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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Right, was installing my ICE today, but encountered a few problems...
The kit I was installing consists of: 1000w Amp; 500w Subwoofer; Front Component Speakers; 1000w Wiring Kit.

1) I couldn't get the amp to remain on. When I hooked it up the green light would go on for half a second, then would change to a red light (I presume this is the stand-by light? Instructions say nothing). After literally hours of fiddling with the cabling I managed to get it to power-up... by bridging the power cable onto both the power terminal and remote terminal!!! WTF!?!?!?

2) The Amp remains ON even when the keys have been removed from the ignition, so I presume that's to do with the remote cable? I've had to route this directly into the back of the plug which goes directly into the headunit as the cable I was advised to hook the remote cable to was missing. I doubt this would be the reason, but could I be wrong? The connection is kinda dodgy, but I doubt it would matter as long as the connections are fully touching?

Could it be related to the dodgy power connections in the Amp itself? As I said, the power cable is hooked into the both the power and remote terminals, however there is still room to jook the remote cable into its terminal without it touching the power cable.

3) The front speakers aren't working. Well, one of the tweeters had an ever so slight sound coming from it when I cranked-up the gain, but nothing from the other one? What could be causing this? They are all wired properly so again I'm thinking it's an amp problem.

I can't even get a refund as I bought it from Germany and would cost me more to send it back than it actually cost me in the first place! :indiff: :O

Any help on the matter would be greatly appreciated :)
 

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Another TJ thread that I am strangely drawn to.....:eyes:

Most head units have a Blue wire that can be used for remote switching, failing that one of the wires in the original MG-R loom will go to 12 volts when the ignition is switched on ....a Green/White wire IIRC, this could be used.

If the remote terminal is connected to the amps 12 volt supply then it will remain constantly switched on.

How many channels does the amp have?

Any details... make, model no. etc?

Does the sub work even though the fronts aren't?



...answers on a postcard to..


:haha:
 

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Hi, i would have thought a 1000w amp with a 500 sub would stand a high risk of killing the sub when turned up to higher volumes!!??
Anyway, the remote wire should really be taken from your ignition live. The reason the amp remains on is because you have wired it from your permanent live instead of ignition live. You can either take a live direct from the fusebox or ignition switch, but is probably easier to take it from the back of the stereo itself. As for the speakers not working, i would sort the above wiring out first, then wire in the speakers again from scratch. Make sure the amp has a good earth, and remember, the shorter the earth lead the better!! Hope this helps.
Kris
 

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slashformayor said:
Hi, i would have thought a 1000w amp with a 500 sub would stand a high risk of killing the sub when turned up to higher volumes!!??
Anyway, the remote wire should really be taken from your ignition live. The reason the amp remains on is because you have wired it from your permanent live instead of ignition live. You can either take a live direct from the fusebox or ignition switch, but is probably easier to take it from the back of the stereo itself. As for the speakers not working, i would sort the above wiring out first, then wire in the speakers again from scratch. Make sure the amp has a good earth, and remember, the shorter the earth lead the better!! Hope this helps.
Kris
12v from the back of the head unit? :err:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It's cool folks, managed to fix it thanks to help from a neighbour... he pushed the "ON" switch... :err: :O

Cheers folks :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I was just joking you bunch of slack-jawed yokels! I had the remote wire wired into the wrong wire's wire :err:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Mike200SEi said:
Oh I see!!! Much clearer???

You connected the remote in to the perm 12V didnt you?
Nah mate... according to my HU instruction book I had to wire it to a pink/black wire... no such wire existed, so I bodged it... turns out that where I bodged it to did absolutely f-all, and I in actual fact had to hook it to a completely different wire :irked:
 
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