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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
update from this thead i have now had my head skimmed
i have lapped/refited all values

now

do i fit the cams/cam carrier with the head off then torque the head down ?
or do i torque the head down then fit the cams/cam carrier ?
 

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other_manufacturer
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ocwasere said:
update from this thead i have now had my head skimmed
i have lapped/refited all values

now

do i fit the cams/cam carrier with the head off then torque the head down ?
or do i torque the head down then fit the cams/cam carrier ?
Rebuild the head then fit and torque down and it'll be easier refitting the cams with the head not fitted to the engine. Wouldn't want any bolts going missing ;)

Bolts need to be done in the following sequence. Tighten all bolts to 20nm, back to the start and turn all bolts through 180 degrees, and back to the start and turn all the bolts through another 180 degrees.

 

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I fitted the head first then the carrier but only so it wouldnt be slithering around on the floor.So up to you probably best first but its no hassle after the head is on.plus it makes the head more manageable but then I do have an alloy inlet which made it a beast to handle so I removed everything to aid an easier refit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks
i will assemble the cams with the head of the engine if it doen't matter

one more quetion if i may

some of my hydraulic followers are spongey and the others are rock soild
is this a problem or not if so which are right (spongey or rock soild)
 

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I'm sorry, but what does it mean "Tighten all bolts to 20nm" ?
how can do you know you tightened them to 20nm?

I'm curious because my k series is being rebuilt tomorrow, so I'm on the lookout for any tips and advices on how to remount it properly.
 

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ocwasere said:
Thanks
i will assemble the cams with the head of the engine if it doen't matter

one more quetion if i may

some of my hydraulic followers are spongey and the others are rock soild
is this a problem or not if so which are right (spongey or rock soild)
Better to assemble the carrier off the engine. So much easier to fit the camshaft oil seals with the head off the block.

The followers should really be rock hard, but if your engine isn't tappety don't worry about it.

I just replaced 16 followers last week for £55. No more tappety valve train noises.
Car felt smoother too, don't know if that's in me head though?:dunno:
 

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r0ver said:
I'm sorry, but what does it mean "Tighten all bolts to 20nm" ?
how can do you know you tightened them to 20nm?

I'm curious because my k series is being rebuilt tomorrow, so I'm on the lookout for any tips and advices on how to remount it properly.
You need a torque wrench to torque the bolts up to 20nm and then after that they are angle tightened.
 

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this might sound stupid, but how do you use the torque wrentch to bolt them to 20nm?

my question is how you know you reached that mesure?
 

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r0ver said:
this might sound stupid, but how do you use the torque wrentch to bolt them to 20nm?

my question is how you know you reached that mesure?
The torque wrench has a gauge on it that you can set the break point on. When you reach the specified torque point the torque wrench will 'break' and click to let you know you've tightened to that amount.
 

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Do it like surgery and follow the correct tighening sequence carefully.

1. all bolts to 20NM not lbft.

2.same sequence all bolts 180 deg or half a turn use a pen on the bolt head to mark the position after 20NM

3.all bolts in same sequence to 180 deg should bring them back to where they started in step 2.

HTH
 
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