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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
A bit of rest, a bit of daylight and a bit of latteral thinking made all the difference.

These are the offending hoses. You can see the "buttons", one on each side of the coupling, which freely push in.



I used a pair of crimpers/wire strippers which have narrow jaws. Closed the jaws either side of the plastic coupling, just before the hose and then twisted the crimpers which levered either side off. Came off in seconds.

While raising the bodywork further I found 2 other connections. One to the bottom of the expansion/header tank



and one just above the gearbox.



While raising the bodywork I kept an eye on any fittings snagging. The only thing that came close was the dipstick/filler unit, which is the highest point of the engine. As the bodywork came up the filler cap started touching the boot bulkhead. I angled the engine forward a little to give clearance.



I then raised the body up until there was enough clearance for the subframe/engine.

I like this picture as it reminds me of the Citroen advert or a transformer, mid transform. :)



And a view from the side



As said previously, the highest point is the filler/dipstick, so as long as this clears the bodywork, the rest will follow.



As XR3TF said earlier, the subframe is front heavy. I got round this by using my other set of ramps to take the weight. I then used them as runners, or rails, by jacking the front of the subframe up, inserting a ramp as far as I could and then rolling the wheels backward. WHen the subframe got close to the end of the ramps flat bit, I then jacked the subframe up an inch, pushed the ramp under again and repeated this until the whole lot was clear of the bodywork.



And eventually, the subframe was clear. This is where the subframe will stay while I am working on it.



I then lowered the bodywork back to level and made it secure so that I could work on it.

Engine bay looks a bit bare now.



I might repost this later on as it is a bit fragmented and untidy.

Looking at the hidden (until now) corrosion, I will be busy for a while with a wire brush, hammerite and waxoil. It makes me even more determined to buy another subframe and get it galvanised.

Well, that's this job finished. I have removed the engine/subframe without major damage and/or killing myself/anybody else on the driveway. It can be done without professional garage time and cranes etc.

Next I will be changing the HG, fitting new clutch and release arm etc etc, so expect more how to's :)
 

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Great thread CJ :)

That dipstick filler, (as you will have by now doubtless seen), is easy to take off in the engine bay. Just another of those plastic collet type clips like the fuel line and brake vacuum line.
 

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Well done! Like you say, it is not nearly as complicated / daunting as one would think - the fear of the unknown is the worst part, until you've done it once.

Planning / preparation is however critical - one does not want to drop / stretch anything and cause damage. I removed the oil filler section every time I had to get subframe in or out - it just saves one lifting it that extra few inches. Removing it takes two minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Great thread CJ :)

That dipstick filler, (as you will have by now doubtless seen), is easy to take off in the engine bay. Just another of those plastic collet type clips like the fuel line and brake vacuum line.
It was an option, but I was trying to see how little I could get away with stripping the engine. The more bits I take off, the more I'll lose. :)
 

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hurray! good work mate, keep at it!

Whats the timescale for your planed work?

the SC project not nearing completion?

are you going to fit the new fuel tank whilst everything is out or leave that for the SC project?
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
hurray! good work mate, keep at it!

Whats the timescale for your planed work?

the SC project not nearing completion?

are you going to fit the new fuel tank whilst everything is out or leave that for the SC project?
I hope to have it all back together in the next few weeks, but it all depends on time, daylight and weather.

The SC project is plodding along behind the scenes. Have bought a Helix uprated clutch cover and I just need to buy a set of ARP flywheel bolts and clutch cover bolts and the whole lot is going off to Scholar for the conversion. Although, if they recommend use of ARP engine studs and associated machining, I will have to save for another month or 2.

I am indeed going to chop the bulkhead and fit the new fuel tank that I have. I think I will be cutting and welding the bulhead rather than shaping with hammers etc.
 

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Fantastic thread :)

Maybe the inspiration I need to go and replace my head gasket :scary:
I did mine with little or no knowledge, on the street (dont even have a drive like CJJ, and in Siberia (well Aberdeen). It took a while and there was some "incidents" but with this florum and the members on nit, you should manage and save HUNDREDS and get to really know your car ;)

Do it. Do it. Do it.

 

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Ok :)

I'm scouting this weekend (practice for the Cheshire Hike - so all weekend gone) - but will start stripping bits next week!

Sorry to hijack - but should I get the black head gasket (MLS) or another normal gasket (with red beading)? There is very little between them in price.
 
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