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mgf
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys
I've not been on for a while as after I had the cracked piston liner replaced by the well known guys last autumn, my car needed a few other things addressing. One being that the lower gear change cable end had come apart and could have come off at anytime. I was busy with work, so I took her of the road. Christmas rush over and with parts in hand, jacked up the rear end to replace the cable ends. A 13mm spanner is perfect for poping the end off. I replaced both ends and rubber covers ( not the cables) as I was under the car, greased everything up. Set the car back down off the stands...... but it will not go into reverse, It will go into other gears with a shove, reverse is grating. I've looked through some other older posts, but I can't find any clear instructions of adjustments. The clutch pedal seems fine and the car moved forward in first. I fitted the new ends to the ball joints at rest in neutral, only moved the little nuts that lock the cable ends a fraction to get the ends to line up with the ball joints and they popped back on nicely. The cables moved in and out freely when off of the ball joints. I'm thinking that the cable is not moving the balljoint on the bracket enough to allow reverse gear to be selected. Any ideas and should I adjust the ends in or slacken it off (longer). When looking and the ball joint bracket, how much should it move?
It was sometimes difficult to get reverse gear before, but I thought that was because of the damaged cable end.
Any advice by more experience owners than me gratfully received. :)
 

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I think the adjustments are done at the gear lever.

Can you select reverse when the engine is off? If so your clutch may need adjusting.
 

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mgf
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Discussion Starter #3
I can't get reverse either way, engine running or not. I'm going to check what happens when the gear stick is moved, so will get my other half to move the stick whilst I look under the car. I didn't touch the cable end that's attached to the gear stick.
 

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The way I adjusted mine when I changed the bell crank.
I removed the gaiter at the gear lever. Then I adjusted the cables at the bell crank until
the lever sat central, then replaced gaiter. No problems since.
 

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mgf
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Discussion Starter #6
Do I need someone to hold the gear stick in the central position, whilst I adjust the end of the cable at the bell crank. I guess from what other posts I've found that the cable needs to be shorter? Cheers.
 

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mg_zt_t
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Worth checking.

When my 120,000 mile MGF started to make both 1st and 2nd and sometimes 5th and Reverse Gears difficult to select, I had a good look at the mechanism and levers on the input stub on the PG1 gearbox under the car. All appeared well. Some miles later, both 1st and 2nd impossible to select.

Long story short, various nuts and bolts around the gear lever inside the car had worked loose. Tightening those up and guess what, all gears fully restored plus a bonus that even reverse could be selected silently.

These are the various bolts that needed tightening. Worth checking :~





Good luck.
 

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mgf
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Discussion Starter #9
When my 120,000 mile MGF started to make both 1st and 2nd and sometimes 5th and Reverse Gears difficult to select, I had a good look at the mechanism and levers on the input stub on the PG1 gearbox under the car. All appeared well. Some miles later, both 1st and 2nd impossible to select.

Long story short, various nuts and bolts around the gear lever inside the car had worked loose. Tightening those up and guess what, all gears fully restored plus a bonus that even reverse could be selected silently.

These are the various bolts that needed tightening. Worth checking :~





Good luck.
Thanks for your post and the photos, very helpful. Tomorrow, hopefully it will stop raining and I can have another look inside and underneath. It certainly is very frustrating and it's seems there is no one answer to getting the cables working correctly. Another bonkers design and even the manual doesn't give an explanation.
 

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Long story short, various nuts and bolts around the gear lever inside the car had worked loose. Tightening those up and guess what, all gears fully restored plus a bonus that even reverse could be selected silently.
That's interesting. I thought the PG1 has some sort of internal brake to stop the crunch when selecting reverse.
 

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mg_zt_t
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That's interesting. I thought the PG1 has some sort of internal brake to stop the crunch when selecting reverse.
Some did, most those I have looked at internally did not. Only ever seen one with that gismo and it did not work well either but, the box had done a few miles. The slightest dragging clutch will ensure non-synchro reverse will crunch every time. Best to ensure your slave cylinder is in tip top shape otherwise clutch drag will make all gear changes less satisfacory.
 

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Gear selection on reverse is a well known problem on an "F" and the two I have both suffer from it, but now mine has a habit of coming out of fifth gear whilst on the motorway.......not had a chance to sort that one yet but I can see a gearbox removal session come summer.
 

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mgf
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For the OP;
Here's an answer I wrote up for a similar issue on the Canadian MGF forum. Hope it helps.

I would say it's the selector cable as it seems to be a front/rear movement issue as you are having issues with 1st/3rd/5th or 2nd/4th/R. You need a smidge more forward movement on the cable to get better engagement in 2nd/4th/R.
What I would do is jack up the rear of the car and put it on stands.
Put it into 3rd gear (This will push the cable rearward)
Then slide under the car, pop the connector off the ball and screw it in one turn only to lengthen the forward throw.
Pop it back on and see if it goes into 4th more easily. You may have to drive the car to check. Don't be tempted to adjust it too much at a time. (Don't ask me how I know this!) This can be a long frustrating process if it gets too far out of adjustment!
The cross gate cable adjustment works the same way only you have trouble selecting R/5th or 1st/2nd.
It's important to get a mental picture of the way the cable (and the gearbox input shaft) moves in relation to the shifter. When you "get" this it will make
the cause and effect of adjustments seem more logical.

If the adjustment was way out you would want to unhook the cable end and put the gearbox into a known gear by moving the input shaft by hand. (Using the mental picture detailed above) Then have a helper hold the gearshift in the position it should be in to select that gear while you slide under the car and screw the cable end in or out until the cable end will pop onto the selector shaft. Then give it a try and do fine adjustment as above.
 

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mgf
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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks Rich for your info. It's been so wet I've left it for the moment. I'll get back to adjusting it as soon as the weather improves.
I found a similar explanation on another MGF how to forum. I'll get a helper to change gear whilst I'm under the car that way I can see how it moves. It seems amazing that just one turn of the end could make so much difference. I'll let you all know as soon as I've managed to sort it out. Here's hoping.:)
 

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I think the adjustments are done at the gear lever.

Can you select reverse when the engine is off? If so your clutch may need adjusting.
Ignore this, it is wrong.

I would edit the post but the site says one can only edit 10 posts in 7 days, clever as I haven't been on the forum this year....maybe this sort of thing is why I haven't been on this year......
 

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mg_zt_t
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Thanks for hughlighting this thread James. I enabled me to notice that my two images in my Jan 8, 2016 post have been corrupted by Photobucket ... here are the originals .. That's much better. Over the years and miles bolts, nuts and other fasteners become loosened. A few minutes with the tools had my 120,000 mile MGF chnaging gear smoothly like new.

134597
134598
 

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mgf
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i recently had to replace my cables and it was possibly the most awkward job i have ever done on any vehicle,getting at the gear end of the cables aint easy,you can try popping the cable off the bell crank that pushes and pulls then slacken lock not and then turn the end in one complete turn then pop it back on try to get reverse if ok tighten it up,if its worse pop the end off again and turn it 2 turns the other way and try you will only be one turn from where you started if that don't solve it pop off again and turn one turn back to starting position and try something else,basically make one adjustment at a time so that you can go back to where you started.
 
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