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Hello there this is the thread on my turbo.
134897


Enjoying it so far. Plans so far are to sort out the ‘small things’, these include;

1. Replace the snapped electric aerial
2. Repaint the spoiler as it’s badly faded and the lacquer has gone.
3. Repaint the wiper arms.
4. Replace the alternator. I’m hoping I can get away with just the regulator pack. Once I can identify the correct part and if I can replace it without having to remove the alternator I’ll do this. Otherwise it’s forking out for a new alternator and paying a garage to do it.
5. Get the gearbox rebuilt for my own peace of mind.

Next year I’ll be looking to respray the front end and get the back arches done as the bottoms are starting to go. Filled them in for now. I also will be looking into rebuilding the engine. Not that there is anything wrong with if. I’m thinking about maybe going down the forged route maybe extract some horsepower and do some track days. I don’t know we’ll see. Plans are a ‘reliable’ 250bhp.

I’m currently in the Navy so finding time to do things is hard and then when I am home I have two kids to contend with.

Thanks for reading!
 

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Did a few bits on the ti today.

Repainted the spoiler. Before and after below.
Redid the wiper arms.

I got some genuine mats and aerial this morning as the old one was snapped. Wasn’t as straight forward as I had hoped as the aerial was also snapped down in the motor so that was taken to bits. Reassembled and after feeding the new one in thought all was good when testing. Going up and down as it should. I then popped the aerial back up though the panel, everything back in place and the aerial goes up fine but on the way down stops about halfway and I have to pop it down by hand. I’ll fettle with it more another time I had enough in the end.
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Lovely pic and nice car. Congrats! :love:
Any more information about your car? Year, miles, ownership, some more pics etc... (y)
 

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Rover 620ti
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Lovely looking Ti

The alternators really arent that difficult to replace, IIRC its 3 bolts to loosen it, remove the belt and unhook the 2 power leads, assuming you have a basic socket set you should be able to do it yourself easily.

Is the engine modified at all? one quick easy thing to do is remove the torque limiter by removing the little boost control valve, it should be located down the side of the battery attached to the battery tray, for this though you WILL need the steel caged bearings in the gearbox.

The issue with the later T-series is the heat when you turn the boost past 12psi, this heat causes the piston rings to expand and the gap touches which break the piston ringlands, if you want the super cheap way to more power then remove the pistons, gap new rings to be larger and away you go, its still a pain to do but if you only want a little more BHP then its far cheaper than a fully forged setup, be warned though a bigger intercooler is required pretty much off the bat. this is assuming its a later model car (with wasted spark) i believe the earlier ones had a different problem.

Looking forward to seeing how this build progresses, i need to do the spoiler and wiper arms on mine though sadly i have a Kinversand orange one which is an absolute pain to find paint for.
 

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Lovely looking Ti

The alternators really arent that difficult to replace, IIRC its 3 bolts to loosen it, remove the belt and unhook the 2 power leads, assuming you have a basic socket set you should be able to do it yourself easily.

Is the engine modified at all? one quick easy thing to do is remove the torque limiter by removing the little boost control valve, it should be located down the side of the battery attached to the battery tray, for this though you WILL need the steel caged bearings in the gearbox.

The issue with the later T-series is the heat when you turn the boost past 12psi, this heat causes the piston rings to expand and the gap touches which break the piston ringlands, if you want the super cheap way to more power then remove the pistons, gap new rings to be larger and away you go, its still a pain to do but if you only want a little more BHP then its far cheaper than a fully forged setup, be warned though a bigger intercooler is required pretty much off the bat. this is assuming its a later model car (with wasted spark) i believe the earlier ones had a different problem.

Looking forward to seeing how this build progresses, i need to do the spoiler and wiper arms on mine though sadly i have a Kinversand orange one which is an absolute pain to find paint for.
I don’t mind tackling small jobs. Like servicing, removing easily accessible stuff. I’ve changed alternators on previous cars but they were a Ford Orion and a Cavalier with no air con, no power steering and they had a very simple belt system that took me less than 30 minutes to change. I looked at the belt on this and thought hmmm. That belt looks scary. How would I tighten/loose the belt etc...

The only modification is a Mongoose exhaust which suits it very well. Nice noise but doesn’t drone.

I want forged as I plan to do track days with this next year and want the reliability. It’s done 96,000 miles so I’m thinking long term. I also use this to drive from Manchester to Portsmouth so thinking about the longevity of the engine. I’ve done 3,000 miles so far and it hasn’t used any oil. Bar the slight weep from the cursed cam cover. Got one on order and will do that soon. Yes this is the dizzy-less.

