Firestone Firehawk.
Over 30,000.
Over 30,000.
How many miles on tyres
Hi
I have been checking my tyre wear ahead of my MOT which is due in 2 months time. Just wondering whether I can just scrape through. One of my rears is getting close - still some wear left according to the little markers in the tread. Michelin Energy tyres have covered 25000miles - but I have had new tyres on the front around 15 months ago and these have done 13000 - plenty of tread on these which are the same Michelin Energy tyres. I swap my tryes so that I have new on the front when it comes to replacing.
How many miles out of tyres does everyone else get? I tow quite a large caravan two to three times a year, so this may reduce the miles.
Regards
I have been checking my tyre wear ahead of my MOT which is due in 2 months time. Just wondering whether I can just scrape through. One of my rears is getting close - still some wear left according to the little markers in the tread. Michelin Energy tyres have covered 25000miles - but I have had new tyres on the front around 15 months ago and these have done 13000 - plenty of tread on these which are the same Michelin Energy tyres. I swap my tryes so that I have new on the front when it comes to replacing.
How many miles out of tyres does everyone else get? I tow quite a large caravan two to three times a year, so this may reduce the miles.
Regards
1 - 20 of 43 Posts
Kumho KU31's - had 7mm 10,000 miles ago when I got the car and are already worn out.
Ooops.
Ooops.
I swap my tryes so that I have new on the front when it comes to replacing.
I know of Michelin dealers who will ONLY fit new tyres to rear axle for safety reasons, no matter how much you protest.
Ivor.
tyre people advise that new tyres are put on the back nowadays......
Here is the time history for my tyres:
SUMER: continental premium contact 205x65 R15 94H, 480 euro
Front: 2.5bar, Back: 2.3bar
17.04.2009, 59545km: ON
thread: 7.5 mm
01.11.2009, 76393km (16848km): OFF
thread:
in/mid/out mm/10Mm
FR 5.0/5.5/5.5 1.3 (Front Right)
FL 5.5/6.0/5.5 1.1
BR 6.5/7.0/6.5 0.5
BL 7.0/7.0/7.0 0.3
average 0.8mm/10000km (1.3mm/10000miles)
13.04.2010, 80977km ON
rotation:
FR <-> BL
FL <-> BR
24.10.2010 98200km OFF
in/mid/out mm/10Mm mm/10Mm from new
FR 4.5/4.5/4.5 1.5 1.3
FL 4.5/4.5/4.5 1.3 1.3
BR 4.5/4.5/4.5 0.7 0.5
BL 4.5/5.0/4.5 0.4 0.4
avg 0.95mm/10Mm avg from new 0.88mm/10Mm
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
WINTER: Continental Winter Contact 830T 195x65 R15 91H, 445 euro
F: 2.5bar, B: 2.3bar
01.11.2009, 76393km: ON
thread: 9mm
13.04.2010 80977km (4584km): OFF
thread:
in/mid/out mm/10Mm
FR 7.5/7.0/7.5 3.8
FL 7.5/7.5/7.5 3.3
BR 8.0/8.0/8.0 2.2
BL 8.0/8.0/8.0 2.2
avg 2.9mm/10000km (4.7mm/10000miles)
SUMER: continental premium contact 205x65 R15 94H, 480 euro
Front: 2.5bar, Back: 2.3bar
17.04.2009, 59545km: ON
thread: 7.5 mm
01.11.2009, 76393km (16848km): OFF
thread:
in/mid/out mm/10Mm
FR 5.0/5.5/5.5 1.3 (Front Right)
FL 5.5/6.0/5.5 1.1
BR 6.5/7.0/6.5 0.5
BL 7.0/7.0/7.0 0.3
average 0.8mm/10000km (1.3mm/10000miles)
13.04.2010, 80977km ON
rotation:
FR <-> BL
FL <-> BR
24.10.2010 98200km OFF
in/mid/out mm/10Mm mm/10Mm from new
FR 4.5/4.5/4.5 1.5 1.3
FL 4.5/4.5/4.5 1.3 1.3
BR 4.5/4.5/4.5 0.7 0.5
BL 4.5/5.0/4.5 0.4 0.4
avg 0.95mm/10Mm avg from new 0.88mm/10Mm
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
WINTER: Continental Winter Contact 830T 195x65 R15 91H, 445 euro
F: 2.5bar, B: 2.3bar
01.11.2009, 76393km: ON
thread: 9mm
13.04.2010 80977km (4584km): OFF
thread:
in/mid/out mm/10Mm
FR 7.5/7.0/7.5 3.8
FL 7.5/7.5/7.5 3.3
BR 8.0/8.0/8.0 2.2
BL 8.0/8.0/8.0 2.2
avg 2.9mm/10000km (4.7mm/10000miles)
Nankangs rears about 28k fronts 18k
It makes sense anyway really. If the fronts are worn out due to the general nature of front tyres, then the back tyres should be put at the front and the new pair on the rear. That way you're rotating the tyres for wear and age.tyre people advise that new tyres are put on the back nowadays......
