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rover_25
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Gearbox removal /clutch change tutorial


Having just done this over the last few days and having received lots of advice from several different forum members I thought I would write out what I did and try and include a few pics for those that wish to try it themselves. This tutorial is meant to be used in conjunction with the Haynes manual and is carried out on a rover 25 with an R65 type transmission and is an amateur’s point of view to which I can’t take any responsibility this is only meant as a guide not a list of specific instructions.

1. Remove the battery leads (earth (the black one) first) and then remove the battery clamp and battery.

2. Undo 4 clips to release the top of the air cleaner box and place to one side.

3. Undo the 2 bolts holding the remainder of the air cleaner box and remove completely.


4. disconnect the two multi plugs from the side of the ECU (each plug has a slider on it the top plug the slider is on the top and the bottom plug has the slider on the bottom these need to be pulled out approx 2” (I found removing the under bonnet fuse box and removing the two bolts holding the ECU to the battery tray made this a lot easier).



5. Remove three bolts from the battery tray and slacken 3 bolts on the underside against the nearside wing and slide off the two relays (these just pull up) and remove the battery tray from the car.



6. Slacken the wheel nuts on both front wheels then jack up the front of the car and support on axel stands.

7. Remove both the front wheels (and store the nuts somewhere safe I left mine against the side of the car and kicked them all over the place and had to spend 30 mins scouring the garage for them.

8. Remove the nut securing the battery positive lead to the starter motor and disconnect the lead.

9. Pull off the lucar connector from the starter motor.

10. Remove the top of the three bolts from the starter motor and disconnect the earth lead.

11. Remove the last two bolts at the bottom of the starter motor and remove the starter motor from the car.

12. Disconnect the plugs from the speed sensor and reversing light switch.



13. Carefully release the battery positive lead clip on the gearbox.

14. Disconnect the clutch inner cable from the release lever (I found levering it back with a large screwdriver helped) and pull through the circular bracket. Tie clear of the area (otherwise the bloody thing pokes u in the eye and gets tangled up in everything)

15. Using a flat bladed screwdriver carefully undo the gear linkage rod ball joints from the gear levers (make sure u remove the thinner of the two from the lever on top of the gearbox.





16. Remove two bolts attaching the left hand steady bar to the engine mounting and the gearbox mounting and remove from the car.

17. Remove two bolts attaching the rest of the steady bar and clutch cable support bracket to the gearbox and remove the bracket from the car.

18. Remove one bolt securing the rear flywheel cover plate to the bell housing just behind where you took the clutch support bracket from.

19. Position a bowl or suitable container to catch the gearbox oil below the gearbox.

20. Remove the level plug and then the drain plug from the gearbox.

21. Working down at both wheel hubs remove two bolts connecting tie rod to lower arm, the bolt connecting drop link to arm and the bolt connecting arm to rear subframe.



22. With a flat bladed screw driver gently pry the driveshaft’s from the gearbox and with an assistant get them to pull the suspension leg outwards so the ends of the shafts come clear of the gearbox and tie clear making sure u don’t stress the universal joints.

23. Release 2 clips attaching the starter motor cable to the front flywheel cover plate and then remove three screws and remove the plate.

24. Fit a suitable lifting eye to the gearbox and attach to an engine hoist. Adjust the hoist to take the weight of the transmission.

25. Position a jack with a block of wood on top under the engine sump and raise the jack to take the weight of the engine.

26. Remove the two bolts from the gearbox mounting bracket and remove the through bolt securing the mounting to the body bracket.

27. Lower the gearbox slightly and remove the mounting and rubbers.

28. Remove 2 upper transmission to engine securing bolts. (If u have air con there is a bracket supporting the air con pipe I found if I removed the nut holding the pipe I could gently move it out the way of the bolts. If further access is needed u can slide an extension bar through the appropriate hole in the bell housing)

29. Remove 5 lower gearbox to engine sump bolts. (there are two on the nearside side of the bell housing and three on the other side one of them is quite high up and was masked by the off side drive shaft when I did it)









30. With assistance carefully release the gearbox from the two locating dowels, lower to the ground and remove from under the car.

31. The thrust bearing is located in the bell housing of the gearbox to remove simply pull the clutch release arm on top of the gearbox to its inner most position and then remove the bearing from the shaft.

32. To install the new one place it on the shaft and turn it so that the two catches r against the release fork arms and slowly pull the clutch lever back to its normal position whilst pressing the bearing against the release fork. Check it is engaged with the fork by moving the release arm back and forth gently and checking that the bearing moves back and forth with it.

33. The clutch and pressure plate are still attached to the engine.

34. Remove 6 torx head bolts from the pressure plate and remove the pressure plate and clutch disk.



35. Place the new clutch plate against the flywheel making sure that the side marked flywheel side is against the flywheel and the new pressure plate making sure it is aligned with the locating dowels and replace the 6 torx bolts. (The clutch on the car was marked with “gearbox side” obviously this goes towards the gearbox.)