I enjoyed reading your thread as I want to go done a similar route as you. Lovely colour!
 

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Rover 620ti
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The belt is very easy to remove, there is a sprung tensioner that you apply a socket to and pull back and the belt comes loose, you can just remove the belt from the alternator, there is no need to remove the belt entirely, if you do decide to have a go and get stuck then let me know, i can probably take some pics or a video of how to get the belt on and off, otherwise it should be less than an hours work for any competent garage, hell even the cam belt on these engines are nice and easy to do compared to say my fiat panda (and that only has 1 cam pulley!)

I have a powerflow on mine and honestly i am not overly impressed, the welds are very amateur looking and some of the bends are rather restrictive, there was also a very restrictive plate coming from ahem where the cat is supposed to be, might look up a mongoose system, or just bite the bullet and get a custom one

to put your mind at ease the T-series engine is a very tough old beast, so long as you keep it around 12psi on stock internals it will happily chug about all day long, my first track day was done on a stock intercooler and fully stock internals, blasted about all day and the only thing that went wrong was a CV boot came off, since then i have replaced the intercooler, fitted a GT2860RS turbo, fresh coil pack with magnacor leads running a Greddy boost controller and have had 0 issues with the engine (minus the silly wastegate issue) it doesn't use oil or coolant and has covered 120,000 miles whilst still on stock internals and as far as i am aware the same oil pump it left the factory with.
 

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The belt is very easy to remove, there is a sprung tensioner that you apply a socket to and pull back and the belt comes loose, you can just remove the belt from the alternator, there is no need to remove the belt entirely, if you do decide to have a go and get stuck then let me know, i can probably take some pics or a video of how to get the belt on and off, otherwise it should be less than an hours work for any competent garage, hell even the cam belt on these engines are nice and easy to do compared to say my fiat panda (and that only has 1 cam pulley!)

I have a powerflow on mine and honestly i am not overly impressed, the welds are very amateur looking and some of the bends are rather restrictive, there was also a very restrictive plate coming from ahem where the cat is supposed to be, might look up a mongoose system, or just bite the bullet and get a custom one

to put your mind at ease the T-series engine is a very tough old beast, so long as you keep it around 12psi on stock internals it will happily chug about all day long, my first track day was done on a stock intercooler and fully stock internals, blasted about all day and the only thing that went wrong was a CV boot came off, since then i have replaced the intercooler, fitted a GT2860RS turbo, fresh coil pack with magnacor leads running a Greddy boost controller and have had 0 issues with the engine (minus the silly wastegate issue) it doesn't use oil or coolant and has covered 120,000 miles whilst still on stock internals and as far as i am aware the same oil pump it left the factory with.
Well I’ve ordered a regulator. If it’s not the right one I’ll find an alternator and have a stab. On that note, when you fitted the larger inter cooler, did you remove the air conditioning compressor or just the pipe work? Is your 28 a genuine Garrett? When I search them all I find is the £120 ebay specials. I’m debating if the t25 can be rebuilt/upgraded at a specialist somehow.

I do look after it. I’m religious with oil changes. I warm it up, let it idle before turning it off. I’m avoiding 1st gear launches until the gearbox is done. If anything I do drive slow. I enjoy the fact I do not have to work the engine hard to get up to speed. It’s a perfect cruiser and I am confident it’s gets more mpg (on a run) than some 1.8’s, 1.6’s and even some 1.0’s.

Your experience is giving me more confidence. Infact I know an example with over 200,000 miles!
 

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The compressor is still in place though sadly i am still working out what to do with the matrix, it had to be removed and (in my case) the bonnet latch needed modifying, i have an idea to replace the fans with slimline ones and hopefully mound the rad a little further back so i can sandwich the matrix upside down in between the cooler and rad, thats the idea anyway.

The turbo is a genuine GT2860RS (disco potato) it was second hand at the time as i was in a rush, it needed minor modifications to fit, mostly oil feed and return lines, i honestly wouldnt bother with the standard turbo, the exhaust housing cracks which gives all manner of problems, theres a good website here: Rover-T16 that sell turbo's, i got my intercooler from them.

the most i have ever got from the t-series is roughly 35mpg, which isnt actually all that bad for an old iron block rover motor, if you keep off the turbo it is fairly frugal but as soon as it spins up you can basically see the gauge going down, on track i was going through half a tank in roughly 20 minutes, full tank of juice in an hour (which funnily enough was more than the Mclaren also going round)
 
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