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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve got the usual gearbox whine you get from a ti and was going to change the fluid anyway, would anyone recommend adding a bit of that zx1 stuff to it?
 

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I don't own a ti, but generally I stay away from any kind of additives. The big companies making lubricants spend lots of money to formulate high quality competitive products and verify their effectiveness. If you start adding some other product it's probably as likely to make things worse rather than better. Some chemicals are just incompatible.

B
 

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mg_zt_t
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First thing to say is what Lubricant is in the Gearbox? It should be MTF 94 and the dry Box needs 2.2 litres of MTF94.

My 620ti PG1s do not possess the "usual" whine. If yours does, then something is not right.

Twelve years ago I bought a cheap 620ti with a noisy gearbox and iffy 4th and 5th gears. Obviously needed a Gearbox rebuild so prior to removal, I drained the Gearbox's lubricant... about a large cup full drained out.

These gearboxes are sometimes accused of being weak. They are not. The best gearboxes in the world will soon become weakened if there's insufficient lubricant in the box.

Main cause of Gearbox lubricant loss in most gearboxes is from uncaring heavy handed removal and fitting of the inner CV-Joint when renewing a worn Rubber Boot/ Gaitor. Driveshaft removal on the PG1 gearboxes can be difficult. Impatience can cause the seals to be damaged allowing lubricant to escape. There is a "knack" to drive-shaft removal which took me a few driveshaft removals before I twigged.

I recently renewed the Pesky CCSC ( Concentric Clutch Slave Cylinder ) in my MG ZT-T 1.8T. Nasty process as the Slave is located INSIDE the bell housing which means the Gearbox has to be removed to renew the slave. I was pleasantly surprised that both driveshafts were easy to pull out of their differential housings with a simple light tug. Have worked on about a dozen PG1 Boxes and it is rare that their Driveshafts come out with a simple tug. Some do though and the all important seals are rarely damaged that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yep I do think it’ll need a rebuild but for now I think it’ll be a change of mtf 94 and see how we go
 

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Given it's meant to reduce friction you could find that it's not much help on the TorSen diff, which is meant to "sense" and react to differences in torque to ensure there's always drive. If there's less friction on parts it might interpret this as no drive and leave you going nowehere.




(I believe you can run a car with a TorSen diff in gear with only one wheeel jacked up and it won't move; no torque on one side of the diff means there's no torque (drive) to transfer to the other side)***
























***Do not try this at home in case it's not true
 

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mg_zt_t
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Puzzling this. With the Type B TorSens fitted to my 620ti and my son's. Here's why. Too much brake pedal travel following renewal work on Braking system. No amount of our routine bleeding via the bleed nipples rectified this.

To prime 620ti Brakes and ABS system following Brake Fluid renewal and other brake TLC it is sometimes necessary to lift clear and rotate each of the four wheels in turn and firmly apply the brake pedal as each wheel spins. Starting with the front wheels. I run the car in first gear when doing this to each of the front brakes in turn. You need a helper to spin the raised rear wheels as they are not driven of course. That restored the braking on both our cars.

Hope this is of help to anyone searching for Brake renewal information. It certainly worked for us who were puzzled that normal bleeding procedures simply did not do the job.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I haven’t got round to changing it yet but safe to say I’ll only use mtf94 and no zx1. Gearbox seems to be noisier from start up and gets quieter the more i drive.
 

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I haven’t got round to changing it yet but safe to say I’ll only use mtf94 and no zx1. Gearbox seems to be noisier from start up and gets quieter the more i drive.

That chimes somewhat with old oil/low level. Guess it quietens down with driving as the oil heats up, becomes a bit thinner and is able to "coat" moving parts more readily.
 
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