Depends imo. My last car had Debica's (Goodyear Budgets) at the back, and shagged fronts - Toyo T1-R's were sub £50 a corner so obviously I went for the good Toyo tyres. Now the garage were most insistent I fit these to the front, but I disagreed...It makes sense anyway really. If the fronts are worn out due to the general nature of front tyres, then the back tyres should be put at the front and the new pair on the rear. That way you're rotating the tyres for wear and age.
I want the most grip for cornering (front tyres), the most grip for braking (mostly front tyres) and the best traction for putting power down (again the front tyres) - the only retort they could give was that with less grip at the rear the car could become "unpredictable" - seemed pointless getting sticky rubber and using it to hold the back of the car up!
I'll take the slight risk of oversteer (which I can correct) over the much more increased (and much more inevitable) bout of oversteer (which you can't correct)...
Same for the ZT - Federals at the back, shagged Kumho's at the front. New Falken's go on the front...
I've yet to own a car long enough to be able to "properly" rotate the tyres with decent tyres at all four corners.
New tyres front or back good question.
I usually say good tread on drive wheels myself as you want good traction especially when pulling off in the wet, so if front wheel drive then front = new tyres, if rear wheel drive then always the back as they drive and you need good grip there on a rear wheel drive vehicle imho.
Thean again the same can be said for having real good grip on the front for steering.
horses for courses I guess but as they say tyres should be rotated to produce even wear all around.
Since fitting my Kendas I think I have done around 6K or so, lost 1mm from rears I think and 2mm from front iirc. So one set is wearing quicker than the other as they were all done at same time. Time for roataion methinks :rofl:
So I would guess 18K on fronts and 30K plus on rears at present wear rates alhtough 45K on rears may be very hopeful hence why I put 30K plus.
Think I have had my tyres on about a year now.
Simon
I usually say good tread on drive wheels myself as you want good traction especially when pulling off in the wet, so if front wheel drive then front = new tyres, if rear wheel drive then always the back as they drive and you need good grip there on a rear wheel drive vehicle imho.
Thean again the same can be said for having real good grip on the front for steering.
horses for courses I guess but as they say tyres should be rotated to produce even wear all around.
Since fitting my Kendas I think I have done around 6K or so, lost 1mm from rears I think and 2mm from front iirc. So one set is wearing quicker than the other as they were all done at same time. Time for roataion methinks :rofl:
So I would guess 18K on fronts and 30K plus on rears at present wear rates alhtough 45K on rears may be very hopeful hence why I put 30K plus.
Think I have had my tyres on about a year now.
Simon
Either **** tyres or your driving it too hard buddy :rofl:Kumho KU31's - had 7mm 10,000 miles ago when I got the car and are already worn out.
Ooops.
Simon
On my old ZTT i used to get 15k on the front and close to 25k on the rears from Conti's.
