htm

first of all I left the car on the ground, didn’t want to break my back so I did everything as far as I could without raising it:

First disconnect the battery

then the cover

that needs to be cleared out, luckily I don’t have any standard stuff so it was a bit easier

after the airfilter was removed

those 2 screws at the fuel filter and 3 screws under the filling stud, bit tricky but possible, then remove the whole thing

remove the screw holding the lambda clip and the fuel pipes

 

[Bigmac]

here are several things that can be done, disconnect rearlightconnector, startercable, startercableclip

because I have a clutch support bracket I needed to remove the manifold cover and remove the screw from the other side

remove the speedo plug

remove the 4 slave-cylinder bracket screws, move the cylinder towards the firewall

the tool for proper heroes 200Nm , that helped me a lot…
I loosened up the 4 screws of the gearbox support bridge but don’t remove it yet

here a pic how I reached them

and the tricky screw on the other side

now I need to raise the car, so up it went and 2 stands under it, taking off both wheels and the cover

 

[Bigmac]

for easy access to the starter, use an extension to reach the screws

and gone

now the gearbox oil, you can see both screws, upper “in”, lower “out”

because I didn’t have the proper tool I used this

to avoid the release of the suspension fluid you lift the suspension till it almost lifts off, then put a wedge in between, but first remove the rubber thingy…
do that on both sides

shaft already out, nice view into the differential

raise the gearbox from below, release the vertical screw, remove the bridge and take off the gearbox bracket

now the shiftcables, I only removed the upper cable with bracket completely, the rest can stay, makes it easier

 

[Bigmac]

now the serious stuff…. The gearbox… you will need 2 car jacks and some good books

if you place the jack like this you can pull the gearbox away afterwards

now remove the rest of the screws with the powertool, very easy..

finally, gearbox is seperated

some advice, rotate the gearbox 90 degrees clockwise so the clutchlever is facing upwards, this way you can drop the gearbox and it stays like this

removing the clutch is easy, very much self explaining ones you see it, here the old one

view from bottom to top

that thing will also be replaced with one with nipples 8)

here a comparison of old and new: 3kg EN24 very niice

 

[Bigmac]

engine side without the flywheel, careful it might leak a bit at the lower screw

and fitted already, flywheel with AP racing clutch, perfect !!

Ok from now on I didn’t make any pictures anymore for the sake of the camera, because I got seriously frustrated for the next 2 hours trying to realign the gearbox and fit it back on the engine, what a nightmare.
Problem is that there are 3 align pins on the gearbox side which need to be slotted into the engine, not only do you need to get the gearbox shaft fit into the clutchplate, but also those 3 pins.
I got at the end so frustrated that I took some screws, put them in where I could and just tightened them, fortunately it actually worked and the gearbox slotted into place… yeah high five…

The rest was easy… just put it back together in reverse order……

 

[Dr Dave]

What an excellent post, well done, I know how frustrating the alignment of the gearbox to the engine can be. Sometimes they will go first go, no problems, other times they will be a right pig.

Well done!

 

[Petevick]

that is bloody fantastic matey, well done :broon:. And the best use of MCSE books as well :lol:

 

[darenh]

Great Job, how long did it take you, apart from the 2 hours of aliment, and do you only need to remove the offside shaft? I need to do mine at some point.

 

[Petevick]

What an excellent post, well done, I know how frustrating the alignment of the gearbox to the engine can be. Sometimes they will go first go, no problems, other times they will be a right pig.

Well done!

for the record Doc, are there any major differences to the TF when doing this job ??

 

[ErikB]

Quality posting !!!

 

[Yigit]

Top guide!

 

[happychappy#1]

Well done a superb how to that will be used again and again I am sure.

My fave piccie has to be the one with the books. :lol:

Rep comin' your way....

 

[Bigmac]

thanks guys... wasn't expecting so much rep coming this way.... very pleased.

hope it will help one or two in the future

 

[gotenks1321]

Sweet write-up :broon:

I know what you mean about lining the gearbox up to get it back in. I ended up re-aligning my clutch when doing it as it wasn't quite square :lol:

 

[Bigmac]

Great Job, how long did it take you, apart from the 2 hours of aliment, and do you only need to remove the offside shaft? I need to do mine at some point.

about 10 hours, and yes only offside shaft needs to be taken off

 

[Reaper]

Any noticable improvement with the lighter flywheel?

 

[CJJ]

Nice post.

Could you fill in a few blanks? Removing the drive shaft and lining the clutch up. Only asking cos I'll be doing this soon.

 

[Johnny M]

:trophy: I concur a supered thread. Brilliant well done

 

[steve1951]

Brilliant. I just wish I had seen this before my three day epic journey into our mgf clutch.
I ended up after many and varied attempts to align everything by putting the clutch in fingertight, so as to allow movement of the plate. putting in bolts and pulling in evenly jostled gearbox and it slipped in easy.
Then spanner on crank turn engine and tighten all clutch cover bolts through starter housing gap.
Maybe not approved method but the last resort

 

[steve1951]

I also found the medim size ratchet below half inch is it five sixteenth or three eights fits the drain plug