36. It is imperative that the clutch plate and pressure plate is lined up correctly this can either be done by eye or with a clutch alignment tool. Once the clutch plate and pressure plate are aligned properly tighten the torx bolts to the correct torque.


This is the end of the tutorial refitting is achieved by working backwards through the list.





Tools list
Breaker bar
Socket set
Spanners
Large screwdriver with a flat blade
Torque wrench(s) covering 25 to 100 N/M
Clutch alignment tool
Torx socket size 8
Engine hoist

Torque settings
Gearbox to engine sump bolts
45 N/M
33 lb/ft
Gearbox to engine bolts
85 N/M
63 lb/ft
Gearbox mounting to engine mounting bolts
60 N/M
44 lb/ft
gearbox mounting through bolt
85 N/M
63 lb/ft
engine steady bar
25 N/M
18 lb/ft
track-rod end ball joint nut
45 N/M
33 lb/ft
drop bar nut
60 N/M
44 lb/ft
L/H mounting bracket to gearbox bolts
100 N/M
74 lb/ft
L/H mounting through bolt
85 N/M
63 lb/ft
 

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rover_25
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Discussion Starter #5
i appolagise for the text colour i cut and pasted it from word and forgot to change it. think its changed now:)
 

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mgf
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word of advice when refitting - make sure the teeth of the drive shaft are perfectly aligned with the drive plate when engaging - do this as slowly as you like - i have learned from bitter experience.

If you are not happy with the way its going stop to check or start all over again - it should slide together & bolt easily but if it doesn't you probably have a problem - don't force it!
 

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mgf
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threatening it with a can of petrol and box of matches works too... ;)
i agree!!!!

we also like a clean environment when doing these things - mating surfaces need to be nice and clean - dirt can ruin your day..................

if all else fails try the matches...................
 

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You should have put it there in the first place which is what I was getting at in one of my previous posts about posting in the right place. It all helps so ask a mod to move or copy and paste then delete this one.
 

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rover_25
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Discussion Starter #13
pls could a mod move this to the how to section and deleat it from this section
many thanks coop
 

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I guess this is simular to a Zr Td? My clutch is slipping now............ Great guide :)
Nope yours will have the PG1 gearbox- basic procedure is the same but things are in different places, for example the starter motor on yours will be on the gearbox about the driveshafts.
 

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Some pro notes guys

Nice guide almost. Sorry, my 1st post, I am a pro-mech. Not approved Rover/MG but worked on a lot of cars.

There are actually only 4 gearbox bolts that hold it all together. However, check around the bell-housing as there are a few little bolts in there that I can’t work out what they do!

Remember to remove the small bolt that acts as part of the gearbox mounting/torsion bar directly above the g/b. I prefer to remove the torsion mounting from the g/b housing as it’s far less to fowl while extracting. Lots of cables attached so you need to cut plastic ties.

The front fly-wheel cover (sorry, have no photo) will prevent you dropping the box straight off as the back of the cover gets caught on the fly-wheel. It’s just a black cover bolted to the bell-housing just above the starter motor. It has 3x6mm bolts on the front. It won’t fall out as it’s designed to be captured in the block. Look see and you’ll know what I mean.

If you’re just doing a straight clutch change, why remove the starter motor? It’’ll drop out with the box.

The back f/w cover does get caught but it’s less of an issue.

The locating dowels are fun!!!! Rock the box, depending how you’ve hooked up to your hoist/crane just to get a gap to shove a fat screwdriver/bar in there. Be careful not to rock the engine off your jack ;-( I have’t done that, but beware.

You need an E8 Torx female socket to remove the pressure plate. In my case, someone previous used a mole grip, grrr. so had to grind a few. These are actually readily available from your local MG/Rover dealer (80p each). I wanted to replace these with something else (like Hex socket screws) but they’re such a weird size, so, unless you replace your f/w, you’re snookered!

Right, suspension take down. N/S is usually very easy, but the O/S seems to suffer advanced corrosion leading to drastic measures, particularly on the lower suspension arm chassis bush. The bolt gets corroded to the centre guide right?

Unfortunately, there’s no short cut if you hit this problem. Get your blow torches out or Oxy/Acy if you have access and just melt that rubber. By doing that, there should be enough room to get an angle grinder right in there to sheer it out. Remember (assuming you haven’t rounded the 13mm bolt) you can turn it and cut away (bolt head end). You may have to grind the bolt head off as well.

Unless you have a lots of heat and a hydraulic press, get a pro to replace that bush or visit your local vehicle recycler, lol.

CV joints - post me if you require a bit of info .. good luck
 
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