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rover_75_tourer
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Symptom: Message Centre LCD in the top part of the IPK is not showing several lines of pixels.

Cure: Follow this how-to to fix it.

Prepare to spend an hour of 4 to 5 on this DIY job. I managed to do this in one afternoon, starting after lunch and just finished with satisfying result before dinner.

Tools required:
1. Philips PH2 screw driver
2. Torx T10 bit or T10 screw driver
3. Flat-bladed scissors.
4. Soldering iron
5. Flat iron
6. Some big books / at least one hard covered
7. 2 pieces of rubber (2mm X width of the ribbon) (e.g. spare ones from a set of bike lights available from Halfrauds)

Step 1:
Follow the steps in this thread to get inside the IPK: http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=10542

Step 2:
Work the IPK open until you get to see this. Mind the black and white connectors holding the back closed until you release the little latches at the bottom of those connectors!


Since we see missing lines of pixels it is most likely that the problem is caused by bad connections in the white ribbon cable that carries the signals for each individual pixel. Nevertheless checking the soldered connections between the brown controller flap and the green circuit board of the IPK wouldn’t hurt while being at it.

Step 3:
Use a small soldering iron at approx. 300°C to go over each connection track, making sure it connects well.


However the biggest problem is the connection between the brown flap and the white ribbon cable.

Step 4:
Stack 2 or 3 books on top of each other and put the LCD on top of the stack of books (hard coverd one on top) with the IPK sitting on it’s bottom, so it stands on the desk like it normally sits in the car. Now use the flat iron at medium setting to apply heat and pressure on the connection between the brown flap and the ribbon.

Gently also apply heat to the connection between the ribbon and the LCD itself.


Place a small strap of rubber in between the notches on the translucent plastic sheet and tape it down, like in the picture above (black bar on the translucent plastic sheet).

Put the LCD back in its holder on the translucent plastic.

After doing this and taking the unit back to the car in the current shape to test it still shows some lines but it already got much better.

Applying pressure to the connection between the brown flap and the ribbon gave a nearly perfect result; all we need now is finding a way to keep constant pressure on the connection while the IPK is being closed.

Step 5:
Looking at the black back of the IPK there seems to be some sort of bridge to keep the ribbon in place, but I’ve found it doesn’t apply pressure to the ribbon. We’re going to use 2 pieces of rubber placed on top of each other to apply a constant pressure to the ribbon connection (unfortunately no picture of this step).

Step 6:
Now screw back together the IPK in reverse order, making sure the ribbon gets pressed between the newly placed rubber and the back of the IPK.

I’m driving around with a renewed message center for about a month now and it still works! Only 3 to 4 lines are still visible on the sides of the LCD panel, only visible in yellow but all text is displayed as it should!



Disclaimer:
You are responsible for any work or modifications carried out on your car and you undertake any such work at your own risk. Neither MG-ROVER.org nor the original author of these How-To's can be held liable for anything that may happen as a result of you following these How-To's.
Any modifications should be reported to your insurance company.
 

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rover_75
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Excellent post. I have just done mine and after a few trips in and out of car it is all bang on now. I would like to add a bit more.....
1: If you are not great with soldering or indeed do not have a soldering iron just try adding the foam as explained to the back of the panel. I added up to about 10mm in layers until it was right.
2: Be careful with the trip reset button. It can break very easily when you are putting the glass panel back on. I know! No big deal though.

My panel had the Rover seal still on it and when I looked at the solder pins about 5 of them looked like they were repaired before at the factory with a big iron and a heavy hand as the top layer of the board was damaged from heat. In the end what fixed mine was adding the foam which is why I say try that first.

Myself and Connie thank you!
 

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Hey guys,

Have done this on my, but no result at all... :(
I put the rubber so there is pressure on both sides of white connector.

What could be mistake?
How much heat do i have to supply on brown-white cable connection?

Regards
 

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rover_75_tourer
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Discussion Starter #4
Hey Salabajzer,

Then your problem may be either the connection between the brown flap and the PCboard (2nd picture, Step 3 above), corrosion/wear of one (or more) connections. It's difficult to tell really without pictures. Take a close look and see if the connections on the flat cable look connected and a bit shiny. dark grey means corrosion.

Regards
 

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Hey Salabajzer,

Then your problem may be either the connection between the brown flap and the PCboard (2nd picture, Step 3 above), corrosion/wear of one (or more) connections. It's difficult to tell really without pictures. Take a close look and see if the connections on the flat cable look connected and a bit shiny. dark grey means corrosion.

Regards

Ok, thank you very much...
I will try to fix it again within next few days.
If there is corrosion, what should i do? Re-solder all connections to PCB?

Regards
 

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This thread has exactly the information I have been looking for. However, the links to the illustrations are broken. Does anyone have the original images or links to them?

Many thanks,
 
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