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rover_25
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13 Posts
Just had my HGF fixed by a friend of a friend, but he is a qualified mechanic. Saved me about £450.

The only concern is a bit of a whine between 1000-2000 revs. I have spoken to him and he said it is probably the automatic tensioning re adjusting.

Does this sound right ?
 

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rover_25
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13 Posts
Just had my HGF fixed by a friend of a friend, but he is a qualified mechanic. Saved me about £450.

The only concern is a bit of a whine between 1000-2000 revs. I have spoken to him and he said it is probably the automatic tensioning re adjusting.

Does this sound right ?
Found a video of an Irish guy showing a cam belt change and adjusting the tensioner.

Had a look at mine this morning and the wire and the marker slot were not lined up. Luckily I had the right size allen key and is all now sorted.
 

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6 Posts
they only line up iff you have replaced the timing belt with a new one,iff using the old belt the pointer lines up slightly lower on the bottom wire
steve
hi im a total noob here need a bit of help please,changing head gasket k series rover 25 streetwise 1.4, got the new uprated mls head gasket,but the head has got circle 1mm indentions is this normal?


http://imageshack.us/f/267/img20120318103018.jpg/
 

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4,449 Posts
The above would indicate the head has gone soft (possibly as a result of overheating) and allowed the liners to dig into the head. A skim and hardness testing (very important) by a specialist engineer are called for here. DON'T put it back together like this, as you'll find yourself very quickly having to do the same repair again...
 

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84 Posts
Lets talk about thermostats.
I recon'd a 1.8K from a 2004 75 last year (well, took the block to an engineer to do the actual work) and it had no thermostat fitted!?!
This you can believe or not, but it is so. The car was my dad's and had been since new, and had no engine work done prior (it was on its first head gasket).

A thermostat is useful in assisting an engine getting to heat, where they are more powerful and run more efficiently. But thinking about it, had any body ever heard of a K series engine running too cool? I never have! Whether my dad's thermostat was left out by a bored worker in the factory, or to save ailing rover a few quid I don't know, but I put it back together without.

And it still runs fine after another 8000 miles.
I have to suggest, don't bother with a thermostat at all.

I will say that getting new o rings is essential as the thermostat housing is a known water leak point. Don't go to a motor factors for them, go to a central heating engineer. Take the old rings with you and get exactly the right size.

Does any one else know of any reason why the K MUST have a thermostat fitted at all?
 

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mgf
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8 Posts
I've had some problems with hoses blowing on my MGF VVC (1996). It's happened 3 times now but there are no signs of overheating. The engine runs fine and then when you're least expecting it BOOM! water all over the engine and a cloud of steam. I think the HGF has happened between the exhaust and cooling system and there's a build up of pressure. I have replaced the underfloor pipes and put a new rad on before this problem started and the expansion tank cap seems ok (it's the 21mm type). I just saw an ad for some sealant called Kalimex K Seal and was wondering if it's worth trying. Have any of you tried this or do you know of anyone who has and what were the results?
 

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mg_tf
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19 Posts
Started on my HG today with the help of a few guides on here, got into a bit of a mess with the head bolts though!
The cam shaft notches are right in the way of some of the bolts, so I can't get the socket in.
I've rotated the cams a bit with the locking tool off (Belts already off) but can't turn it enough to get to one bolt in particular :confused:

I suppose I could stick the belt back on and rotate the crank too to give the valves room to move, but the crank seizes up when the head bolts are loosened right?

Has anyone had this ussue atall?

I' pretty puzzled at to why I've not read about any problems related to this, so any pointers would be much appreciated! Cheers
 

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MG ZT, Rover 25
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6,181 Posts
If you've correctly set the crankshaft marks, the engine will be in safe position (with all 4 pistons in the middle of their stroke) so there will be no interference between piston and valve. Thus you can turn the cam shafts to access the blocked head bolts. Do it by hand, reasonably gently, but you will be working against the valve springs so there will be some resistance. Obviously don't do this if the engine is not in the safe position.
 

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mg_tf
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19 Posts
Just finished the gasket job today and although it starts up fine and sounds normal, after running it for a minute or so the coolant has oil in and the dipstick doesn't look too good either!

I don't really have much experience with this but I've tried to do a proper job of it, had the head skimmed and checked the liners etc...

Could this be down to coolant and oil pouring all over the block and channels when I originally pulled the head off? Or have I definitely balls'd it up? Spent the last few weekends doing this in the snow and rain so the last thing I wanna do is start again! :-(
 

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2,786 Posts
Sometimes you can have oil residue left in the coolant system after a H/G failure,and the usual way is to leave just water in it,and run with a dishwasher tab,or two dissolved in it,to break the deposits down.Run for a while-week or so- then drain, completely flush,and re-fill with a radiator flushing solution,Holts or whatever you want to use.Run for a day or two,for instance,drain,flush with water,and re-fill with anti-freeze mix.I change the oil also,and run with a diesel grade oil,for a few months to clear any coolant/oil residue from the sump also.Try this first,before panicking.
 
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