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mg_zt_t
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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Rebuilt Turbocharger fitted this afternoon.

Spent a few leisurely hours checking everything ready including refitting the rebuilt Turbocharger to the car. Cleaning up threads on studs and finding better condition suitable nuts and bolts adds time to any job. However it's time well spent as some of those fasteners had twelve years of corrosion affecting some of their flats badly by reducing their dimensions. Easy to round the flats on those poor condition items and that's always bad news and best avoided. All takes extra time though. Anyway, the Turbocharger is now sitting nicely where it should be and I did not lose much skin from my knuckles... Cue my other half reminding me to wear some gloves. ... frequently ...good advice though which I should have taken many years ago..... :) Here's the jobbie in place. Oh yes, lots of carefully repositioned fasteners... mostly facing upwards allowing access from above rather than below needing uncomfortable under the car access :~



Tomorrow, need to reconnect all the various Boost, Vacuum and Coolant Hoses, refill the cooling system after quick blast out with garden hose ~ that's a few more leisurely hours with the tools ... and just maybe,time left to go for a start up and possibly a quick run.

Getting there.
 

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Took a chance that the clearing rain would stay away late afternoon so made some progress with the removal of the worn Turbocharger. Still got wet with one heavy brief shower... :( This is the Non-OE Oil Drain "modification. First image seen from below. :~



Here seen from above. :~



Not impressed with any of that. Looks like Plumber's Tape used to seal those L-Bends.



I was dreading removing those two 8mm Bolts to release the drain pipe but, despite working under the car on my back, using 1/4" and 3/8" Sockets and wobble extension bars, their removal was a doddle. As first image above shows.

Next post will show Turbine Blade damage/missing/broken bits which may explain the banshee wail when this Turbocharger spooled up.
First question that comes to my mind seeing that "mod": Is it a NASP engine fitted or just a NASP block used on a rebuild? Have in mind that the 1.8T engine uses different pistons and con rods than the NASP, so it might be a good idea to check this out in any way??
 

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mg_zt_t
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Discussion Starter · #63 · (Edited)
Cannot be sure one way or another. I spotted it must be a NASP K-Series block when removing the worn Turbocharger.

A thick file of "History" included an Invoice for a comprehensive engine rebuild. "Engine sent away to specialist" ... who knows certainly not an original 1.8T K-Series Block.

Anyway, final touches today and delighted with the result. I used "Blue" 50-50 Antifreeze :~



Final look over check to see if I've missed anything ~ tools, unfastened hoses and loose bolts etc :~



So went for a start with the new CHRA fitted in the Turbocharger:~

[URL=http://tinypic.com/m/jrw7t2/1]View My Video[/URL]

So, put away the tools and stuff and decided to go for a short run. That short run was forty miles. Delighted with the way the car performed and no Blue Smoke from the Exhaust once the little amount of old oil still lurking in the Exhaust System was burnt away.

This car reminds me how good these 1.8Ts can be when up and running well. Car a delight to drive and performs well.

EDIT to add @ 20.53

For some puzzling reason, the combination of my Compact Camera in Video Mode and my Laptop always makes any of my running engines sound like a Diesel. Seems this combination grossly exaggerates the sounds. This engine purrs like a good one. Very little Valve Operation sounds ... nice and quiet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
More minor issues addressed.

Now that the major mechanicals have been completed, time to tie a few lesser loose ends. First thing this morning was to connect two new sensor purchases to the loom inside the engine compartment. First I connected the new Low Brake Pad Wear Sensor to its appropriate connector. The original had been abused and tied up out of the way as previously mentioned. I have taken images of that bodge and all the others I've come across in this car. I will post up all of them in a single post when the work on the car is completed.

When I first got this car, in previous ownership the nearside wheel arch was not secured properly. Driving over a bump, it dropped under the front wheel and was ripped out. That also took out the nearside front ABS Sensor's cable.

So, connected that to the spur connector on the wiring sub-loom. Although neither sensor fully fitted, the car's electrical management will not know that so, now the test. I switched on the ignition and was delighted to see the Brake warning and ABS warning icons no longer stayed on. Fully fitting these sensors will have to wait so I removed them and got on with other lesser tasks.

Firstly, I really dislike the monotone Horns on these later ZTs and 75s, false money savings measures resulting on a slightly lesser car and precious little real saving.

