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Chaps I've been researching this, and to be honest still quite confused.
The situation is that I have 3 out 4 of mount bolts sheared off in the bolt holes.

The repair options that my research has made me aware of are as follows.

1. Left handed drill bits (reverse threaded) to remove the remnant. If successful and bolt hole thread is not damaged, then I would only have to replace the bolts with new ones.

OR

2. If 1 above removes remnant but also strips bolt hole thread, then I would have to Tap and Die a new thread into the bolt hole. Would this achieve sufficient support and allow me to torque to the specified nm?

OR

3. Hellicoil steel insert - similiar to 2 but probably stronger and would achieve required torque.


I have had no practice in any of the above so please any thoughts or suggestions would be most appreciated especially from those that have been through this before.

I bet CJJ could repair this sort of stuff in his sleep.
Try an 'easi-out' first - drill a hole into the snapped bolt then screw in the easi-out anti clockwise (its got a LH thread) the easi out then grips into the bolt and hopefully starts to wind it out - some heat will help as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
The problem with easy-outs is that they only really work with fairly unseized bolts. If the bolt is that stuck then you will probably snap the easy out in place, leaving you with a hardenend steel insert that will not easily (if ever) drill out.

Drilling the bolt out will most likely end in thread damage, retapping and the bolt will not torque up to correct value. This is the route I took and would not recommend it as my bolts did not tighten very much at all. I am monitoring it and will definitely be sorting it next time the sub frame is out, maybe before.

The one I would try is the helicoil. It has to be stronger. After that, I would drill out the spot welds, remove the bracket and either fit a new bracket or weld new nuts in place.
 

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helicoil

The one I would try is the helicoil. It has to be stronger. After that, I would drill out the spot welds, remove the bracket and either fit a new bracket or weld new nuts in place.
Thanks for that CJJ, Ok, I'll go for the helicoil.

I know this might be junior school stuff , but could anyone give me a little guidance in drilling out snapped bolts.

L/H or R/H drill bits ?
HSS or carbon ?
Drill speed ?
Drill bit size selection ?

I've tried the easi-out and it couldn't budge the seized bolts. I have got it to work on other bolts that have snapped.
 

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cityrover
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Hydrogas suspension additions

Just to add a little as I have been removing the engine on the F, Project ZR-F as it has now become, and as CJJ doesn't have Hydrogas suspension I thought I would add this how to to the list.
Its pretty simple really, jack up the front of the car and put blocks or something under the wheels to raise the height of the car as when you let the pressure out it gets very low and the front of the car will pivot on the underside when you jack up the rear to remove the engine. In my case it actually rests on the anti roll bar mounts at the front, I didn't raise my wheels before I released the pressure and there is no way to jack up the car after, its just way too low!



You will also need to chock the front wheels to keep it on the blocks, or it will roll away, not good!
Then jack up the rear of the car and proceed with removal as per the how to on here which is very good by the way.
After removing all the subframe mount bolts and before lowering the car back down onto the wheels undo the hose to sphere connector on both sides, its not too tight fortunately as access is a little tricky. You will lose a small amount of fluid from here.



The pipes clip onto the side of the subframe in two places accessed from the wheelarches and under the body as well, unclip them and pull them forwards of the rear wheels. This is one of the clips left on the subframe, I forgot to take a pic before removal sadly, but its straight forward really, its a black plastic hose the thickness of your finger, there's only one running forwards and down the subframe in the wheelarch.



On the passenger side you will need to remove the resonator box from inside the wheelarch which is secured with 2x 8mm bolts to access the pipe clips this side.



Then just follow the rest of the how to. Its simple, just remember to raise the front end off the ground before letting the pressure out otherwise you have to listen to your bodywork and bumper scraping the floor as you jack it up from the rear!

Also, when removing the gear linkage cables mine were a little stiff and I found that using a 19mm open ended spanner as a lever worked much better than two screwdrivers.

Just to add not one sheared bolt on a 12 yr old rusty car! :woo: :smug_git: :beerhat: That is all :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
Just removed a rear subframe from a 53 TF115 and the front securing bolts were Torx T30 bolts.
Is that a TF115 thing, an age thing, or what was in the rover bits bin at the time?
 

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mgf
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Just to add a little as I have been removing the engine on the F, Project ZR-F as it has now become, and as CJJ doesn't have Hydrogas suspension I thought I would add this how to to the list.
Its pretty simple really, jack up the front of the car and put blocks or something under the wheels to raise the height of the car as when you let the pressure out it gets very low and the front of the car will pivot on the underside when you jack up the rear to remove the engine. In my case it actually rests on the anti roll bar mounts at the front, I didn't raise my wheels before I released the pressure and there is no way to jack up the car after, its just way too low!



