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rover_25
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi.

i'm fed up with the crappy factory speakers so i'm going to put a proper (cheap) system in my 2000 25. i was hoping to get some tips from someone who's already done the same thing in this car.

it's going to be 2 compos (JBL GTO 6506Ce or Magnat Classic 2.16), a sub (JBL GTO1200B) and a 4 channel amp (trying to get a 2nd hand JBL GTO4000 for cheap on ebay). i've got the same basic questions that have already been answered 100 times but i'm looking for 200/25 specific ideas.

i guess the amp is best placed in the boot? then i would run the power cable down one side and the speaker cables / HU outputs on the other side. i thought about putting the amp under the passenger seat to have shorter cables and less hassle but nobody seems to do that for some reason.

whereabouts in the firewall can i thread my power line through?

how do i attach the amp to the floor? drill holes in the floor and screw the amp in? or is there a less permanent way? connect the ground wire to one of the back seat bolts?

i want to connect the amp outputs to the ISO plug behind the head unit to tap into the factory wiring so that i don't have to thread cable into the doors. good idea?

can i mount the crossovers in the doors? is there something good in there to stick them to?

if the crossovers are not in the doors then i've got 2 pairs of wires to thread into each door. how do i get the cables from wherever my crossovers are and into the door? and where in this car can i mount the crossovers?

sound deadening in these doors. worth it?

do tweeters sound okay in the factory location in these doors, or should i try to mount them somewhere on the dashboard or pillars pointing towards my ears? are there any brands of speaker with stick-on or easily mounted tweeters? i don't want to be cutting holes in anything that shouldn't have holes in it.

i don't want to make any mdf mounts - no tools, no skills. is there any brand or model which is known to just pop straight in and fit? 16.5cm should be a pretty standard size, right?

it sounds like you have to break the door pull to get the cards off. is there a trick to keep it intact? my car only has one already and i can't find a replacement.

that just about does it. thanks for any tips you can give me based on your experience. i'm looking forward to posting pics of me royally ****ing this up :D

michael
 

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quite a lot to cover here fella so i'll do my best to answer as many of your questions as possible.

1) You can situate your amp where ever you want. I have located amps under seats and in the boot before. In the boot you can make a display of it and it's easier to alter the amps settings for fine tuning, under the seat it's tucked out of the way and leaves you with more boot space. either or! You're right with the cabling, run power down one side and you phono leads and speaker wiring down the other.

2) With regards to wiring the front comps off the amp i found it easiest to tap the wires at the back of the head unit and using the OE feeds that run to the doors so you're bang on there. Tweeters can be mounted in the doors where there are pre-existing mounts and grills for them, easily done and the crossovers can either be hidden away behind the doorcard or mounted on the front somewhere if you'd like to display them.

3) Sound deadening is definately worth it. The biggest problem you're bound to encounter is the weather seal (plastic sheet behind the door card) having holes in it and making a horrid farting sound when the speakers are turned up. I have found the cheapest and easiest way to combat this is to get a role of duct tape and go over the entire sheet and round the edges making sure it is air tight, this will also work as dampening to a certain extent. Dynamat or alternative can be added at your discretion but with your budget it's probably not a worth while or viable option.

4) Tweeters sound fine in the factory location. If for whatever reason you'd prefer them on the dash facing you then you will have to stray from factory wiring, which it doesn't sound like you are keen on doing. I would just stick with the OE mounts for them in the doors, a lot simpler.

5) The woofers for the componant sets should be 16.5 cm's. You will need to mount these away from the door skins. you will notice when you remover the OE ones that they are made mounted in a spacer. You can either modify these by very simply cutting the old speaker out of the mount, or you can make some new out of MDF (which you say you don't want to do). You may be able to buy these mounts, i'm not 100% but modifying you existing ones will work fine, just be ruthless!

6) Depends how tactful you are with doorcards as to whether you will damage the door pulls. If you are careful enough and take your time with a thin screwdriver and cloth you should be able to get them off without much damage, but it's not the end of the world if you muck it up...you can always replace them.

My advice would be to take your time with it, give youself a good day for it just incase something goes wrong. Make sure you've checked you have all the cables and connectors you'll need (you really don't want to get half way through a job to find you're missing something!) The most frustrating part i've found is laying wires to the back of the car, hard to do without taking the door cars and panels out but then this takes longer. If you want to do it right first time and save yourself lots of scrapes and cuts on the hands (and agro) i would suggest taking out you rear bench and rear three-quarter panels but then this is up to you and it can be avoided.

Enjoy!
Mike
 

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rover_25
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks mike, that's brilliant, you rock!

miker200 said:
i would suggest taking out you rear bench and rear three-quarter panels
you mean completely remove the entire back seat arse section, right? i'll have to do it in secret so the missus doesn't freak out :shh:
 

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No worries bud, Some people will argue that you don't need to do this, and they're right...but i know having done it many times before that it makes life a hell of a lot easier, and you'll end up with a neater job. You'll need to take the entire rear seat out to get the rear quarter panels out (that's if you have a 3 door, not sure about the 5 door!) Best of luck though.
 

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Miker200 has pretty much covered it for you there!

With regards to wiring the power cable through the firewall, there is a rubber grommet just below where the coolant expansion tank is situated in the engine bay. I simply stuck a screwdriver through this, took the glovebox out and located the screwdriver. I then threaded the power cable through, and run the power cable up the passenger side of the car.

