Thanks for the reply i'll check this when I got some spare time busy seems it's xmas lol the key fob is the square one. Someone told me to check immobiliser by re-setting it by locking the car via key and waiting etc then trying but that seems to be working fine. Its odd really I was using the car fine drove to the mot station no problems then just would'nt start and haven't since. I have had a little trouble with the car cutting out at junctions and being sluggish but when given some wellie it worked fine this have only happened like 3 times and hasn't been a regular occurance.
I did check this morning if there was a click from the relays when turning the ignition on and I heard a click so I'm thinking it must be the fuel pump itself. I've also changed plugs, leads and coil packs, tried bumping her, took out and cleaned both camshaft and crankshaft sensors, when I undone the fuel filter and tried to turn the car over no fuel came squirting from the filter so i'm really starting to think the pump itself is gone kaput! Any ideas or suggestions It's spinning my head lol!
might be worth checking for broken wires, sounds as if it's not activating the fuel pump at all so if the wiring is ok then it might be worth looking at the pump itself.
although a dead pump isn't a particularly common problem.
Will do managed to check relays all working fine and a friend had some spare fuses so changed them but still no joy. Just a little question if it has a faulty or dead cam or crankshaft sensor would these cause the car not to start? it had a faulty camshaft sensor previously which I changed because the car was running in limp mode, it was a second hand sensor as at the time there was a 6 month waiting period for 1, but my dad owned a audi a few years back which had the same symptoms and it was the cam sensor. My friends cousin got a diagnostic reader he kindly hooked it up not so long ago but no codes came up. Just trying to eliminate things really.
i was hoping someone with greater intelligence/knowledge/both would help me out by now.
i'm still in the basic areas at the moment, and haven't ventured too much into the sensors, as long as it works i'll leave it. :err:
have you started a seperate thread, you might get more luck if you do.
Hi mate, looking through the Workshop manual there is no mention of that fuse but in the Wiring Diagram (No 6) it shows fusible links to FL1, FL2 and FL 10.
Don't know if this is any help.
Good luck
FL1 would refer to (Fusible Link 1) the fusible links are the square fuses with round copper elements in the engine bay fusebox. these are typically higer rated than the normal fuses which would make sense as the heated screen can draw a lot of power.
as the fusible links have a clear top, have a look in the engine bay fusebox and visually inspect them for any breaks in the elements.
fusebox is in the cabin under the steering wheel.
there are 3 catches with a slot in each for a coin to turn it (most of the time you can just turn them with your thumb or a fingernail.)
air-con usually has a cut-off system for when the coolant pressure drops, could be a leak in the system, check the fuses and if all ok take it to get looked at. most garages can do aircon now, and if they can't they should be happy to point you in the direction of someone who can.
FL10 appears to have blown and the rear wash/wipe fuse also looks to be blown. I've ordered some replacement fuses for the rear wash/wipe but any idea where I might get a new FL10 and how can I check if the R7 is faulty ??
do you have front fogs? the relays are the same, so swap the fog and aircon relays over and test, if the fogs still work, but aircon still doesn't (once the fusible link is changed) then the relay is ok.
the ''FL'' fuses are awkward buggers to get hold of sometimes, best bet is to go raid the local scrapyard, get a couple, incase whatever caused it to trip out happens again.
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