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rover_25
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Discussion Starter #21
trust me i got the number of bolts right... took me half a day to find em all as one or two were hiding behind the drive shaft i seem to remember

u need to remove the starter motor otherwise there wont be enough room to get the box out

coop
 

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rover_25
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Discussion Starter #22
just noticed that the jnx guy only ever posted once on the entire forum. and hasnt been back on since so i guess he wasnt too sure about himself
 

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You really should tighten these things with a torque wrench for peace of mind
I wouldn't want anything loose or overtightened while driving

You can do it on a drive way but some tools make it easier

I did it a few days ago with basic tools like a torque wrench and socket wrench kit.
Also used axel stands, the basic car jack with a block of wood to support the engine and a trolley jack ( £35 or so from Halfrauds ) to support the gearbox and help lower and lift it

( a hoist would have made it alot easier I'm sure but the jack worked fine with one hand to use it and my other holding the gearbox steady )
 

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rover_200_95_99
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I got a trolley jack + axel stands for about 20pounds on craigslist. However 1 axel stand is very stubbern and I am doubting if it even works.
 

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Best replace if in doubt about an axel stand mate

Do check also that you have the right clutch
I bought one with the wrong number of splines and mate... I just wanted to kick the car over

Happy I kept at it, so far the car now runs perfectly


BIG thanks to Cooper1200 for this guide and the pics
Was a massive help
 

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rover_25
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I need to replace my clutch on Rover 25. Nice guide but have a few questions.

Did you work under the car or from the top?

How long did it take you?

How much did it cost you compared to taking it to a garage? Where did you buy your clutch kit from?
 

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R65 clutch lever bushes

Please don't yell at me for necroning this thread. Just wanted to say thanks!

Great tutorial! Been very helpful in removing my R65 from my 2002 MG ZR 105. Bloody thing snapped the clutch cable, but still wouldn't work after I replaced it.

I chose not to remove the battery holder (bolts? More like rusted stubs) and removed the ball joint from the lower suspension rather than undo the anti roll bar and steady bar due to past experience. On my 1998 Rover 220 SDI and 2001 MG ZR TD+ they were seized solid.
Still had to disconnect the steady bar just to remove the gearbox from under the car.

If I were to do it again, I'd jack it up higher! I'd also remove the drive shafts completely. After all the driveshaft nuts aren't expensive and prevents straining the CV joints.
 

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I used this excellent guide a few years ago when replacing the gearbox and clutch on a Rover 214 (bubble). Unfortunately the pics have been blurred by Photobucket. The picture diary I posted may be of help to someone when doing a similar job:

 

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Well done you @gnu! Very clear & comprehensive pictures in your how to. Photobucket is a very plague with those large adverts on their pics or those dam..d blurred effects! :mad:
I don't think I'll do that myself any day but who knows anyway it should be helpful to brave owners.
Thank you for sharing. That's all this friendly forum is about! (y)
 

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Well done you @gnu! Very clear & comprehensive pictures in your how to. Photobucket is a very plague with those large adverts on their pics or those dam..d blurred effects! :mad:
I don't think I'll do that myself any day but who knows anyway it should be helpful to brave owners.
Thank you for sharing. That's all this friendly forum is about! (y)
Yeah, a real shame about Photobucket. It mean lots of guides like the Cooper1200 being talked about here is devalued as you can't see the pics clearly. I've re-hosted some of my blurred the Photobucket images on this site. However, there's a software fault with the VS sites that limit you to editing 10 posts in 7 days, but it never resets so once you've edited 10 posts that's it! I've been seeing if Admin can solve it, but they are waiting for a software fix... If this is ever done I'll re-host a few key pics and close my Photobucket account.
 

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Because of intereset I created following two posts in order to insert clear pictures instead of blurred pictures into posts. These two posts are copy/paste from Original Poster of this thread and all what is said belongs to Original Poster.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Gearbox removal /clutch change tutorial


Having just done this over the last few days and having received lots of advice from several different forum members I thought I would write out what I did and try and include a few pics for those that wish to try it themselves. This tutorial is meant to be used in conjunction with the Haynes manual and is carried out on a rover 25 with an R65 type transmission and is an amateur’s point of view to which I can’t take any responsibility this is only meant as a guide not a list of specific instructions.

1. Remove the battery leads (earth (the black one) first) and then remove the battery clamp and battery.

2. Undo 4 clips to release the top of the air cleaner box and place to one side.

3. Undo the 2 bolts holding the remainder of the air cleaner box and remove completely.


4. disconnect the two multi plugs from the side of the ECU (each plug has a slider on it the top plug the slider is on the top and the bottom plug has the slider on the bottom these need to be pulled out approx 2” (I found removing the under bonnet fuse box and removing the two bolts holding the ECU to the battery tray made this a lot easier).

IMG_1011-1.jpg


5. Remove three bolts from the battery tray and slacken 3 bolts on the underside against the nearside wing and slide off the two relays (these just pull up) and remove the battery tray from the car.

IMG_1010-1.jpg


6. Slacken the wheel nuts on both front wheels then jack up the front of the car and support on axel stands.

7. Remove both the front wheels (and store the nuts somewhere safe I left mine against the side of the car and kicked them all over the place and had to spend 30 mins scouring the garage for them.

8. Remove the nut securing the battery positive lead to the starter motor and disconnect the lead.

9. Pull off the lucar connector from the starter motor.

10. Remove the top of the three bolts from the starter motor and disconnect the earth lead.

11. Remove the last two bolts at the bottom of the starter motor and remove the starter motor from the car.

12. Disconnect the plugs from the speed sensor and reversing light switch.

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13. Carefully release the battery positive lead clip on the gearbox.

