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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Gas Tints and shades Bumper Composite material Wood


Bought a hard top recently via eBay and the seller advised me after I had paid that the electrics ‘might need rewriting’🤦🏼‍♂️
As can be seen from the photo, one of the spade connectors has snapped leaving a couple of mm attached to the element. I’m a bit hesitant to go at it with a soldering iron. Any suggestions or words of wisdom would be very much appreciated thanks!
 

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If you use liquid flux and a reasonable large soldering iron, you should be ok.Thee secret to soldering is cleanliness and sweating, rather than loading with solder. Best done indoors in the warm in this weather- not on the car in the rain.
Ive not got my TF anymore but I know the issue- it takes care to remove and often a job thats rushed with disastrous consequences. It's easy to forget to unplug the loom and remove the aerial. I always waited till i had an able bodied person to give me a hand with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If you use liquid flux and a reasonable large soldering iron, you should be ok.Thee secret to soldering is cleanliness and sweating, rather than loading with solder. Best done indoors in the warm in this weather- not on the car in the rain.
Ive not got my TF anymore but I know the issue- it takes care to remove and often a job thats rushed with disastrous consequences. It's easy to forget to unplug the loom and remove the aerial. I always waited till i had an able bodied person to give me a hand with it.
Thank you. Would you remove or repair the existing? I was thinking of flattening one of these and soldering it to the stump??
Light Artifact Art Font Circle
 

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I would do similar but use a copper one for heat-transfer of the solder. Ive repaired radiators in the past and heat transfere is key to a sound solder joint. You also need a strom material as you will be unpluging every year twice. Before you go to any trouble- have you checked it for continuity?
 

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I'd preheat the area with a hairdryer first to be on the safe side, glass can crack under thermal stress.

Flux is the key, it wouldn't hurt hitting anything to be soldered with wire wool first to get rid of any oxide layer, then flux it, pre-tin a new terminal if you're adding one, then solder quickly with an iron with a chunky bit.

Also, proper tin/lead solder might be better than the new lead-free stuff, it has a slightly lower melting point. Solder paste rather than solder wire would be best, but tubs of it are very expensive. If you need to remove any solder, wipe with a very slightly damp cloth or sponge whilst molten.
 

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04 MGTF Sunstorm 135. VW Arteon RLine 2.0 TSi. Vauxhall Corsa 1.4 SE
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I would do similar but use a copper one for heat-transfer of the solder. Ive repaired radiators in the past and heat transfere is key to a sound solder joint. You also need a strom material as you will be unpluging every year twice. Before you go to any trouble- have you checked it for continuity?
I haven’t got a meter unfortunately
 

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Steve I would check out for continuity first or your repair may be pointless, a battery a bulb and some wire will tell you if there is continuity even if the bulb glows dimly it will show the circuit is complete. Once you have fixed it make sure you secure the cable firmly to the hardtop in a way that does not put any strain on the joint, then in future you can faff about with the plug as much as you like.
 

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I forgot to add I applaud Chris T's offer and would be inclined to accept it 2 heads are always better then one and he may even have a meter!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Steve I would check out for continuity first or your repair may be pointless, a battery a bulb and some wire will tell you if there is continuity even if the bulb glows dimly it will show the circuit is complete. Once you have fixed it make sure you secure the cable firmly to the hardtop in a way that does not put any strain on the joint, then in future you can faff about with the plug as much as you like.
Good idea with the bulb and battery thanks. Presume it’s between the two terminal points? A visual inspection shows no obvious breaks but I’ll do as you suggest thanks 🙏
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Good idea with the bulb and battery thanks. Presume it’s between the two terminal points? A visual inspection shows no obvious breaks but I’ll do as you suggest thanks 🙏
I was also thinking that I’d seen something somewhere where a ‘soft substance?’ was put on the glass around where the heat was to be applied and it had the effect of spreading the heat?
 

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Yes just connect to the 2 terminals so the HRW is in the circuit, HRW sometimes have a break somewhere on the glass that is not obvious to the naked eye. No idea about the paste the only one I know is cold front? which does the opposite and stops heat spreading when welding?
Have a look on uTube I'm sure there will be vids of someone doing exactly what your doing.
Good luck and let us know how you get on, we all love a happy ending :)
 

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I must be bored today, typed in "heated rear window repair" repair on utube and there are various vids some using silver glue not solder to effect a repair and the kits are on ebay etc. I'm not endorsing these products because I have no idea if they work, has anyone on here used them and if so what was the result?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I must be bored today, typed in "heated rear window repair" repair on utube and there are various vids some using silver glue not solder to effect a repair and the kits are on ebay etc. I'm not endorsing these products because I have no idea if they work, has anyone on here used them and if so what was the result?
I saw these too. Wasn’t sure if they were just for repairing a break in the element. I too would be interested if anyone has used this type of product for repairing the spade connectors, and how they’ve stood the test of time.
 

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I stuck the question on the MGOC general forum with little feedback so far but what there is says:

The conductive paint for the element seems hit and miss

One person successfully used the epoxy for a repair like yours but it did take time to cure (hairdryer?) but no one has said it didn't work (as yet)

There is a vid on utube with someone using a soldering iron but I haven't had time to view it, it might be worth a look to see how they overcome the heat prob
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I stuck the question on the MGOC general forum with little feedback so far but what there is says:

The conductive paint for the element seems hit and miss

One person successfully used the epoxy for a repair like yours but it did take time to cure (hairdryer?) but no one has said it didn't work (as yet)

There is a vid on utube with someone using a soldering iron but I haven't had time to view it, it might be worth a look to see how they overcome the heat prob
Great thanks! I’ll have a look 👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The historic post entitled
Hardtop, rear screen connector fallen off
2012 gives me a little more confidence to solder (using hairdryer to pre-heat as suggested earlier) given my base plate is still attached to the glass and I’ve to solder (or epoxy glue) metal to metal. Would still like to know what epoxy to use as I don’t think the conductive paint will be up to the job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Several years ago I used this to connect some wires to several window elements - 2* Silver Conductive 0.2ML Glue-Wire Electrically-Paste Adhesive Paint PCB Repa | eBay. Still good.

Regarding the best methodology no idea - I had to have a couple of goes before I got it right. The good news is that it is easy to clear up the mess on previous attempts.
Thanks Julian - do you think it would’ve strong enough to glue a spade connector to the stump of the old spade connector? Cheers
 
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