[Renegade Crab]

i have had front components and rear speakers fitted a few months back, they are made by vibe and are pretty good, im thinking about amping the back ones and maybe the front too. i have seen a 1600 watt 4 channel amp on ebay going for not very much, is this what i would need?

secondly i do not know how to go about fitting the amp or how to make the speakers go through the amp? do i need to rip out all the cars standard wiring and re run it through the amp? or is it just a case of extending the wires from the speakers to the amp and then back from the amp to the speakers? this sounds right to me but i thought id check? never done anything like this before, but i really want more power out of my speakers, the 6*9's say they are 300 watts and i know they are getting no where near that.......

 

[Antony]

Ok heres the basics
instead of the wires coming from the back of your head unit to your speakers. They go head unit - amp - speakers.
However depending on your head unit you may be able to use phono leads from your head to your amp,thus making things easier and a lot better quality.
The amp will do this job just fine. Its got 4 channels and your powering 4 speakers on different sides of the car, perfect.
You will really need to up grade the wires from the amp to the speakers with better quality cable than the standard fit in your car. prob cost about £1 per meter.
You also need to power the amp, this is the more difficult bit. You need to run a permanent - supply as well as a + supply which only comes on when the ignition is on. if you wire up the amp so it works permanantly then you'll drain your battery when your cars off ( learnt that the hard way, DOH !! )

With component speakers in the front,6 by 9's and a decent amp ... your car will sound a million times better.

need anymore info or explaining better ..give me a shout ( PM )

 

[mulletboy2]

Decent speaker cable is £0.50/metre from www.caraudiodirect.co.uk (the blue 16AWG stuff). And yes, you should definitely rip out the standard stuff (or just disconnect it), and connect some better cable up. You will however need a wiring kit for the amp, so you'll probably get the speaker wire with this.

The positive supply for the amp should be permanent live, not ignition live. The remote wire output from the headunit (blue) should connect to the remote input on the amp. This is the signal that tells the amp to turn on, and it's when you get this wire confused with a permanent live that you end up with the amp permanently on - the permanent live to the amp does nothing (well, very little) until the remote signal is being sent to the amp also.

The amp on ebay doesn't have a hope in hell of doing 1600W, but it should atleast be fine for powering front and rear speakers. Your headunit will be doing somewhere around 10-20W per channel at best, and this amp (seeing as they're blatantly lieing about figures) will probably do more like 40-80W per channel.

HTH

Mark