14. Disconnect the clutch inner cable from the release lever (I found levering it back with a large screwdriver helped) and pull through the circular bracket. Tie clear of the area (otherwise the bloody thing pokes u in the eye and gets tangled up in everything)

15. Using a flat bladed screwdriver carefully undo the gear linkage rod ball joints from the gear levers (make sure u remove the thinner of the two from the lever on top of the gearbox.

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134661


16. Remove two bolts attaching the left hand steady bar to the engine mounting and the gearbox mounting and remove from the car.

17. Remove two bolts attaching the rest of the steady bar and clutch cable support bracket to the gearbox and remove the bracket from the car.

18. Remove one bolt securing the rear flywheel cover plate to the bell housing just behind where you took the clutch support bracket from.

19. Position a bowl or suitable container to catch the gearbox oil below the gearbox.

20. Remove the level plug and then the drain plug from the gearbox.

21. Working down at both wheel hubs remove two bolts connecting tie rod to lower arm, the bolt connecting drop link to arm and the bolt connecting arm to rear subframe.

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22. With a flat bladed screw driver gently pry the driveshaft’s from the gearbox and with an assistant get them to pull the suspension leg outwards so the ends of the shafts come clear of the gearbox and tie clear making sure u don’t stress the universal joints.

23. Release 2 clips attaching the starter motor cable to the front flywheel cover plate and then remove three screws and remove the plate.

24. Fit a suitable lifting eye to the gearbox and attach to an engine hoist. Adjust the hoist to take the weight of the transmission.

25. Position a jack with a block of wood on top under the engine sump and raise the jack to take the weight of the engine.

26. Remove the two bolts from the gearbox mounting bracket and remove the through bolt securing the mounting to the body bracket.

27. Lower the gearbox slightly and remove the mounting and rubbers.

28. Remove 2 upper transmission to engine securing bolts. (If u have air con there is a bracket supporting the air con pipe I found if I removed the nut holding the pipe I could gently move it out the way of the bolts. If further access is needed u can slide an extension bar through the appropriate hole in the bell housing)

29. Remove 5 lower gearbox to engine sump bolts. (there are two on the nearside side of the bell housing and three on the other side one of them is quite high up and was masked by the off side drive shaft when I did it)

134663


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134665


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30. With assistance carefully release the gearbox from the two locating dowels, lower to the ground and remove from under the car.

31. The thrust bearing is located in the bell housing of the gearbox to remove simply pull the clutch release arm on top of the gearbox to its inner most position and then remove the bearing from the shaft.

32. To install the new one place it on the shaft and turn it so that the two catches r against the release fork arms and slowly pull the clutch lever back to its normal position whilst pressing the bearing against the release fork. Check it is engaged with the fork by moving the release arm back and forth gently and checking that the bearing moves back and forth with it.

33. The clutch and pressure plate are still attached to the engine.


Continue ...
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Continue from previous post ...


34. Remove 6 torx head bolts from the pressure plate and remove the pressure plate and clutch disk.

IMG_1019-1.jpg


35. Place the new clutch plate against the flywheel making sure that the side marked flywheel side is against the flywheel and the new pressure plate making sure it is aligned with the locating dowels and replace the 6 torx bolts. (The clutch on the car was marked with “gearbox side” obviously this goes towards the gearbox.)

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36. It is imperative that the clutch plate and pressure plate is lined up correctly this can either be done by eye or with a clutch alignment tool. Once the clutch plate and pressure plate are aligned properly tighten the torx bolts to the correct torque.


This is the end of the tutorial refitting is achieved by working backwards through the list.





Tools list
Breaker bar
Socket set
Spanners
Large screwdriver with a flat blade
Torque wrench(s) covering 25 to 100 N/M
Clutch alignment tool
Torx socket size 8
Engine hoist

Torque settings
Gearbox to engine sump bolts
45 N/M
33 lb/ft
Gearbox to engine bolts
85 N/M
63 lb/ft
Gearbox mounting to engine mounting bolts
60 N/M
44 lb/ft
gearbox mounting through bolt
85 N/M
63 lb/ft
engine steady bar
25 N/M
18 lb/ft
track-rod end ball joint nut
45 N/M
33 lb/ft
drop bar nut
60 N/M
44 lb/ft
L/H mounting bracket to gearbox bolts
100 N/M
74 lb/ft
L/H mounting through bolt
85 N/M
63 lb/ft
 

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How fine an how to it is! A very comprehensive and thorough bit of tutoring. (y)
Shame you didn't do it a bit earlier: I could have done my cabby gearbox swap myself... :confused:
I was kidding of course! :ROFLMAO:
 

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How fine an how to it is! A very comprehensive and thorough bit of tutoring. (y)
Shame you didn't do it a bit earlier: I could have done my cabby gearbox swap myself... :confused:
I was kidding of course! :ROFLMAO:
I only provided clear pictures. All what is said belongs to Original Poster of this thread.
 

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Roverlike, thanks for reinstating Cooper1200's gearbox thread with clear pics. I've used this twice in the past and it is a great help on such an involved job. (y)
 

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mg_zr
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trust me i got the number of bolts right... took me half a day to find em all as one or two were hiding behind the drive shaft i seem to remember

u need to remove the starter motor otherwise there wont be enough room to get the box out

coop
Coop - any ideas what size bolts go where lol
 
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