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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was on my way to work today in my Rover 214 iE 16v and went to accelerate pulling out onto a dual carraigeway, the revs died and the engine stalled. Couldn't get it started again so I had to call out Mr AA.

He got me going again and was able to demonstrate the fault by applying max throttle and the revs would die. His feeling was that it was either a fault fuel relay or faulty multi-function relay.

How much would I expect to pay for these items and is it most likely to be these? I don't really want to splash out on unnecessary items.

I have seen posts suggesting change of sparks, HT leads and distributor cap for similar problems, what cost am I looking at for these?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
 

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well relays are either on or off and if engine is running to start with then i would think relays would be ok.

sparks HT, cap and rotor arm all need changing every couple of years anyhow - so wont do any harm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Could it really be HT leads / cap / rotor arm though? Surely it would not start at all or run rough, not just when max throttle is applied?

Had a little play around tonight and it seems to be getting more difficult to start. This leads me to believe it is probably fuel related.

rover 620ti: How would the coil cause this sort of problem?

Thanks for the replies,

Mark.
 

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Hi, It could quite easily be the rotor arm faulty. As cylinder pressure rises the ignition system has a more difficult job to produce a spark at the plug. If the insulation of the rotor arm is at fault the spark from the coil can short to earth. To test the rotor arm remove the distributor cap, hold the coil lead with insulated pliers 10mm from centre of rotor arm & have someone crank the engine if there is a strong spark to the centre of the rotor arm it is faulty.

Regards Gary :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the suggestion Gary I will have a go at this on Saturday morning trying not to shock myself too much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I found the problem as soon as I removed the distributor cap. The rotor arm and the contacts in the cap were pretty corroded. I have cleaned it up and it is working again. Will be getting a new cap and rotor arm tomorrow.
Tried the insulation check using insulated pliers (well a piece of wood and some masking tape) and no spark.
 

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I remember having problems with my car (starting problems, not running problems). Took the dizzy cap off and there was nothing left of the centre pin.

God knows how the car was starting at all.
 
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