Going to look at a ZT

Too many here buy cars with defective clutches----auto would resolve that problem/ expenditure
Good luck!

Martyn P said:

Too many here buy cars with defective clutches----auto would resolve that problem/ expenditure
Good luck!

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Or just budget a replacement in the cost of the car, don't worry to much about the clutch, just be aware.

If looking at diesels then this common faults checklist of mine should help you find a good one or at least negotiate enough money off one to rectify problems it may have.

Good luck
Simon

Rover 75 top ten tips.doc (34.0 KB, 237 views)

Many thanks for the top tips

Are you saying the auto gearbox better and more reliable than manual?

win2kpro said:

Many thanks for the top tips

Are you saying the auto gearbox better and more reliable than manual?

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The auto does not have the clutch associated problems, but autos when they go wrong can be very costly to put right, although we don't often hear of many failed or very problematic auto boxes on here.

The problem with the auto is the tax cost rises to £235 a year I think, my manual is only £155 a year a big premium each year to have an auto imho.

In fsct the manual gearbox is great never really hear of failed boxes, it's the clutch hydraulics that is the problem, slave and master cylinders.

Simon

so in essence at £350 for a clutch , once youve paid the extra £80 in tax for 5 years your loosing money on an auto - id like a clutch to last longer than 5 years

Don't forget the auto is thirstier and slower too. I would only consider a diesel auto if buying a 75 as it suits the character of the 75 far better than that of the ZT.

It's a tricky call - The main reason I have an auto is that my wife is partially disabled and her left leg is weak so working a clutch causes her some considerable pain.

I dont think the 10 bhp make much difference, it is certainly a thirsty beast, I think probably 3 to 4 mpg worse than a 190 (which isnt that great on fuel consumption anyway) -

However clutches and mater cylinders are expensive .. Beech Hill (recommended by many) charge £812 for a full clutch replacement including master cylinder and more of the Flywheel needs changing as well

On a 190 I guess you might pay £1000 on repairs to this area in 5 years, on the auto, maybe £100 or so for a fluid change - Extra fuel, extra tax, it;s probably as broad as it;s long - With a little luck.

Thanks for the info all, I'll pop along this afternoon and have a gander at it - it'll probably be completely unsuitable, but it looks lovely where it is sat by the roadside so I'd be a fool not to have a look hehe!

BMW Mike said:

I dont think the 10 bhp make much difference, it is certainly a thirsty beast, I think probably 3 to 4 mpg worse than a 190 (which isnt that great on fuel consumption anyway)

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Are you comparing performance between a 1.8 na ZT and CDTi...? On the road performance difference is huge.

BMW Mike said:

However clutches and mater cylinders are expensive .. Beech Hill (recommended by many) charge £812 for a full clutch replacement including master cylinder and more of the Flywheel needs changing as well

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Hardly, the job can be done at many places for less than £400 - many recommended on here, so the cost isn't so big at all, infact it can be worked into the cost of purchase. Flywheels aren't commonly replaced on the ZT, but if they need to be, its very easily noticeable when looking.

Thinking about the difference between an Auto Kv6 and a Manual Kv6,

The difference between CDTI and the 1.8 is big if the diesel isnt tuned but with the extra bits the difference can be made up so I believe.

As to the cost of clutch repairs, I took the price from the Beech Hill Web site for "fixed price repairs" - It's a bit of an academic excercise for my car since I have the auto - most likely it can be done cheaper and well however there are some tales of woe in the area of clutches and flywheels on this forum, If it was to bite me I would want to be very careful - but as always shopping around can save money.

BMW Mike said:

Thinking about the difference between an Auto Kv6 and a Manual Kv6,

The difference between CDTI and the 1.8 is big if the diesel isnt tuned but with the extra bits the difference can be made up so I believe.

As to the cost of clutch repairs, I took the price from the Beech Hill Web site for "fixed price repairs" - It's a bit of an academic excercise for my car since I have the auto - most likely it can be done cheaper and well however there are some tales of woe in the area of clutches and flywheels on this forum, If it was to bite me I would want to be very careful - but as always shopping around can save money.

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I really don't think the 120 would be able to keep up with a standard turbo diesel with the 135 map tbh. Now if you were comparing the 160 turbo against the cdti then fair enough but the OP is looking at a 120 version not the turbo version.

Simon

BMW Mike said:

It's a tricky call - The main reason I have an auto is that my wife is partially disabled and her left leg is weak so working a clutch causes her some considerable pain..

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My ZTT190 which I have just part exchanged, had a very heavy clutch, which I would say would probably be a problem for your wife, and to me spoilt some of the pleasure of driving the car, especially in traffic!!
It also suffered from a squeaky clutch pedal, which was annoying and it's possible it was because the hydraulics were on their way out.

Booo, after all that it was a 190 :lol:

Might have a look around and see if there are any decent 75's, my heart would like a ZT but my head says a 75 would suit me better.

There again, my head also says to stick with my perfectly adequate 45 :lol:

simcor said:

I really don't think the 120 would be able to keep up with a standard turbo diesel with the 135 map tbh. Now if you were comparing the 160 turbo against the cdti then fair enough but the OP is looking at a 120 version not the turbo version.

Simon

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Agree, I was meaning the NA 1.8, not the 1.8T.