My current ZTT got 3k front and rear from Khumos before junking them!:stir:
Currently on Verdistein Sessanta (think thats how you spell it!) that are wearing up very well, 7k and a bit of camber wear and the backs look brand new!
Essential for limiting tyre wear is good alignment.
Jim
My current ZTT got 3k front and rear from Khumos before junking them!:stir:
Currently on Verdistein Sessanta (think thats how you spell it!) that are wearing up very well, 7k and a bit of camber wear and the backs look brand new!
Essential for limiting tyre wear is good alignment.
Jim
the reasoning IRRC for putting new tyres on the back these days is the tyres are no longer washed off in solvent at the factory to remove the chemicals used in manufacture in the mould - so they have to be "worn in" so putting them on the front will result in wheel spin etc and they tyre fitters dont wanna be held responsable fot you sliding into a tree when there is no grip
Ive always put them on the back up to getting the ZS but now fit them on the front as a couple of good wheel spins soon gets rid of any coating
Ive always put them on the back up to getting the ZS but now fit them on the front as a couple of good wheel spins soon gets rid of any coating
Had 190+ facelift from new. It has done done 36k and worm out 3 sets of tyres. Makes no difference if they are brand or bugbet 12 or 13k miles max and all four tyres go at once. Ex rover garage reckons this is normal for V6, so you guys getting 25k think yourselves lucky
I'm Michelin trained to forensically examine for tyre damage/wear/accidents etcI know of Michelin dealers who will ONLY fit new tyres to rear axle for safety reasons, no matter how much you protest.
Ivor.
Michelin have proven that ALWAYS put new tyres/best tyres on the back.
The reasoning and proof is that when rear tyres skid/slide very few people can correct sudden and violent oversteer correctly.
Where as with the front tyres skidding/sliding aka under steer, people tend to lift off the throttle, which is the easiest and quickest way to rectify the situation.
And what if you can (and have) easily controlled snap oversteer...?I'm Michelin trained to examine for tyre damage/wear/accidents etc
Michelin have proven that ALWAYS put new tyres/best tyres on the back.
The reasoning and proof is that when rear tyres skid/slide very few people can correct sudden and violent oversteer correctly.
Where as with the front tyres skidding/sliding aka under steer, people tend to lift off the throttle, which is the easiest and quickest way to rectify the situation.
New to rear. Don't go to 1.6mm IMHO for the sake of a few quid. £15 'ish' a mm per wheel?
Also see http://www.rospa.com/roadsafety/adviceandinformation/vehiclesafety/tyresafety/tread-depth.aspx
I towed for over 15yrs+ probably saves on tyre wear ! (as obviously slower cornering and slow/smooth take off's).
22mpg towing /32mpg non-towing
Also see http://www.rospa.com/roadsafety/adviceandinformation/vehiclesafety/tyresafety/tread-depth.aspx
I towed for over 15yrs+ probably saves on tyre wear ! (as obviously slower cornering and slow/smooth take off's).
22mpg towing /32mpg non-towing
And what if you can (and have) easily controlled snap oversteer...?
Lets be honest..the amount of people who can fully correct sudden oversteer are far rarer than people who cant.
But never the less some people can... thus why I chose to put new tyres at the front - i'd rather something I can control (oversteer) than become a passenger (understeer)Lets be honest..the amount of people who can fully correct sudden oversteer are far rarer than people who cant.
You say you cant control understeer?But never the less some people can... thus why I chose to put new tyres at the front - i'd rather something I can control (oversteer) than become a passenger (understeer)
From my own experince driving and riding everything with wheels and an engine, understeer is a doddle to control compared to oversteer.
Surely common sense would rein?
If you want to have some 'fun' then fair enough. I dont think its sensible to increase the risk to everyone for just you.
No offence meant etc just what I believe from serving as a Black Rat and a Police Instructor too.
1 - 20 of 43 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
MG-Rover.org Forums
A forum community dedicated to MG & Rover owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, troubleshooting, upgrades, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
