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cityrover
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Right, after yesterdays debacle regarding K-Seal and my 416i, I've decided it may save some hassle if I flush the coolant system - which looks to me like a quick and costless job. With luck, the K-goop has already fixed whatever problem is there and hopefully yet without damaging anything important.

Is there an agreed way of doing this? I know not to stick a hosepipe in the expansion tank and let it rip, I've seen people demonstrate how to blow apart a radiator doing that.
Do I just unplug the bottom radiator hose and pour water through the expansion tank, letting it run through? Should I purchase any additives to help with this (I've seen a lot of flushing kits around, but like the K-Seal, would these be similarly pointless/dangerous?)

Many thanks - just want to be reasonbly safe before I take it for a 300 mile trip on Monday.
 

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i'm doing mine later and was planning on flushing from the top rad hose to the bottom!

i was worried about flushing from the expansion bottle because I thought it may cause an airlock!
 

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cityrover
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ah, I didn't think of that. Hopefully an expert will shed some light :)
I suspect you could cause an airlock whichever way you do it, however thats from my home plumbing knowledge (well i've blown something up in the home as well as fixed it - I always learn from mistakes, best (but not cheapest) way!
I've found something in my service manual saying to open a bleed screw when refilling but it's a bit vague :|
 

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Don't worry with airlocks because in the end you'll need to bleed the system, so the major part of air will leave the circuit through that bleed screw (it´s below the distributor, in the metalic tube that goes to the thermostat - back of the engine).

Similar to this one, although this is from a K1.1 engine (the sensor that you see on the photo is the coolant temp sensor, near the outlet elbow):




Connect the heater to the max temp (hot), fill very slowly through the expansion tank (to avoid the airlocks), let all the air come out from the bleed screw, screw it, proceed filling up slowly until you reach the Max mark on the expansion reservoir.

That's the basic, but you may find better instructions around here, just make a search (there are "thousands" of threads with this :lol: ). Someone will tell you how to flush it properly.
 

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cityrover
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thats brilliant, cheers
Ive had a search through these forums and a common thing is "Turn the heater on full"
Would this need to be actually on, i.e. ignition on? I assume the engine won't need to be running. Or is it just opening something up to let it do the job properly.
 

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cityrover
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Kryt said:
Thats brilliant, cheers
Ive had a search through these forums and a common thing is "Turn the heater on full"
Would this need to be actually on, i.e. ignition on? I assume the engine won't need to be running. Or is it just opening something up to let it do the job properly.
Doesnt need to be with the ignition on. I would also run the engine for 5 mins after doing this, and then open the bleed screw again to check for any air thats been moved around by the water pump.
 

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twin-cam25 said:
i'm prety sure you just have to move the dial to hot, but not actually put the fans on say 4!!
The coolant runs through the heater matrix inside the car, this is what warms the interior of the car up. When the dial is set on hot, it opens a vavle which means the coolant can flow through it. Theres no need at all to put the fan on hehe. Dont even need the keys in the ignition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Good, sounded risky either way, but it's good to know :D
It's times like this when having this sort of community really shines - I think we can all be grateful for mg-rover.org.
 

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to flush it remove bottom hose from rad.

After my head gasket went I dropped the hose in the expansion bottle and let it run for half an hour pretty slowly so there was a steady stream from the bottom.

people have mentioned washing powder, but thats after the head gasket has gone. I think forte sell specific stuff. A search should bring it up.

once you refill, get a 50/50 mix, fill to the level, cap off, get it up to temp, open bleed screw until coolant runs out steadily, close and top up, sit there for a bit and make sure the fan comes on!
 

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cityrover
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'll give that a shot later when i've got a jack handy - seems i need to remove the underbelly panel to get to that hose beforehand. I'm just looking at pouring water in from the expansion take and running it out the bottom - do I need to be pouring water in at the same time as it's coming out to prevent airlocks?
I've bought some flushing solution too, cheap stuff.
 

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cityrover
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Radiators arent expensive in the slightest, sometimes easiest just to buy a new one as thats where most of the corrosion occurs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
There was a slight radiator leak prior to me buying this back in September - one I noticed when looking round it, and the dealer was good enough to have this replaced for brand new. I did check the radiator itself for leaks and the surrounding hoses & clips, all seems fine. But yes, always a good fallback anyway, can seem to pick the rads up for around 30 a peice.
 
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