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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've noticed there doesn’t appear to be a how to on the “rear upper ball joints” for the TF (or not what I could find) so thought I’d botch one together with pictures found on the internet and some I've taken of a hub I've spare as I never took any when doing mine recently.


First of all, get the tools you need:

Trolley jack/jack
Axle stands
One 46mm deep socket ½ inch drive (¾ is better but not so available)
One Power bar, two foot is good but longer if possible (or a tube to fit over it)
19mm socket to undo wheel nuts and also to start off the nut on the upper ball joint
T40 torx (socket or allen key type)
19mm open end/ring spanner
Hammer
Flat head screwdriver which you don’t mind using as a chisel
Wire brush
penetrating oil/oil/cooking oil

First of all, the rear upper ball joints on the TF are different to MGF (which are the same front and rear) as they have a larger step on them as shown in pictures below. Watch out when buying as most part sellers on the internet don’t sell the TF ones and list the front as rears.

MGF front & rear/MGTF front




MGTF Rear



Undo wheel nuts slightly whilst car is still on floor (I know everyone should know this but hey, some people might not) then jack up car, remove wheel nuts and wheel and then fit an axle stand under the subframe as shown in picture below or on the subframe mount further forward of where shown in the picture.





Once wheel is off and car secure on axle stands the upper ball joint can be easily seen as shown in picture below:



Use the wire brush to clean up the thread showing and if you have some, use some penetrating oil and let it soak in, if you have no penetrating oil use normal oil or even cooking oil to help lubricate the thread.

Once suitably cleaned and oiled undo the nut with the socket to begin with, it is very highly likely the nut will not undo with the socket completely and this is where the T40 torx and 19mm spanner comes into play. Place the torx drive into the top of the ball joint and then use the spanner to undo as shown below.




Now this is the bit I can’t really remember how I did it but you have to lift the radius arm off the ball joint, I think I did this placing the trolly jack under the suspension unit and jacking it up, alternatively use CCJ’s how to MGF & MG TF Owners Forum - - How to replace a TF Rear Upper Suspension Arm. (1/2) on radius arm removal however, there is no need to remove the arm just loosen enough to access the ball joint.

Once radius arm is removed from the ball joint, get the hammer and screwdriver and bend down the washer at the base of the ball joint which is bent up against the nut. Try not to damage the washer too much as it is likely the new ball joints will not come with one and therefore you will need to reuse it.



Once the washer is bent down juggle the 46mm socket onto the ball joint (it will fit honest) and with the breaker bar undo the ball joint.

I didn't have a picture of the hub on the car with the 46mm socket on it, so I took the picture below of a spare rear hub I have in the house with the socket on it.




Word of warning it will be tight, very tight to the extent your breaker bar might start to bend or even worst case scenario (if a cheap one) snap. But it will undo. This is where if you have a piece of pipe it can give more leverage to undo it.

Once undone, refitting is the reverse of removal.

As long as you have the right tools it’s a pretty easy job and doesn't take that long.

46mm deep socket is required as the standard one is not deep enough to fit the TF rear upper ball joints

Thanks to CCJ for his How to and also a few pics and thanks to all the people I’ve stolen pics from to put this together :)
 

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mg_tf
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I don't get it - you have removed the whole hub in the picture - is this because you're using stock images (like you said)? Only I'd have though removing the hub before trying to take the balljoint off would be counterproductive as if you need 2 foot of breaker bar, what would you hold the hub still with?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't get it - you have removed the whole hub in the picture - is this because you're using stock images (like you said)? Only I'd have though removing the hub before trying to take the balljoint off would be counterproductive as if you need 2 foot of breaker bar, what would you hold the hub still with?

