Hi


Also does anyone know why I can get a bit of looped wire so that I don't have to use the rod on the boot lock mech as I still want to be able to use my key.
Any pics of how it looks when fitted with the wire etc or a wiring pic of the switch to use would also be great.

Many Thanks in advance.

I used picture wire,available in your local DIY/handyman store,and used a stripped an electrical wire connector to hold it together,I'll see if I can get a picture in a mo

 

Wait... so if you use the boot popper kit, as it comes, you can't use the key as well?!

 

I used steel wire off an old bicycle, the wire you use for the brakes.

You can just see it over there:

As for the switch, I used a SAAB one but on the dashboard and covered when the door shuts:

This way cannot be opened whilst driving and always live, so car has to be unlocked and unalarmed to open.

 

Bit longer than a mo but here you go

 

I like the switch placement either in the cubby or on the side of the dash as per jordi's photo.

This is favourable because I guess its unlikely to release the boot lid going along where as in the centre console an easy mistake could be made.

 

Do the actuators pull on the locking mechanism to open?

I plan to do this mod ... I was thinking about allowing it to operate only when the hand-brake is applied, so it can't open when moving (unless doing hand brake turns, of course}

 

That motor pulls or pushes depending on which way you connect the wires, but yeah, in our case it pulls. Just thread a cable through the existing key mechanism so you still have both options.

 

Many thanks for the photos and ideas guys will give this a go.

 

I dont like the plastic actuators.. if you hold the power on for too long enough times they self destruct

I went for solenoids on my build instead

The ones I got pull 85lbs! but are adjustable.. to make the pull less..

Ive de-locked my boot lid completely
http://i1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc390/Dieseldestroyer/image-134_zps66d49dcf.jpg

Im surprised more people havent fitted one of these as an emergency back up.. for when the keys are locked in the boot
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Garage-Do...Key-Lock-3-Foot-Cable-/271041837915?pt=Garage_Doors_Openers&hash=item3f1b5a3b5b

 

1 out of 50 times my actuator won't work having to press it once again, I can live with that.

Then again it was cheap and I got what I paid for. Not really improving much of what the guys at Longbridge were doing as I keep fitting 'cheap' parts to it...

:sofa:

However, the best thing in case of emergency you know what it is:

 

Mine was cheap as I sourced the bits myself and it works first time,every time

 

I bought an electric boot popper from ebay (not sure if it is the same as yours druid) bit the suplier said I could still use the key as well as the popper. Don't know if he is correct as I havn't fitted it yet.

 

If it's the 'universal' one like mine then yes, you can use both key and the popper, it all depends how you fit it.

 

Other option is to make it wireless and add it as a 3rd button to your fob?

Not sure who else has done it though, I wouldn't mind but will wait a few months as the car has cost a lot recently.

 

I was looking into that idea, too. There are some inexpensive central locking / alarm systems on eBay with 4 button remotes.

My SAAB convertible had remote boot opening ... I miss it.

 

"Other option is to make it wireless and add it as a 3rd button to your fob?".....

There were some three button Pektron fobs on the bay recently. I wondered what would be involved in doing that. Wouldn't the ECU have to be programmed to it?

I am considering doing the boot popper mod. I haven't bought a kit as I have had an aftermarket central locking kit for four doors sitting in garage for a few years now which has the actuators. This particular kit uses infra red fobs and so the control unit must have the relevant relays built in. So - my question is (and probably going back to fundamental auto electrics here) what is the need for a relay?

 

I may be corrected here, but I remember from years ago the relay is to allow a heavy draw current through to the item, but the activating curcuit does not have to be heavy, so instead of you having heavy cable throughout the car you can have the control curcuit via lightweight cable and the direct feed - through the relay - heavy. If that makes sense!

 

Jord clear your inbox says its full

 

I did give you my email address... :wooman:

 

Here's a pic of the fob:

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=448163

 

To late for me as already bought mine but just found these might be of use to others and damn good price.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal...OR-Lock-CENTRAL-LOCKING-Slave-Pop-Boot-Popper-/400380471055?hash=item5d3889270f

 

Hi. If I buy this solenoid, what else will I need for the boot to open? Presumably some kind of switch wired into 12v and earth?

 

I thinking I might go for one of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Wire-DOOR-Lock-CENTRAL-LOCKING-Slave-Motor-Solenoid-/370369686017

Seem to be more powerful.

I'm also thinking of doing it for the bonnet release. Have any of you done an electric bonnet release?

 

I thinking I might go for one of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Wire-DOOR-Lock-CENTRAL-LOCKING-Slave-Motor-Solenoid-/370369686017

Seem to be more powerful.

I'm also thinking of doing it for the bonnet release. Have any of you done an electric bonnet release?

I have these much better :broon:

 

Thanks, I think I'll go with those.

 

Just fitted my popper kit today,I went with live all the time(for the day I shut my keys in and aren't at home to get the spare),and used the saab button as think it looks good and went for in the N/S footwell near the light,as the button is flush no chance of pushing it unless meant to.