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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is a basic guide on how to change a radiator on a manual Honda based 600/Accord with aircon, non-A/C and autos are similar.



Please note I take no responsibility for any damage you may cause, if in doubt get someone who knows what they are doing to help out.

Radiators are at best a consumable item, the one pictured above is a 4 year old Valeo 731076 that was mounted behind the aircon condenser.

Stuff needed:

New radiator and maybe a new rad cap.
10mm/12mm socket and wrench.
10mm ring spanner.
Flat blade screwdriver.
Large pump pliers.
Drain pan with a capacity of 5 litres or above.
5 litres of coolant.
Funnel and jug.
Copper grease.
New fan shroud bolts.
If an automatic, autobox fluid (Honda ATF-Z1) and a pair of plastic hydraulic hose clamps.

Optional:

Thermostat.

Right then unpack the new rad, the replacement going in is a Nissens 622831 which technically isn't the right rad.





Yes its an auto rad and its going into a manual car, but that isn't the only difference.



Its also quite a bit thicker.

You might want to check your current rad cap fits the new rad before you start the job, make sure the engine is cold before you remove the cap to check, if it doesn't fit you'll need Blueprint-ADL ADZ99901.

Disconnect the battery negative lead, make sure you have the radio code handy and make a note of the presets if needed before you disconnect.

Start by draining the rad, place the drain pan under the the drain plug and undo the plug slightly, then undo the rad cap.



Let the coolant drain out and then start disconnecting the fans also remove the expansion bottle and pipe and empty the bottle into the drain pan as you'll gain space to disconnect the rad fan by using a flat blade screwdriver to push in the top clip.



The A/C fan has 2 connectors the top one disconnects from the bottom, the bottom connector unclips from the fan shroud.





Remove the hose from the top of the rad, depending on style of clip you'll either need to unscrew or squeze with large pliers, no need to remove just slide it past the pipe.



Undo the 4 top mount bolts and remove the brackets.



Next lift and rotate the old rad to get it out.



Watch for clearance as it could foul on the condenser and A/C pipes, lift it out and place top. At this point or maybe before if you have an auto you'll want to clamp the autobox oil cooler hoses and remove, it will get messy, use those small plastic hydraulic hose clamps.



Remove the bottom pipe in the same way as you did the top pipe.



Then you should be left with a nice clear space, clean up if needed.



At this point you might want to consider replacing the thermostat if you don't know its history, I had mine replaced 4 years ago using a genuine Honda OE stat kit so I won't be replacing mine at this time.

Right then its time to remove the fan shrouds and build up the new rad.



The bottom bolts are usually the ones that shear off.



These however came out ok probally because I used copper grease before, but I don't trust them so I'll replace them anyway.



Don't forget to remove the rubber bottom mounts from the old rad if they came out and put them back on the car and not the bottom of the new rad.



This new rad has some square nuts included, I will be using them in a bit, remove the shipping plugs and covers from the new rad, make sure the drain plug is tight.



Mount the the fan shrouds, use the square nuts at the bottom of the rad fan shroud not the A/C fan shroud, only one each is needed as a spacer not two as pictured.



This is because the shroud will foul this rad and will still slightly even with the spacer so do not tighten too much, make sure you use plenty of copper grease on the bottom bolts.

Also if you are using an auto rad on a manual you may want to tape up the caps for the oil cooler.



Right then installation is a reverse of removal as they say, make sure the rad sits in the bottom mounts properly, do not foul the rad on the A/C condenser if fitted. Reconnect all the connectors and hoses, clean and install the expansion bottle. Reinstall the top mounts and bolts, don't forget the copper grease. If you have an auto now is the time to add ATF.

Time to fill the new rad, undo the bleed screw at top of the thermostat housing.



I use genuine Honda type 2 coolant, it is premixed and I don't really like paying for water but as its good for upto -36°C protection and the right mix for Honda engines so I don't mind.



Recently Honda have been extending their Pro brand to cars from bikes, I was pretty surprised when I went to get some more coolant after I'd mistakenly ran out and got handed this.



The old one.



It is expensive at £15.48 + VAT for 5 litres but like I say it works for me, if you can't afford it then please use silicate free coolant and mix it with distilled water and don't use plain water on its own whatever you do.

Right then fill the rad slowly until coolant comes out of the bleed screw then tighten it.



Fill some coolant in the expansion bottle you may need to prime the expansion bottle hose, make sure the heater is set to max heat and reconnect battery and start the car with the rad cap off, turn the blower to max, make sure the aircon is off if fitted.



Now then to bleed the system you are meant to leave it until the rad fan starts twice, however in this weather thats not going to happen.

Make sure you have rags around the filler neck as coolant will be coming out, the top pipe will get hot and coolant will start to boil in the rad, try not to breath in the vapour for this work the thermostat must open and the bottom pipe should get hot.

After a while when the bottom pipe gets and no more coolant is being expelled you should be done, turn off the car and put the rad cap on, if all goes to plan coolant should be drawn from the expansion bottle as it cools down, when topping up always do it via the expansion bottle.