So, having recovered the complete twin tone horn sub-loom set up from an early car in a local scrapyard along with its 500Hz one Horn, fitted that. Fiddly and time consuming job rather than difficult. Here's the sub-loom in place. :~



Close up of the 500Hz Horn fitted :~



Then on to the replacement of the self-destructed Shannon Tube. The replacement fitted nicely and below it on the floor, the remnants of the original most of it long since extinct. Apparently, reading on-line, this is a genuine case of they all do that! .. :)



I also used some G3 rubbing compound on the headlamp lenses and they showed much improvement. Still a way to gho though but, another session with the G3 and they should show more improvement. This is how I accessed them. Much easier with all the stuff removed and out of the way :~



Future loose ends to be tied. Before putting the front back together, I will flush out the large Washer Fluid Reservoir. Years of Algae build up which when some dies off, then moves to block the various Screen Washer Jets. ... usually just in time for the next MoT... :rolleyes: Job for tomorrow.

Oh yes, a quick test blast on the Twin Tone Horn upgrade... That's much better. Enough to wake the dead and dozy jay walkers watching their mobiles rather than looking where they are going....
 

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mg_zt_t
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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Good progress day today and then....

Took advantage of the superb sunny weather and put in a full ten hour shift on the car today. Main job cleaning the Screen Washer Bottle including internally. Came up well and then fitted it. That "spare" loose electrical connector is for the Headlamp Washers. This car does not have them. On my previous ZT-T project, that second washer pump for the Headlamps expired and I discovered that would be an MoT fail. That second pump is a BMW item and I got one from ebay from someone breaking a BMW.



As the washer fluid reservoir was empty, the appropriate warning icon came up on the instrument display. So all appears well there.

Spent more leisurely hours removing various bodges and rectifying any omissions with spares I had available. Paid particular attention to the numerous corroded fasteners in the front bumper. Main culprits here being self-tapping fasteners including one extra long woodscrew "substitute. I lubricated all their threads and locations with some Vaseline. No struggling to fasten or loosen any of those now or in the future. There is a possibility I may keep this car for a year or so. Had it six months already

These little fiddly jobs take so much time. However should I or anyone want to work on this car in the future, no problems with corroded fasteners to delay progress.

I used the 3 Ton Trolley Jack to raise and lower the car off the two Axle Stands. Then took this image :~



Stood back and admired my work. Looking better now. Just about to go in for a meal when I experienced one of those :doh: moments. .... I realised I had forgotten to connect the front Lights sub-loom to the main electrical loom. Double :doh: :doh:

Job for tomorrow... enough is enough... ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
How about that!

Made a start on replacing the non-working near side front ABS Sensor this afternoon following a morning using the Nilfisk Pressure washer to clean up the hard standing in front of the garage. It was damaged when the NSF wheel arch dropped out and under the wheels ripping out the ABS Sensor Cable. This happened soon after i got the car. Not fastened in previous ownership.

Not looking forward to the task of removing the old ABS sensor ~ some horror stories about this job on-line. Had a thought after thinking about how the Sensor was damaged. Because of the various firm locations holding it in place any stresses caused by the wheel arch mishap would be in the unsupported stretches of the cabled. With that in mind, I cut the old ABS Sensor cable in one of the less supported stretches and bared the two thin wires inside the strong protected sheath. Then connected those bared wires to my multimeter. Got a strong reading nearly identical to the "control" check of the same sensor on my other ZT-T with perfect ABS. This confirms the actual sensor is working perfectly. The problem was not the Sensor but some stress connection failure in the unsupported run of the cable.

Here's the reading:~



I have liberally soaked the old sensor in the hub which may help removal. It looked relatively clean.

I will see if the old Sensor can be extracted from its housing in the hub relatively easily. If it cannot then I will cut the new sensor cable in the same location as the old one and solder the two wires. They are not expensive so worth taking a chance. That only after checking that the ABS light goes out when the wires are twisted together. I have several suitable sizes of heat-shrink tubing as well as a suitable stronger protective cover for the joint area. All that can wait for a couple of days as I'm off to London tomorrow ... by coach.