I managed to install my soundsystem into a 3 door 200 twice without having to remove the rear bench and three quarter panels, by running the cables behind the bench and forcing them underneath the panel. Removing the panels is probably the absolute best way to do it, but I didnt encounter any problems with my method.

Finally, I have mounted my amp in the boot, on a wall which I made out of MDF http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g155/tomp216si/DSC00021.jpg .You did mention that you weren't keen on doing much work on mounts etc, but just thought I would suggest it, as I found difficulty in mounting the amp anywhere else in the boot which was out of the way. I did try screwing it to the back of the rear seats, but it wasnt very secure. Also, I screwed it to the sub box, which worked quite well, and is what i would suggest if you are not keen on making the 'wall' as I call it!!

Hope that helps!

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
tom, thanks for that. i'm 'concerned' that i'm not going to find any holes with grommets because i have air conditioning (apparently that's why the biggest hole is often free on cars with no A/C) and it's left-hand drive so my expansion tank is on the passenger side but the battery is on the driver's side. doesn't matter, my girlfriend's clever and has small hands :devil:

your wall is cool! where did you get the matching carpet? and what's the fan for, are the amp's fins on the other side of the wall, or..?

thanks again guys!
 

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Its just standard sub box carpet from motor world, which I stuck on upside down as I thought it matched up better!! The fan is for keeping the amp cooler. There is a large hole behind where the amp is mounted, and the an sucks air in, meaning thre is better air flow behind the amplifer, hopefully keeping it cooler! Just an idea I had, but also looks pretty cool aesthetically I reckon!

Sorry, but what do you mean by the 'amp's fins?'
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i thought all amps had cooling fins, like bikes and VW beetles and yours looks pretty flat on the top, so i thought they were on the other side... :dunno:

obviously not :p

anyway i had a lot of fun on ebay this last week, had some nice people and a lot of ebay dummies and now i'm waiting for all my gear to arrive in dribs and drabs. should all be here by the weekend and then i hope i'll find some time next week to finally put it in the car, now that i know EXACTLY how to do it! :D

thanks for all the tips, i will be posting pics, even if nobody but me cares :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just one more thing guys, it seems that there's this thin sheet of polythene between the door card and the inner frame, to protect the door from moisture.



you don't need to remove it just to do a speaker swap but if you're putting deadening in (and i am) what do you do? just detach one side, install the deadening and then stick it back, or do you throw it away? you'd have to keep it so water doesn't get in, right?

also about covering the holes to make a nice acoustic seal. there's some very large gaps in the inner panel, i will seal them, but what about these little holes? there's a pair just down and left from the speaker and another just down and right from the big gap at the top left. should i seal every hole?

thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
ahh, miker200 answered the plastic sheet thing already. sorry mate, when you said plastic sheet i thought it would be something solid, not a shopping bag. so i can detach say 2 of the edges and do my deadening and then put it back and tape it up, right?
i'm gonna look for me glasses now :D
 

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MichaelBRG said:
tom, thanks for that. i'm 'concerned' that i'm not going to find any holes with grommets because i have air conditioning (apparently that's why the biggest hole is often free on cars with no A/C) and it's left-hand drive so my expansion tank is on the passenger side but the battery is on the driver's side. doesn't matter, my girlfriend's clever and has small hands quote]

took me forever to find a hole through the firewall on my car,I have A/C and had been told of the hole beneath the coolant tank but there didnt seem to be any space for another wire through there on my car. After much searching I found a hole just to the right of the accelerator pedal behind the carpet. small bit of rubber that just popped through when pushed leaving a hole in jus tthe right place :)
 

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had a canny few doors off in my time , whats a door pull , only problem ive had with doors is the plastic pins that hold them in sometimes snap
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
offkilter said:
MichaelBRG said:
tom, thanks for that. i'm 'concerned' that i'm not going to find any holes with grommets because i have air conditioning (apparently that's why the biggest hole is often free on cars with no A/C) and it's left-hand drive so my expansion tank is on the passenger side but the battery is on the driver's side. doesn't matter, my girlfriend's clever and has small hands quote]

took me forever to find a hole through the firewall on my car,I have A/C and had been told of the hole beneath the coolant tank but there didnt seem to be any space for another wire through there on my car. After much searching I found a hole just to the right of the accelerator pedal behind the carpet. small bit of rubber that just popped through when pushed leaving a hole in jus tthe right place :)
i ended up using the A/C hole under the expansion tank my passenger side. the A/C connection coming through the grommet was just a thin rubber hosepipe thing going into a plug. pulled it off and pulled the grommet out and then put my power cable through the grommet alongside this hose. the hose is a bit squashed because it's so soft but the A/C still works fine and has been very welcome in the last week :)

i spent an hour looking for somewhere to get the cable through before choosing this hole though...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
gangsteral said:
had a canny few doors off in my time , whats a door pull , only problem ive had with doors is the plastic pins that hold them in sometimes snap
i meant these plastic covers on the inside door handles which you have to pop off to reveal the three big screws. haynes calls them escutcheons but i never heard that word in me life before :)

did you ever run cables into the doors? my tweeters are really pretty harsh and i'm not really enjoying them. they are very much off-axis in the standard door location so i'm going to try them on the dash to see if that makes them any sweeter. so then i need to run a cable through the door, through the pipe carrying the OE loom. can't see how to do that without having the doors completely off. :(
 
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