You will also need to chock the front wheels to keep it on the blocks, or it will roll away, not good!
Then jack up the rear of the car and proceed with removal as per the how to on here which is very good by the way.
After removing all the subframe mount bolts and before lowering the car back down onto the wheels undo the hose to sphere connector on both sides, its not too tight fortunately as access is a little tricky. You will lose a small amount of fluid from here.



The pipes clip onto the side of the subframe in two places accessed from the wheelarches and under the body as well, unclip them and pull them forwards of the rear wheels. This is one of the clips left on the subframe, I forgot to take a pic before removal sadly, but its straight forward really, its a black plastic hose the thickness of your finger, there's only one running forwards and down the subframe in the wheelarch.



On the passenger side you will need to remove the resonator box from inside the wheelarch which is secured with 2x 8mm bolts to access the pipe clips this side.



Then just follow the rest of the how to. Its simple, just remember to raise the front end off the ground before letting the pressure out otherwise you have to listen to your bodywork and bumper scraping the floor as you jack it up from the rear!

Also, when removing the gear linkage cables mine were a little stiff and I found that using a 19mm open ended spanner as a lever worked much better than two screwdrivers.

Just to add not one sheared bolt on a 12 yr old rusty car! :woo: :smug_git: :beerhat: That is all :D

Hi mate, just read your amend to cjj for the F, be aware unless you have a pump with vacuum disconnecting the spheres is a bad Idea. I copied CJJ exactly using ramps at the front. I found once I depressurised the system, could unbolt and move the spheres out of the way, while keeping them connected to the pipes.
 

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>.> bump... what do you mean by depressurising the system... I am thinking of tackling this project on my car as it has some problems that need to be sorted ie HGF... and I have hydragas suspension.

Will I need to unbolt the spheres from the rear of the car and can they remain full or do they need to be deflated and then I will need to get them repressurised... (im not sure if where i am in aus there is anyone that has a portable hydragas pump)
 

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Bit of a thread revival but just wonder what height your jack goes upto Clive? Been looking round today for one and the highest I could find was 500mm, will that be enough? Maybe I'll just get a lot of extra wood to pack it out :lol:
 

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mg_tf
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Thanks!

Thanks for all the shared knowledge and effort you made here. I'm busy working on an engine swap. So I have to do the trick four times!

Due to an accident my son had with my car (he's allright fortunately) I decided to use my damaged TF as a donor for a one year younger copy. Now with beige/gray leather interior. Far nicer but the engine was a mess. Valves have gone through the piston because someone had fixed the timing belt wrong.








So next picture looks familiar?



It has been more then 5 years now but all the credit still goes to you CJJ!

Regards, Ralph
 

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mg_tf
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The good engine



Putting the good engine aside for maintenance


Damaged engine (valves through piston number one)


Replaced the bad engine on my damaged TF. The total will be sold in parts


Notice that the cars aren't that much high in the sky. That's because I removed the oil filler assembly. Just a quick release connection and the result is about 20 cm less higher lifting the bodywork of the car.


I also disconnected the inlet valve from the cylinder head with all connections staying fastened at the bodywork. If you have to do this four times you get intelligent I must say.




What I shouldn't have done was disconnecting the gas tubes from the AC-pump. I should have disconnected only the AC-pump and let the tubes on as I'have to vaccum and fill them up again. That was a bummer, already done
 

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Not sure why, but whenever I see one in this position I get the urge to build a TF monster truck. ;)
That's because your a closset trucker :rocker:














or just sad ........................... LOL


Meanwhile back at the ranch ................................... once the front sub frame is replaced and wheels back on will be putting the 75th up in a similar position to remove the rear sub frame to sort out the clutch arm and clean off the sub frame. Migth as well do the cam belt etc whilst it's out and easy to get too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #117 ·
I know this is a horrendously old post but I'm gutted the images have largely gone, would be (and still is) a great reference!
The pics were stored on this site as I used to be a member. I did ask that they kept the pics for my how to's prior to me lapsing my membership, but they obviously didn't. I have just tried to edit the links, as all the pics are on photobucket, but the site won't let me make any changes. It keeps coming up with the message that it only allows edits to 10 posts every 7 days. I haven't been on for months.
You can find the pics here if you still need any. Engine/rear subframe. - How to remove
 
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