Meantime here's a few images of the work today. :~







There was a bonus for me today. My other main interest is Natural History. I saw a flash of brilliant sky blue flying about near me as I prepared the work area for the ABS. It was a Male Holly Blue butterfly which spent several minutes ~ maybe fifteen ~ flying above the wet mud from the pressure wash operations on the garage hard standing. It settled several times and imbibed on the wet mud. No rain for a few days so moisture not easy to come by. It is believed the salts from the earth enable the butterflies to become sexually mature. Nice to see but difficult to get a good image with a small compact camera. Anyway this was the beautiful thing a real pleasure to see with the flashes of blue as it flew. :~

 

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mg_zt_t
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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
ABS Sensor Checks and Repairs.

Time short today but managed to get a couple of issues settled. First check the validity of the ABS Sensor Cable Connections using a Multimeter. Using my "gizmo" with the mini-crocodile clips connected to the lower part of the cable, this was the set-up.:~

:humbug:

Now for the real test. Switching on the Ignition and watching the Icons as the ABS and SRS do their systems checks. I want to see both illuminated icons on the display go out after the checks... they did :~

View My Video

So, rather than spoil a perfectly unused new ABS Sensor assembly, which was my original plan, why not remove the cable from a scrap yard car after using the multimeter for a continuity check. I had to do some errands and shopping in the afternoon and my favourite scrapyard was only a few miles detour. The Multimeter continuity check on one of the four 1.8 NASP 75s in the yard gave a good reading and I soon had it removed. I did look at the 10mm Bolt head with a view to removing the whole assembly but, the bolt head was badly corroded and the six flats had badly rounded off due to the rust corrosion. Thus no alternative, I cut the cable very close to the actual Senor and withdrew it all from the wheel arch after feeding through the Big Blue Connector from the engine compartment at the top. This was the reading I was looking for :~



When time allows, I will carefully tailor the two cable lengths and solder their twin wires. Then use some various sizes of Heat Shrink tubing ( Already Cut and in place BEFORE soldering the wire joints. ) to cover the wires along with some PowerBond Sealant to weatherproof the joins before moving the Heat-Shrink tubing in place over the sealant area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Result

I can now breath a sigh of relief having at long last completed 99% of a long list of mechanical and electrical tasks on this MG ZT-T 1.8T today. Just a few cosmetic jobs to do now including the whole of the rear bumper. It was poorly painted in previous ownership and looks unsightly. Took this image as a reminder. Display showing only 89443 miles which according to all the documents is genuine. :~



These last jobs included fitting the Nearside Front Wheel Arch Liner and repairing the ABS Sensor Connection. A Rover 75 in a local breaker yard provided the parts I needed at minimal expense. Now for the final test checks of the ABS System. Does the Light on the Instruments Display go out when it should? Also does the ABS actually work now. Well the light did go out as it should. :~

[URL=http://tinypic.com/m/jsbknl/1]View My Video[/URL]

Next took this ZT-T for a gentle warm up run and then used some uneven surfaces to test ABS operation. Worked perfectly. That's a relief. Jobs done.

So, decided to take this car for a longish run. A long run first with this car. Glad I did. Now I have driven a number of MG ZT 1.8Ts including those I own. I can honestly say that this example is by a fair margin the best I have driven so far. Boy can it shift. Steering and handling down my favourite series of long downhill bends off the Cotswold Scarp confirmed this is a good car.

There's another bonus. Those who have read my various MG ZT 1.8T project threads may remember my expressing disappointment at the way these cars brake. They all work OK but, nowhere near as nice as the brakes on my other family cars such as the MG ZS and Rover 620ti cars. This MG ZT-T is exceptional compared to those others where brakes are concerned. It DOES brake with the nice suits me type of "feel" I get with the other cars. Just as I like. This is pleasing. I wonder if the Pads are the reason for these good brakes. I will remove a set from both front and rear Calipers to see if I can identify the Make. If I can, I will get set and try them in one of the other cars. Pads alone can make a BIG difference.

The one single thing I dislike about this car is the colour. My least favourite from the MG-Rover Range: XPower Grey. Despite that I may keep it much longer term. It is that nice to drive.
 

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mg_zt_t
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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Rear Bumper removal today. With a Stainless surprise.

Took advantage of the fine weather to remove the Rear Bumper prior to preparation for fresh paint. Have removed many bumpers from cars and it's not a job I relish. This one was a doddle to remove. I think liberally soaking all the Self-Tapper and other metal fasteners with Penetrating Fluid helped here. Unlike those on my 620ti cars which are of decent quality metal construction, most ZT-T metal fasteners were corroded to some degree, particularly on their threads so I put them in a solution of rust remover to soak for a few days whilst the bumper is painted.



