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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Chaps, I'm a total newbie and I'm forced into removing the engine because of a CAM BELT failure.

I've taken the HEAD off and can see broken valves and in the block I can see broken piston shell after removing the sleeve on cylinder 3.

I've never re-built bottom or top end of an engine and without any detailed instructions would not fancy taking it on. So my options are replace engine with secondhand or recon.

Question is, as I only want to replace the engine, and bearing in mind the head has been removed, would it be easier to take the existing engine through the top and put the replacement through the top or should I raise the car and then drop the engine??

Please let me know your thoughts
If you can do that then you should have been a gynecologist. I'm not saying it's impossible (although it might be), but I would always drop the subframe if the engine was to come out. It would prove so much easier in the end.
 

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Hi CJJ, great thread, just about to carry this out on an f. Any Idea if you can drop the rear subframe without depressurising the system. Saw a front subframe being removed on wrecks to riches by just tying the spheres out of the way. If not Anyone know where I can get a cheap pump from?
The problem with dropping without de-pressurising is that the system is something 450psi when presurised, you can clamp the spheres but if the clamp comes off your in trouble. Most Ex-Rover garages have a hydragas pump but remember that the system needs to be vacuumed if you have disconnected any hoses. This removes any air in the system. Some garages can only pump up the system, you need one that can vacuum(evacuate) the system as well.
 

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Gynae

Ok this is what I'm talking about in the pics I'm uploading. As I'm between jobs the suggestion of gynaecologist seems quite appealing, if I knew you better I'd ask if you could refer clients to me for a little practice....


 

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superb walkthru cjj wish you lived next door to my place. hope this can be moved to a how to in the near future. way better than a manual.
Im ok at taking things to bits, its the putting it back together that baffles me.
plus Im always worried about rusty bolts breaking off in the engine etc so you can't put new ones in without loads of hassle.
hats off to you buddy.
 

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Unfortunately, the offside 2 looked like this when removed. So they are either the worlds shortest bolts, or they have sheared off. I think I will have a bit of drilling to do.
I'm also suffering from short bolt syndrome, do you know of any tips HowTo's etc on how to resolve this.

I've never done it before but I'm guessing that the bolt remnant has to be drilled out with a bit of approx same diameter, and then a new thread tapped into it.

BTW I've just got my engine out, it's probably not sound advice but my main lifting tools were motorbike lift ramp thingys, got a pair for £80 (400kg each).
 

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cheers CJJ,
used your technique on my MGF this weekend. I ended up with three short bolts out of the four :-(. This is my donor car, when I take the blown engine out my project car. Any ideas if there is any prep work I can do to stop the bolts snapping? If I can add a note to your removal for the F. When you start raising the body from the subframe, de-pressurise the system (making sure the jack is in place) then remove the spheres from the subframe. no need to disconnect the pipes from the spheres, just unclip them from the subframe and move them out of the way. Then it is as your excellent how to.

Thanks again mate you are a guru
 

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Any ideas if there is any prep work I can do to stop the bolts snapping?
The best thing to do with these small bolts is use a close fitting hexagonal socket, then carefully loosen the bolts by half a turn, screw back in, then loosen a turn, then screw in etc. The threads have cleaning flutes cut into them, but they get clogged with rust, so you need to keep undoing and tightening up the bolts to let the rust come out.

I have just swapped over all eight subframe mounts on my 1998 F for solid ones, and the technique has worked perfectly...

Brian.
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
The best thing to do with these small bolts is use a close fitting hexagonal socket, then carefully loosen the bolts by half a turn, screw back in, then loosen a turn, then screw in etc. The threads have cleaning flutes cut into them, but they get clogged with rust, so you need to keep undoing and tightening up the bolts to let the rust come out.

I have just swapped over all eight subframe mounts on my 1998 F for solid ones, and the technique has worked perfectly...

Brian.
I didn't even get 1/4 of a turn out of the offside ones before they sheared.
 

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I didn't even get 1/4 of a turn out of the offside ones before they sheared.
same here, hopefully the other car is OK. It's in a better condition even though it's a year older and had a engine replaced by a dealer in 2003. Going to soak the box section in releasing oil and hope for the best. Where did you get the solid mounts from?
 

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I didn't even get 1/4 of a turn out of the offside ones before they sheared.
You must have been putting them under some pressure to shear them, the point of my technique is that you stop trying to force the bolt the minute you feel it's not moving, then tighten, then loosen a bit more etc.

I'm not saying it will get every bolt out, but I haven't had it fail yet when there is some movement in a bolt. If you get nothing from the minute you turn the spanner, then of course the bolt has fully seized and heat is generally only what'll take them out intact.

Where did you get the solid mounts from?
The smaller ones at the front of each subframe, new, from Rimmer Brothers. The larger rear ones, second hand, from an MGF breaker..

Brian.
 

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Repair broken mount bolts

Chaps I've been researching this, and to be honest still quite confused.
The situation is that I have 3 out 4 of mount bolts sheared off in the bolt holes.

The repair options that my research has made me aware of are as follows.

1. Left handed drill bits (reverse threaded) to remove the remnant. If successful and bolt hole thread is not damaged, then I would only have to replace the bolts with new ones.

OR

2. If 1 above removes remnant but also strips bolt hole thread, then I would have to Tap and Die a new thread into the bolt hole. Would this achieve sufficient support and allow me to torque to the specified nm?

OR

3. Hellicoil steel insert - similiar to 2 but probably stronger and would achieve required torque.


I have had no practice in any of the above so please any thoughts or suggestions would be most appreciated especially from those that have been through this before.

I bet CJJ could repair this sort of stuff in his sleep.
 
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