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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi,

when i bought my car i checked the exhaust manifold bolts and 2 were quite loose so i tightened them up a little bit, i tightened them up very carefully and just nipped them

today after hearing a knocking i thought id check them again and 1 of them was loose,

i tried to tighten it up a bit but it kept going around without too much resistance, will look again later as i didnt want to keep turning it but it make tighten up, now very worried that the head will need helicoiling?

any one else had this problem?
 

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quite a few unfortunately :(

i suffered this after fitting the GT28R turbo.

but it took several months to get worse.

helicoiling is the only way to put a stop to it......
 

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Yes its a very common problem and could also be the cause of the knocking noise you also have when cold.

When the head is removed get the affected holes helicoiled to repair them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i hope this is my knocking noise but im not sure,

how much does it cost to have helicoiling done? and do u think i could give him the head with all the valves etc in the head as i dont want to take them out
 

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Yes, no problem. you can just about do it with the head on the car but as you are removing it anyway it is much easier when done on the bench. It isn't really expensive but I've not had one done in years so I'm not sure of the exact price. Ask your local place and they should know all about it as it is such a common problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ok cool, ill get it done and am i supposed to replace the bolts with studs?

whats the difference?

thanks
john
 

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the actual process of fitting a helicoil only takes a few minutes really so i doubt a garage would charge too much for it. get a quote, then compare to the price of a helicoil kit. may work out cheaper to buy the kit and do it yourself. just a thought.
 

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Using studs tends to lengthen the life of the threads in the head rather than using bolts so it is recommended to fit studs or you can fit long bolts and an extra nut on its length to use to tighten up the manifold.
 

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mg_zt_t
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the actual process of fitting a helicoil only takes a few minutes really so i doubt a garage would charge too much for it. get a quote, then compare to the price of a helicoil kit. may work out cheaper to buy the kit and do it yourself. just a thought.
Using studs tends to lengthen the life of the threads in the head rather than using bolts so it is recommended to fit studs or you can fit long bolts and an extra nut on its length to use to tighten up the manifold.
Couple of years ago I got a T16 head cleaned up with a very light skim ( about 8 thou ) and the middle exhaust manilfold bolt had sheered off flush. The light skim, bolt drilled out (needed helicoil to rectify ) cost me 30 quid. Money well spent. I was then able to use five new studs and nuts to fit the exhaust manifold ~ recommended ... proper job ..;)

By the way, the 'engineer' who did the work for me ( as well as some other work since ) works out of a large well equipped shed in his large garden. I originally took that head to a pukka engineering outfit (many small outfits around Gloucester's many Industrial Estates ) but they were too busy with large contracts to help. The manager of one recommended this one man band guy with his garden shed. Very useful contact and reasonable charges.

I once had a turbocharger elbow bolt sheer off flush in the turbo. I did not overdo things... the very long one was nearly out and suddenly tightened up then sheered off! Very strange. Those bolts are made of very tough steel and none of my drills could cope. This Guy was able to whip out the remains of that very tough bolt in no time ... charged me a fiver. Jobs like these are a doddle when you have the right tackle...;)
.
 

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hellicoil kits

You can buy hellicoil kits from most diy stores now days for about twenty quid, just make sure if you do that it is drilled square and that the tap comes with the kit. Its a simple job though, dont forget to reverse the fitting tool until the end breaks free and then remove it.
 

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mg_zt_t
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Following a change of ownership, my long time favourite Rover and MG parts supplier no longer caters for those cars' spares. I got 20 T16 exhaust manifold studs from my local Land Rover spares counter for less than a tenner. A little discount ... Also the new nuts.

Then replaced all those original corroded bolts and nuts on the exhaust manifolds of the family T16 turbos renewing the exhaust manifold gaskets at the same time. A better solution in my opinion once any damaged threads are helicoiled....
 

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what size heilcoil kit would one buy as i'm tempted to have a go at tightening the actuator rod and that may well involve updoing the mainifold bolts !!
 

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ah yes the impossible to get to rattly actuator rod! mine has this prob but may well involve removing manifold/turbo or whatever to sort out
 

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you can remove the turbo without undoing the manifold, if you undo the manifold to turbo connection. Models with aircon will struggle for access but others give enough access to adjust the actuator rod or even remove the turbo entirely.
 

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you can remove the turbo without undoing the manifold, if you undo the manifold to turbo connection. Models with aircon will struggle for access but others give enough access to adjust the actuator rod or even remove the turbo entirely.

Guess who has aircon lol, even tho it doesn't work but thats a diff story!!
 

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mg_zt_t
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you can remove the turbo without undoing the manifold, if you undo the manifold to turbo connection. Models with aircon will struggle for access but others give enough access to adjust the actuator rod or even remove the turbo entirely.
Yes, you can.

However, when working on the car for the first time, I have never been able to undo those four 10mm bi-hex nuts which secure the turbo to the manifold except when the manifold~turbocharger assembly is off the car.

However, when reassembled, much later on if necessary, I can then undo those difficult of access bi-hex nuts once I've previously cracked them off the car and cleaned up their stud threads. Things like that make a world of difference.
 

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Yes, you can.

However, when working on the car for the first time, I have never been able to undo those four 10mm bi-hex nuts which secure the turbo to the manifold except when the manifold~turbocharger assembly is off the car.

However, when reassembled, much later on if necessary, I can then undo those difficult of access bi-hex nuts once I've previously cracked them off the car and cleaned up their stud threads. Things like that make a world of difference.
bi-hex is that special socket time?
 

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Normal bolts are hexagon shaped. If you look at some sockets they are also hexagon shaped too, but some are also bi-hex, i.e. they have 12 corners instead of 6. The nuts on the turbo are also bi-hex (which is a bit unusual). If you have a bi-hex socket, or ring spanner then they should fit fine. I managed to undo the missus turbo bi-hex things with a little ratchet spanner but then sometimes I don't know my own strength!.
 

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Normal bolts are hexagon shaped. If you look at some sockets they are also hexagon shaped too, but some are also bi-hex, i.e. they have 12 corners instead of 6. The nuts on the turbo are also bi-hex (which is a bit unusual). If you have a bi-hex socket, or ring spanner then they should fit fine. I managed to undo the missus turbo bi-hex things with a little ratchet spanner but then sometimes I don't know my own strength!.
hmmmmmmmmmm think i may have a 10mm sockect like you discribe about somewhere, maybe something for the weekend if it's dry!
 
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