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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Rover 25 has developed a starting problem . Basically you turn the key to start and nothing happens for anywhere between 2 and 45 seconds then the engine turns over and immediately fires up.

I've traced the problem back to the IAC valve - if I disconnect it and then try to start the car it starts immediately every time.

The valve itself is also quite noisy in operation, when you turn the key to start it makes lots of clicking noises for about 5 seconds. Also when you turn the engine off it also starts clicking again for 5 seconds or so.

Not having owned a Rover before, I'm wondering if this is normal - what do you guys think?
 

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PC_ said:
My Rover 25 has developed a starting problem . Basically you turn the key to start and nothing happens for anywhere between 2 and 45 seconds then the engine turns over and immediately fires up.

I've traced the problem back to the IAC valve - if I disconnect it and then try to start the car it starts immediately every time.

The valve itself is also quite noisy in operation, when you turn the key to start it makes lots of clicking noises for about 5 seconds. Also when you turn the engine off it also starts clicking again for 5 seconds or so.

Not having owned a Rover before, I'm wondering if this is normal - what do you guys think?
It sounds like your IACV is behaving normally.

Starting problem is more likely the starter solenoid
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
cjmillsnun said:
Starting problem is more likely the starter solenoid
If that was the case, why does it always start fine when the IAC valve electrical conection is disconnected....?
 

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other_rover
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get antoher IAC from a scrappy for a fiver and try it out, if it behaves tehsame way you can be reasonably sure that the one on your car is ok :)

does the engine crank and not start? or not crank atall until teh IAC valve is unplaugged?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Not cleaned it yet - didn't know if it's a clean with carb cleaner jobby or a lube with WD40??????

Nope no cranking, nothing whatsover except for the IAC valve making lots of clicking noises. It will crank eventually after X amount of time, however with the IAC unplugged it does not display this behaviour and cranks immediately the key is turned to start.
 

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mgf
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Use a plastic polish, like Greygate or similar. Undo the two bolts (try not to drop the lower one!) and separate the two halves (its a tight interferance fit, pull firmly). Then use a cloth and some Greygate clean the 'prong' and the housing and the hole on the other half.

Also, get hold of some electrical contact cleaner from Halfrauds or similar and do the multiplugs.
 

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PC_ said:
If that was the case, why does it always start fine when the IAC valve electrical conection is disconnected....?

Still think it's the starter solenoid. Check the big spade connector, I bet it's loose.

The IACV circuit and the starter solenoid have nothing to do with each other.

You can crank the engine with all sensors including the ECU disconnected.

Only guess is that by disconnecting the IACV the connector has been moved enough to make better contact.

The only common component is the Relay pack.
 

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The R25 uses the same system as the ZR and I had something VERY similar with mine.I put the key in the ignition and turn it, nothing, no clicking no dimming of lights, nada.

I too thought it was the starter and even replaced it, same problem. It was never the same twice. Sometimes it would start first time, sometimes it would take several minutes. Didnt matter if it was hot cold or had just started or what, it was totally unpredictable, but very frustrating.

Took it to a local dealer (I use the term loosely) who diagnosed it as a loose earth bolt on the front valence, charged me £54 for the pleasure (even though it was still under warranty) only to have the car do it again as soon as I got in (they told me I was imagining it). It was never this as I proved when I removed the bolt and cable and the car still started OK.

Eventually took it to a proper dealer who diagnosed a faulty ignition module. The 25 and the ZR both have an induction loop built into the ignition switch. If you try and start the car, the coil interrogates your key fob and if it isnt the right fob or is missing then it wont let you start the car. It should sound a warbling warning but not always (as was the case with mine). If you want to try it for yourself, remove the key fob from your keys and leave it well away outside the car and then try and start it.

Once the ignition switch was changed, the fault disappeared, never to reoccur (and this dealer. Phoenix of Oxford (used to be Alexance) repaid me the £54 I had been ripped off by the other so called dealer. I have to be careful of mentioning them publicly as they have already threatened me with slander and libel, and told me that I would only ever get second class service from them as I didnt buy my car from them). Nice people :flipa:

Sorry for the rant as well
 
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