Full Janspeed exhaust system, so 4-2-1 manifold, sports cat, midpipe and backbox all by Janspeed, ITG air filter and then a remap by 'Z and F Tuning' (member on this forum) and you should have a healthy amount of bhp increase as well as more torque. I'd say about 175bhp ish, maybe more.

 

hi mate i already have a full janspeed exhaust system and a janspeed manifold.. not sure if its a 4-2-1 tho...

 

Not a massive you can do on the cheap tbh, Cat-back exhaust and induction like has been said. But to get anything above 5bhp-ish your looking at alot of money.

On a side note, where in kent are you from, and welcome to the forum. and pics of car are needed

 

Not a massive you can do on the cheap tbh, Cat-back exhaust and induction like has been said. But to get anything above 5bhp-ish your looking at alot of money.

On a side note, where in kent are you from, and welcome to the forum. and pics of car are needed

hi mate i have a pic but not sure how to upload it lol its ezactly the same as ( hip stars ) down below but mine has diff alloys and blacked out windows

and i love in medway! cheers

 

Yeah, the above of what I have said will cost in excess of £1000!

 

check the website DVAPower or so ive read somewhere on the forums

 

more power




a good back wind should help lol

 

piper exhaust cam, time all cams up, headwork and remap for starters. I wouldnt waste a penny of my money on an exhaust, maybe weld in a stainless sport cat before the original goes into meltdown!

 

+1
Couldn't agree more.
Please listen to this man he knows what he's taking about and has a website to prove it LOL

Oh and vernier pulleys IIRC

 

I feel in most cases, more enjoyment per pound can be had from brimming the tank and draining it in an enthusiastic manner.

 

Couldn't agree more. All that money is going to give you what, 1-2% extra performance, you shouldn't need that little bit more in order to enjoy it!

 

what ever u do dont bvut any chips unless they r the kind u can eat with salt and vinegar. The chips r a waste of time all they r is a bunch of resistors that fool the ecu into over fueling. all u will end up doing is ruening ur engine, fuel econemy and bank ballance.

If u realy want a more powerfull car go buy one off the forecourts. i never understand why people pay thousands on suping thier cars for very little benifit when they could buy a car with more grunt and insure it as standered for less money.

coop

 

Well it depends, not all cars are uneconomical to modify. I can get you from 105bhp to 135bhp for less than 50 quid had it been a rover diesel engine.

Also not all chips are bad, chips come from the good old days when we'd remove the e/eeprom's from the ecu and remap it by replacing the physical 'chip'. Yes they are mostly scamming resistors these days but the real thing still exists too for those that are careful from who they buy their products.

Incidentally my car is heavily modified, the only reason I didn't recommend it in this situation is because most mods on this engine will either cost loads or amount to an unnoticable difference.

 

^ by chips, i'm pretty sure he means an ECU piggyback (like a megasquirt or the likes), which is soldered into the ECU and makes it more (if not fully) programmable.

Also, heavily modified cars are actually cheaper to insure when done through specialist insurers. My ZR Rally car actually costs less a year than my Road-one did. And my Rally one is still registered as a ZR160, even though it's got a 1400S engine (150ish BHP).

 

^ by chips, i'm pretty sure he means an ECU piggyback (like a megasquirt or the likes), which is soldered into the ECU and makes it more (if not fully) programmable.

Also, heavily modified cars are actually cheaper to insure when done through specialist insurers. My ZR Rally car actually costs less a year than my Road-one did. And my Rally one is still registered as a ZR160, even though it's got a 1400S engine (150ish BHP).

is the ralley car insured to drive on the road more than to and from the meetings?

 

i guess i should clarify my post. there are applications to modifying engines there r several people on the forum that seem to do track days, rallying, hill climbs and the like. They spend huge amounts of money upgrading all sorts of things and thier cars r built for a specific job. However the average person just wants to get from a to b quicker and this is the part i dont understand. 3-4 k to upgrade various bits that r usualy done in a haphazard piecemeal way with no real thought of how each bit will work as a unit when as i said they could spend less and just simply buy a more powerfull car that is built to withstand the bhp etc for less money.

 

Insured the same as any road-car. Even covers me for windscreen.

 

I see where you're coming from, but there are situations where people who want to get from A to B quicker can do it cheaply. For example to get a derv (sorry for all the diesel talk, its the side im active in) to 150-160hp territory you're talking about three hundred. So it's like a cost of an induction kit and a backbox.

That said I'm way beyond that, I've spent about £700 on mine, shouldn't be far off my target of 200 ponies now. Most expensive bit was the clutch.

 

missing the piont

In my case i would love my MG160 Express to be quicker. But the piont some of the posts are missing is the size of my van, its just the purfect size but about 40 hp + 1 gear short of purfection.
mike

 

my car!

<a href="http://s838.photobucket.com/albums/zz305/pritchard160/?action=view&current=DSC00049.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i838.photobucket.com/albums/zz305/pritchard160/DSC00049.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

I was hoping that my service was a little better known by now - although one member has already kindly mentioned ZandF in the thread..

I offer quality mems ecu retunes (after all I was the engineer who developed the cars in the first place) and can provide an instant 10-15bhp vvc power boost by altering the rev limiter in my phase 2 retune. Note the recals are also about enhancing response in all driving conditions and not just on the red line though...

The service (www.zandf-tuning.co.uk) has had many forum reviews - heres a few links..

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=368138&page=9
http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?p=3843632#post3843632
http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=367752

Finally, the benefits are apparent on standard exh/intake systems with any tweaks along these lines simply adding a few more percent ( and a bit more noise..)
Oh, and Ive just announced a flat £199 retune fee for any recals obtained at MGFest Gaydon on 1st August (vvc recal is normally £259)

Cheers

 

^ I recommend Zandf-tuning.

Had some ECU work done on one of our cars back at Silverstone, and our drivers were greatly impressed by the difference of the car. This was on a 3rd party ecu, but still, very good service.

 

Remove the backseats if you don't need them

I've only heard good things about ZandF-Tuning, and to be honest is probably the best bang for bucks for your 160

 

i would remove the back seats but i have a 9 munf old boi dont fink he will like it very much haha nore the missus

 

Quick question here do you have to notify your insurance if you fit an induction kit to your car?

 

induction kit




well its not standard from factory anymore

 

yes u do i have all my mods on my insurence exhaust manifold blacked out windows alloys ect insurence only went up 150 quid so i falt why not! lol