Gearbox removal /clutch change tutorial
Having just done this over the last few days and having received lots of advice from several different forum members I thought I would write out what I did and try and include a few pics for those that wish to try it themselves. This tutorial is meant to be used in conjunction with the Haynes manual and is carried out on a rover 25 with an R65 type transmission and is an amateur’s point of view to which I can’t take any responsibility this is only meant as a guide not a list of specific instructions.
1. Remove the battery leads (earth (the black one) first) and then remove the battery clamp and battery.
2. Undo 4 clips to release the top of the air cleaner box and place to one side.
3. Undo the 2 bolts holding the remainder of the air cleaner box and remove completely.
4. disconnect the two multi plugs from the side of the ECU (each plug has a slider on it the top plug the slider is on the top and the bottom plug has the slider on the bottom these need to be pulled out approx 2” (I found removing the under bonnet fuse box and removing the two bolts holding the ECU to the battery tray made this a lot easier).
5. Remove three bolts from the battery tray and slacken 3 bolts on the underside against the nearside wing and slide off the two relays (these just pull up) and remove the battery tray from the car.
6. Slacken the wheel nuts on both front wheels then jack up the front of the car and support on axel stands.
7. Remove both the front wheels (and store the nuts somewhere safe I left mine against the side of the car and kicked them all over the place and had to spend 30 mins scouring the garage for them.
8. Remove the nut securing the battery positive lead to the starter motor and disconnect the lead.
9. Pull off the lucar connector from the starter motor.
10. Remove the top of the three bolts from the starter motor and disconnect the earth lead.
11. Remove the last two bolts at the bottom of the starter motor and remove the starter motor from the car.
12. Disconnect the plugs from the speed sensor and reversing light switch.
13. Carefully release the battery positive lead clip on the gearbox.
14. Disconnect the clutch inner cable from the release lever (I found levering it back with a large screwdriver helped) and pull through the circular bracket. Tie clear of the area (otherwise the bloody thing pokes u in the eye and gets tangled up in everything)
15. Using a flat bladed screwdriver carefully undo the gear linkage rod ball joints from the gear levers (make sure u remove the thinner of the two from the lever on top of the gearbox.
16. Remove two bolts attaching the left hand steady bar to the engine mounting and the gearbox mounting and remove from the car.
17. Remove two bolts attaching the rest of the steady bar and clutch cable support bracket to the gearbox and remove the bracket from the car.
18. Remove one bolt securing the rear flywheel cover plate to the bell housing just behind where you took the clutch support bracket from.
19. Position a bowl or suitable container to catch the gearbox oil below the gearbox.
20. Remove the level plug and then the drain plug from the gearbox.
21. Working down at both wheel hubs remove two bolts connecting tie rod to lower arm, the bolt connecting drop link to arm and the bolt connecting arm to rear subframe.
22. With a flat bladed screw driver gently pry the driveshaft’s from the gearbox and with an assistant get them to pull the suspension leg outwards so the ends of the shafts come clear of the gearbox and tie clear making sure u don’t stress the universal joints.
23. Release 2 clips attaching the starter motor cable to the front flywheel cover plate and then remove three screws and remove the plate.
24. Fit a suitable lifting eye to the gearbox and attach to an engine hoist. Adjust the hoist to take the weight of the transmission.
25. Position a jack with a block of wood on top under the engine sump and raise the jack to take the weight of the engine.
26. Remove the two bolts from the gearbox mounting bracket and remove the through bolt securing the mounting to the body bracket.
27. Lower the gearbox slightly and remove the mounting and rubbers.
28. Remove 2 upper transmission to engine securing bolts. (If u have air con there is a bracket supporting the air con pipe I found if I removed the nut holding the pipe I could gently move it out the way of the bolts. If further access is needed u can slide an extension bar through the appropriate hole in the bell housing)
29. Remove 5 lower gearbox to engine sump bolts. (there are two on the nearside side of the bell housing and three on the other side one of them is quite high up and was masked by the off side drive shaft when I did it)
30. With assistance carefully release the gearbox from the two locating dowels, lower to the ground and remove from under the car.
31. The thrust bearing is located in the bell housing of the gearbox to remove simply pull the clutch release arm on top of the gearbox to its inner most position and then remove the bearing from the shaft.
32. To install the new one place it on the shaft and turn it so that the two catches r against the release fork arms and slowly pull the clutch lever back to its normal position whilst pressing the bearing against the release fork. Check it is engaged with the fork by moving the release arm back and forth gently and checking that the bearing moves back and forth with it.
33. The clutch and pressure plate are still attached to the engine.
34. Remove 6 torx head bolts from the pressure plate and remove the pressure plate and clutch disk.
35. Place the new clutch plate against the flywheel making sure that the side marked flywheel side is against the flywheel and the new pressure plate making sure it is aligned with the locating dowels and replace the 6 torx bolts. (The clutch on the car was marked with “gearbox side” obviously this goes towards the gearbox.)
36. It is imperative that the clutch plate and pressure plate is lined up correctly this can either be done by eye or with a clutch alignment tool. Once the clutch plate and pressure plate are aligned properly tighten the torx bolts to the correct torque.
This is the end of the tutorial refitting is achieved by working backwards through the list.
Large screwdriver with a flat blade
Torque wrench(s) covering 25 to 100 N/M
Clutch alignment tool
Torx socket size 8
Gearbox to engine sump bolts
Gearbox to engine bolts
Gearbox mounting to engine mounting bolts
gearbox mounting through bolt
engine steady bar
track-rod end ball joint nut
drop bar nut
L/H mounting bracket to gearbox bolts
L/H mounting through bolt