Here's the car without rear bumper. I mist sprayed the exposed rear areas with a very weak Washing Up Liquid solution and allowed that to soak into the dirt. Later I used the garden hose to wash off the dirt. No need for a more powerful pressure washer. :~



Bumper removal revealed the single pipe rear Silencer which I had planned to replace with an original twin pipe one. Closer look made me think it's a Stainless Steel one under all that road dirt, exhaust soot and tar spots. :~



Another nice surprise with this project car! Quick brief clean up revealed it is of Stainless Steel construction :~



..... and the tail pipe after further cleaning :~



So even though it is a tad "Chav" and noisier than original spec, being of Stainless Steel and not obtrusive enough to torpedo my preference to get a swift move on low profile visually and aurally... it will remain on the car ... :D
 

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Glad the hours you put in are paying off. Nice surprise, that SS exhaust. :smile:
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
BODGETASTIC. Two more revealed this weekend.

BODGE #1 :~

I removed the MEGA FUSE from an SORN car. Then removed the suspect MEGA FUSE from the problem car which revealed this. Note traces of melted Plastic nearby. That wire got hot which explains massive flash when shorted. :~



and this ~ household Copper Earth Wire used as substitute "fuse". :~



Fitted the known good replacement MEGA FUSE and all systems restored to GO. :)



It's an ill wind and all that. In one way I'm glad that bodge was revealed so it could be safely rectified. However, that bodge was only revealed following another one.

BODGE #2 :~

Used this problem car with another couple to a Friday Quiz Night over in Cheltenham. On the way back, halfway between Cheltenham and Gloucester, moving through a nice S-Bend suddenly the steering became really heavy and difficult to use. I immediately suspected PAS Belt had fractured ( had that happen once before many years ago on a MG Montego ) but when the Battery/Alternator charge light became illuminated on the display I knew the main auxiliary drive belt had also gone.

Used battery power alone to get home with conservative use of lights... no radio.. :)

Had much difficulty trying to fit a replacement belt yesterday. The good quality 13mm Ring Spanner kept slipping off the hex-bracket on the Tensioner each time I tried to move it against the powerful spring., I'm suspecting badly rounded hex-flats. One more attempt with the good quality spanner which again slipped off this time with the Hex-Flats inside the ring!

Here's why. Someone had been "at" those hex-flats ~ note gouge machined in the broken off bit in one of the close up pictures. :~



Fortunately I had a good spare and the bodged one was easy to remove which was a relief. It's long 10mm Bolt was in new condition too. No rounded flats or other problems so I will reuse that bolt.:~





I will sort it all out later as I have a blocked bathroom sink to sort. Accessing that will do my old bones and tired muscles no good at all .. :(

... All part of life's rich wossname... :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Those AWOL Drive belts. Still a mystery.

I made a slight detour with my visit to my favourite breaker yard. I revisited the X-Roads where my PAS and Alternator Belts let go. Boy is that MG ZT-T steering very heavy without the power assist. Even Arnie Schwarzenegger would struggle except in a straight line.

Right in the middle of the traffic light X-Roads was my little PAS Belt. No sign of the larger Auxiliary Drive Belt. So walked about 100 metres further and no sign of that belt. Just about to return to my car when I saw it. Someone had put it over a roadside fence post.

Now here's a puzzler. BOTH belts were intact! No sign of tears or breakages at all. I'd be tempted to reuse them but, of course will not do. So what made both come off their pulley assemblies? A mystery that I may never solve. I'm now wondering about the PAS Pump seizing up..

I got a couple of MEGA 150 Amp Fuses from the breakers. I also looked at the large number ( possibly 500+ ) of the batteries removed from breaker cars. Spotted a fairly new BOSCH so asked at the office if I could borrow their Battery Tester. That showed a healthy reading. So at a mere £15 quid for a near new battery I was well pleased.

Anyone ever had Belts let go AWOL undamaged? Most unusual.

I fitted the MEGA Fuse to the SORN ZT-T and the used BOSCH Battery bought today on that car. That SORN car's fuse I removed and fitted to the other car. I then turned the Key of the SORN car and was pleased to observe it burst into life. That's the ZT-T I fitted the MG6 engine which had not been started for a few months now.

Started to rain then so did not touch a car again from late afternoon at all today.
 
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