[fernandombc]

Hi,
I´ve recently bought a 1998 Freelander L-series 2.0 Di and shortly after, I had to repair the fuel cut off solenoid on the top of the fuel pump, because when the engine was running with the car stopped the engine preformed irregularly, increasing and decreasing engine rotation speed without acting on the accelerator pedal.
However this hasn´t solved entirely the problem, now when I stop the car (but kipping the engine running) the revolutions don´t come down for the normal regime (below 1000 r/min) and they stay accelerated above 1000 r/min constantly, but if then I press slightly and release the accelerator pedal the engine revolutions drop for the normal working regime below 1000 r/min.
The car was in the computer several times since then, but doesn´t register any fault code, so my mechanic is suggesting to replace the “Harness Engine, with Diesel Engines, With Air Conditioning” (part Ref: YSB105710), but this is a very expensive part around 900 quid, so could some of you help me and advice the way to solve this problem?
Thanks
Fernando

 

[fernandombc]

Thank you for the suggestions, but let me explain a little better what I mean with “stay accelerated above 1000 r/min”, in fact when I stop the car for example in a red light, the engine comes to the idle speed of 1250 r/min but should come to the normal regime which is 750 r/min.This happen sometimes is an intermittent problem.
The computer test was done using the Land Rover tools connected to the car to interrogate the ECU, no faults detected.
I don´t think that the poblem is in the acelerator pedal, is more an electrical problem.
Any way I`m going to following your suggestions then I let you know about the results.
Cheers
Fernando

 

[fernandombc]

Hi,
To update the issue with my Freelander, I would like to tell you that I´ve tried the paperclip method to read the fault codes, but no faults detected.
Following your previous suggestions to detect and solve my problem I realize that the idle speed remains in 1250 RPM when I brake the car to stop it and when the car engine was running with more than 1000RPM, if less and I brake, the engine goes normally to the 900RPM.
In the case that the engine stays in 1250RPM and the car stopped, the engine remains in this high rotation indefinitely, but if I release the break, then the RPM goes slowly for the normal RPM of 900.
So, I think that the problem, could be with the brake light switch (or the bulbs), because as suggested by you, if faulty that can cause the ECU to sulk.
Tomorrow, I´m going to replace my brake light switch for a new one, so let’s see if this resolves my problem, I hope that will do. I will post again tomorrow to update this action.
Regards
Thank you very much
Fernando

 

[fernandombc]

Brake light switch replaced but the problem continues. I´m assuming that the ECU is faulty, so my next step will aim to have the ECU refurbished...

Any other sugestion?

Regards

Fernandombc

 

[fernandombc]

I´ve resseted already the ecu by having the battery disconected for more than one day, doesn´t solve the problem and the fuel pump timing was also repared recently.

What I´ve not tryed yet was the use of REDEX in the diesel tank, and clean all the engine sensors with WD40, so I will try also this options.

The engine idle problem is very annoying... but I will continue trying to resolve it.

Thanks

Fernando

 

[fernandombc]

Finally I had my ECU tested by Autotek, and the report is as follows:

"This ECU has been tested several times and found to be faulty. It seems the power supply circuit has been overloaded and refurbishment is required. Please check the power supply circuits to all components before reconnecting the ECU back into the car. Refurbishment is required."

The refurbish quote was too high, so I declined it. I`m now thinking to buy a used ECU, but then it will be necessary to reprogram it with my radio and alarm codes, any one of you knows where I can have this done?

Having in consideration that I don´t have the Freelander here in UK the car is abroad, so I only have the ECU with me.

Another issue is the report recommendation to check the power supply circuits to all components, what exactly does this means?

Regards

 

[fernandombc]

George,
Thanks very much for the link, probably the suggestions 2 and 3 could solve my problem, but I´ve not seen this forum for some time and in the min time I bought a USED ECU in ebay, with the CCU and the fob, iot avoid the reprogramming of the ECU.

The problem is that now I´m not sure if this works, because after having reading a little bit more about the CCU, alarm control Unit and the Fob, I´ve realize that these last two parts could have two different frequencies, the 315MHz (for the RHD cars - UK) and the 433MHZ (For LHD cars - Europe).

The used CCU and fob woks with 315MHZ but my original car is a European version with LHD, so I´m afraid that the CCU and the Fob will not work with my original Alarm control unit that should be 433MHZ.

Is there any other used part I should try to buy from e-bay to make sure this will work in my car?

Or, I only have the following options:

1- Try to open the original ECU and do some DIY replacing the power supply with the used ECU.

2- Recoding the used ECU for my car

Your comments and suggestions are welcome.
Regards

Fernando