Hub is one I have hanging around the house, just wanted to show the washer bent up and the socket fitted......I wouldn't suggest taking the hub off to change the upper ball joint as it is a nightmare for leverage when undoing, I only know that as I'd removed an hub to change the wheel bearing and whilst it was off decided to remove the upper ball joint, even with a very large engineering vice it was difficult to undo, much easier to do on the car :)
 

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Thanks Dert.
Followed this today, but have a couple of things I'd maybe add.
After removing the top nut from the ball joint you need a bit of room to actually separate the ball joint. I put a jack under the hub and lifted it as hgh as I could. I then put a spare axle stand under the shock and lowered the jack. When I popped the ball joint free with the seperator it could then drop down cler of the radius arm.

There was also no way I could get the humongous 46mm socket onto the ball joint. I undid the antiroll bar on both sides of the car (top bolt where it meets the link) which let me rotate the bar up and out of the way.The socket can then be persuaded in with a hammer, and a pry bay to carefully edge the bottom of the shock forward a few millimetres- mind how you have it supported.
 

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I've noticed there doesn’t appear to be a how to on the “rear upper ball joints” for the TF (or not what I could find) so thought I’d botch one together with pictures found on the internet and some I've taken of a hub I've spare as I never took any when doing mine recently.


First of all, get the tools you need:

Trolley jack/jack
Axle stands
One 46mm deep socket ½ inch drive (¾ is better but not so available)
One Power bar, two foot is good but longer if possible (or a tube to fit over it)
19mm socket to undo wheel nuts and also to start off the nut on the upper ball joint
T40 torx (socket or allen key type)
19mm open end/ring spanner
Hammer
Flat head screwdriver which you don’t mind using as a chisel
Wire brush
penetrating oil/oil/cooking oil

First of all, the rear upper ball joints on the TF are different to MGF (which are the same front and rear) as they have a larger step on them as shown in pictures below. Watch out when buying as most part sellers on the internet don’t sell the TF ones and list the front as rears.

MGF front & rear/MGTF front




MGTF Rear



Undo wheel nuts slightly whilst car is still on floor (I know everyone should know this but hey, some people might not) then jack up car, remove wheel nuts and wheel and then fit an axle stand under the subframe as shown in picture below or on the subframe mount further forward of where shown in the picture.





Once wheel is off and car secure on axle stands the upper ball joint can be easily seen as shown in picture below:



Use the wire brush to clean up the thread showing and if you have some, use some penetrating oil and let it soak in, if you have no penetrating oil use normal oil or even cooking oil to help lubricate the thread.

Once suitably cleaned and oiled undo the nut with the socket to begin with, it is very highly likely the nut will not undo with the socket completely and this is where the T40 torx and 19mm spanner comes into play. Place the torx drive into the top of the ball joint and then use the spanner to undo as shown below.




Now this is the bit I can’t really remember how I did it but you have to lift the radius arm off the ball joint, I think I did this placing the trolly jack under the suspension unit and jacking it up, alternatively use CCJ’s how to MGF & MG TF Owners Forum - - How to replace a TF Rear Upper Suspension Arm. (1/2) on radius arm removal however, there is no need to remove the arm just loosen enough to access the ball joint.

Once radius arm is removed from the ball joint, get the hammer and screwdriver and bend down the washer at the base of the ball joint which is bent up against the nut. Try not to damage the washer too much as it is likely the new ball joints will not come with one and therefore you will need to reuse it.



Once the washer is bent down juggle the 46mm socket onto the ball joint (it will fit honest) and with the breaker bar undo the ball joint.

I didn't have a picture of the hub on the car with the 46mm socket on it, so I took the picture below of a spare rear hub I have in the house with the socket on it.




Word of warning it will be tight, very tight to the extent your breaker bar might start to bend or even worst case scenario (if a cheap one) snap. But it will undo. This is where if you have a piece of pipe it can give more leverage to undo it.

Once undone, refitting is the reverse of removal.

As long as you have the right tools it’s a pretty easy job and doesn't take that long.

46mm deep socket is required as the standard one is not deep enough to fit the TF rear upper ball joints

Thanks to CCJ for his How to and also a few pics and thanks to all the people I’ve stolen pics from to put this together :)
What depth of 46mm socket is required 1 inch or more?
 
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