Time to clean up and finish, old rad should go to the tip as should the old coolant, if your tip won't accept the old coolant then a garage might take it, my Honda dealer took mine.
 

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Honda radiators

Brilliant post Ray_S. You have inspred me to look for an equivalent on the SDi. I don't know if Honda/Nissens do a thicker one for the Diesel cars, but anything has got to be better than the one that is in my car - half the fins have cracked off, and I intended to do a swap "as soon as convenient" about 2 years ago. The problem on the Diesels is that the rad has to be disturbed more often than the Gasolines, purely because the intercooler needs removing on a regular basis to have the innards flushed. Each time the I/C is removed, the rad gets another bash or three.....
 

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mg_zt_t
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Nice one Ray..

A picture paints a thousand words... lots of pictures paint millyons... :)
..
.
 

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who's car ray ? and what is it , accord I presume ?
v good guide , unfortunately I cant rep you at the mo , gotta share it about according to the wee message that appears , andy
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Brilliant post Ray_S. You have inspred me to look for an equivalent on the SDi. I don't know if Honda/Nissens do a thicker one for the Diesel cars, but anything has got to be better than the one that is in my car - half the fins have cracked off, and I intended to do a swap "as soon as convenient" about 2 years ago. The problem on the Diesels is that the rad has to be disturbed more often than the Gasolines, purely because the intercooler needs removing on a regular basis to have the innards flushed. Each time the I/C is removed, the rad gets another bash or three.....
Thanks, IIRC the rads Nissens list for the diesel and Ti are both 32mm thick.

Nice one Ray..

A picture paints a thousand words... lots of pictures paint millyons... :)
..
.
Thanks John. :)

who's car ray ? and what is it , accord I presume ?
v good guide , unfortunately I cant rep you at the mo , gotta share it about according to the wee message that appears , andy
No worries Andy, its the thought that counts. :)

Thats my 98 Accord, have another poverty spec pre-facelift 95 Accord as well.
 

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aah right , I was thinking it wasnt that long since you changed a rad ....twice iirc ? on an accord , didnt realise you had a brace of them :lol:
I take it the '98 is one like this ?..

are the twin fans standard on those or have you added the second fan ? I seem to remember the honda 600's only had one fan , andy
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Nah thats a 98-02 CG/CH model, not that much in common with the 600 and 93-98 CC7/CE/7/8/9/CF1 Accords.

My 98 is one of these but in red (pic borrowed from ebay).



Yeah I changed the rad on the 95 Accord not so long ago and had a new faulty rad and had to change it again, the original rad lasted 15 years :lol: before failing, was going to do a guide then but it was way too easy as it didn't have A/C to get in the way.

The second fan is for the A/C and is standard fit on A/C models.
 

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Re changing Radiator Fluid

Hi guys, great post. Due to it I will change my radiator shortly.
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Question: How much radiator fluid (total) do I need to purchase? - I got so far 2.6 ltrs and 5-6 ltres as answers? - a manual says 2.6 ltrs but that seems not enough by far!
Any help, want to change the radiator this weekend.
 

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Hi guys, great post. Due to it I will change my radiator shortly.
-
Question: How much radiator fluid (total) do I need to purchase? - I got so far 2.6 ltrs and 5-6 ltres as answers? - a manual says 2.6 ltrs but that seems not enough by far!
Any help, want to change the radiator this weekend.

As much as you want or need (re dilution etc) ie as long as you top up (or pre-mix) with distilled not tap water as Ray states. I tend to buy 2.5l (50/50) Still on original thermostat and water pump (150k), although the original rad broke down along edge about 75k! (I never use rad weld, so changed it.) Replacement looks excellent nick still - (IIRC it was circa £80 in 2002)
 

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thanks devon. so 2.5l will be enough, roughly. I understand about the 50/50. that would be just perfect.

Is de-ionised water the same as distilled and can it be used instead?

(if I only need 2.5 ltrs I got enough, but if I need 5 ltrs I need to get extra, that's why I am asking. plus, I hate to have done the job and now need to go on a bike to buy more coolant as it ain't enough...)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Mine took around 4.8 litres including the expansion bottle in total, so 2.5 litres concentrate at 50/50 will be 5 litres, you'll need to check the dilution rate of the concentrate, too weak and you'll end up with a frozen engine over winter.

It's away better to have more than to be caught out.
 

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Careful with old rusted bolts!!!

Just to let anyone know, to take extra care when you take the old rad out. one of the bolts snapped.
I was careful but even with wd40, not careful enough, so my tip is to get wd40 way in advance to let it loosen up.
including and esp. the 4 bolts that secure the radiator....

ta.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Not had one of those go before, take it the change went ok?

As with working on any older vehicle rusted, rounded, seized and sheared nuts/bolts/screws are pretty much guaranteed.

Anti-seize compound is your best friend when putting stuff back on. ;)
 
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