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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone no how to remove s broken McGaurd locking nut without damaging the alloy?
Was changing the brake fluid as part of the 2 year service and when I came to take the last wheel off, the locking nut broke. The part with the 'drive' has sheared of the main body of the nut so I am now left with a hardened steel nut still attached to the stud and no obvious way to remove it.
The other 3 intact nuts will be going in the bin with the broken one and I will replace them with the softer old style locking nuts which can be removed, even when rounded off.
 

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I've used an air chisel before with good success before Steve.

You just need to be very careful.

Only other way is if space allows, weld a large-ish nut to it and use that to undo the broken locker.
 

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Steve, Jerry had that happen when putting on brand new set few weeks ago,got me a little worried as i have these also, one sheared in half when he was putting on, have a peep on my forum below, i think he had a bit of trouble getting off also and in the end i think he banged on old socket etc, garages didn't want to try it for fear of damaging alloys and comp claim, jerry did scratch his a little trying, Dave

http://theswmgf.proboards56.com/index.cgi?board=gotaprobknowhowtodo&action=display&thread=1172599858
 

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what style is the nut? generally banging on an old socket is the best way to do it, if not as said weld a nut or right angle bar onto it( 2nd is easier to do although weaker) or have you tried one of the laser wheel nut removal kits you can get from places like screwfix? there like banging on an old socket but the inside is threaded aswell so it bites in

chris

chris
 

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Discussion Starter #5
They are the new style nuts. As you can see there is very little space so welding a nut on is not an option. I'll guive the hammer a socket on approach a try after lunch but I'm not hopeful it will work as there is so little to get a purcase on.
 

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that looks like the problem I had Steve. It turned out they were the wrong type and the stud was bottoming out on the lock nut, effectivly pushing the end of the nut off. Jeff Fowkes in Ibstock managed to get my broken one off without wheel damage, probably with something like this, altho nut much help today. I now have a set of McGuards bought from the on line shop, and, so far, have been ok.
 

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I'm not certain there is enough space for those tools to be of any use Pete, they're quite thick-walled.
 

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Jeff Fowkes in Ibstock managed to get my broken one off without wheel damage, probably with something like this,
Given that something like this 'Emergency locking wheel nut remover' is available for anybody to buy, and also given the number of times people report problems trying to remove LWN's it does make you wonder if it's worth fitting the things in the first place!.:(
 

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Anyone no how to remove s broken McGaurd locking nut without damaging the alloy?
Was changing the brake fluid as part of the 2 year service and when I came to take the last wheel off, the locking nut broke. The part with the 'drive' has sheared of the main body of the nut so I am now left with a hardened steel nut still attached to the stud and no obvious way to remove it.
The other 3 intact nuts will be going in the bin with the broken one and I will replace them with the softer old style locking nuts which can be removed, even when rounded off.
Hi Steve.
I had the same happen to me with a set bought from Glenn S at Stoneleigh. One of mine poppped off overnight and the end landed in next doors garden. They were correctly torqued up, and had corrosion marks as if they had fractured earlier - see Dave's link.
I bought a set of reverse thread, taper flute nut/bolt extractors. They had big flats on, which I removed with an angle grinder, and after that they came off with not much trouble. The damage was only cosmetic, as I have since resprayed all wheels again in factory Gunmetal.

You can borrow my stuff if we can think of a way to get it to you?
 

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Given that something like this 'Emergency locking wheel nut remover' is available for anybody to buy, and also given the number of times people report problems trying to remove LWN's it does make you wonder if it's worth fitting the things in the first place!.:(

I was just thinking that myself reading this thread. What's the point ,they seem to cause more problems to us owners rather than the thieves!!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Latest update.
Tried the hammer a socket of method, which just pushed the stud through the hub and off the splines, allowing it to turn freely. Pushed to stud back in and wedged it in place. Tried again, nut just rounded the corners of the socket. Went up Machine Mart and bought a nut removal tool that has a helix inside designed to bite into bolt heads. Again the nut just rounded of the tool, and I now have even less paint on the wheel.

Jerry, thanks for the offer. I'll see if any of the local garages can help tomorrow and if not then I may well take you up on the offer of the tool. I assume its not huge in which case post/courier would probably be the best option. I don't mind paying if it gets me out of this situation. Where did you get the tools from BTW?

Don't know if its just coincidence but I also got mine from Glen (almost a year ago) and the nut also shows signs that the majority of the fracture being there for some time, as the fracture surface has rusted 3/4 of the way round. There is then just a small fresh brake around 1/4 of the nut.

The problem with most of the tools available seems to be that they are fine for softer nuts (i.e. the earlier MGR nuts) but the McGard nuts are harder then the tool material.

Anyone know if the splines on the hub studs are parallel or tapered? I'm thinking next plan may be to get the inside end of the stud ground off and then push it out the hub. Only other option I can see is to drill the stud out from the outside but that will prove very costly.

Is there the possibilty of a claim against McGard on this failure?
I will certainly be contacting them for compensation for costs incurred. One things for sure, I will be asking for more then a new set of nuts, which I wouldn't fit anyway as they are clearly not fit for purpose.

Was also planning to spend the afternoon/evening doing a pub crawl looking for venues for our Midlands F register monthly meet so have had to cry off that too which has made me even more :cus:ed off.
 

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Mmm. I got my tools from Machine Mart. I have since noticed a much cheaper one (as above) in Halfords!!!!I am not best pleased.

It cost me the tool, 2.5 days to get it off, I had to repair the cosmetic dagage to the multispokes, and then I had to spray the other three to match! I then had to wait a month as Glenn S had no more nuts in Stock, and had to wait for another batch to come from Germany. I also pushed the stud off the splines, and had to pack between the hub and the wheel with some soft alloy. I have also discovered that the Mcguard nuts have slightly distorted the threads. In fact, I might have to renew one stud as a bit of thread wound off with the nut!!!!!! I thought it might be hydraulic action which popped the end off mine. Mine also had the fresh/rusty marks on the fracture.

All in all, I wish I had stayed with the originals, as I had no problems with them.
 
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