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2002 MG TF VE51FTF
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm trying to spray up a handle in Trophy Blue, I've got a couple of coats on but it appears too dark will the clear coat lighten it? I used a darkish grey primer should I have used a light grey/white primer, I've sprayed a few things in the past but this is my first attempt at colour matching
 

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'06 MG ZR +120 (HQM) '04 MG ZR 105 (IAB)
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It's not unusual for DIY touching up/respraying to come out darker. Sometimes it is because the paint has not been mixed correctly (or that the system used doesn't have quite the right 'recipe' - I've usually found that paint mixed on the Nexa system comes out best for Rover colours). Using a lighter primer usually only means that you will need more colour coats to cover it up; I would stick with the standard grey primer for Trophy Blue.

Most often it is because the paint has been applied too thickly - rattle-can paint in particular has a much higher proportion of thinner than would be used in a bodyshop and needs building up in lots of very light coats otherwise the flake tends to sink out of sight in the wet paint before it flashes off, thus leaving the colour looking darker. The trick is to finish off with a couple of very light 'dust' coats which keeps the metallic flake where it should be. The clearcoat also tends to make the flake 'pop' a little more and so will also slightly lighten the general appearance.

It is highly unlikely that newly applied paint will be a perfect match - a combination of slight fading of the existing paintwork, coupled with slight variation of the colour mix makes it almost impossible to achieve perfection, but most bodyshops will be able to overcome the issue when respraying panels by feathering out across adjacent areas so that any difference doesn't show up. When painting just a door handle, it isn't really possible to do that successfully, so it is likely that the best you will be able to do is only going to be a close match (you will probably notice it because you know it is there, but other people are unlikely to see it unless it is pointed out to them!).
 

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Very informative & interesting comments by Man in the car. I had a very similar problem to Deepfat, except that my poor matching rattle-can was Starlight Silver (MBB) which also came-out too dark. From advice above I am wondering if I did not succeed with keeping coats light? Quite likely, as I was doing a wheel-arch area after removing & treating rust around spot welds. The clear coat lacquer did improve things, and cutting back towards the "lip" of the wheel-arch then re-lacquering also helped, but the remaining miss-match annoys me whenever I wash that area (not very often, fortunately!
 

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It's not unusual for DIY touching up/respraying to come out darker. Sometimes it is because the paint has not been mixed correctly (or that the system used doesn't have quite the right 'recipe' - I've usually found that paint mixed on the Nexa system comes out best for Rover colours). Using a lighter primer usually only means that you will need more colour coats to cover it up; I would stick with the standard grey primer for Trophy Blue.

Most often it is because the paint has been applied too thickly - rattle-can paint in particular has a much higher proportion of thinner than would be used in a bodyshop and needs building up in lots of very light coats otherwise the flake tends to sink out of sight in the wet paint before it flashes off, thus leaving the colour looking darker. The trick is to finish off with a couple of very light 'dust' coats which keeps the metallic flake where it should be. The clearcoat also tends to make the flake 'pop' a little more and so will also slightly lighten the general appearance.

It is highly unlikely that newly applied paint will be a perfect match - a combination of slight fading of the existing paintwork, coupled with slight variation of the colour mix makes it almost impossible to achieve perfection, but most bodyshops will be able to overcome the issue when respraying panels by feathering out across adjacent areas so that any difference doesn't show up. When painting just a door handle, it isn't really possible to do that successfully, so it is likely that the best you will be able to do is only going to be a close match (you will probably notice it because you know it is there, but other people are unlikely to see it unless it is pointed out to them!).
Instructions on how to apply the paint is on the can in black and white or black on yellow.
 

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'06 MG ZR +120 (HQM) '04 MG ZR 105 (IAB)
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Instructions on how to apply the paint is on the can in black and white or black on yellow.
Without knowing from where the OPs paint was sourced/what brand it is packaged under, it is not possible to make such a sweeping statement - I have a number of rattle cans from different sources which have very little in the way of instructions beyond the extremely basic.

At best, the wording on the container will only give a very general guide, and will not cover everybody's situation or problems they may experience. The process can be affected by many things - substrate, primer, behaviour of the nozzle, angle of spraying, atmospheric conditions (especially humidity and temperature) to name but a few.

If it was all as easy as simply following instructions on the can, everyone would achieve perfection every time (even with no prior painting experience).
 

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Without knowing from where the OPs paint was sourced/what brand it is packaged under, it is not possible to make such a sweeping statement - I have a number of rattle cans from different sources which have very little in the way of instructions beyond the extremely basic.

At best, the wording on the container will only give a very general guide, and will not cover everybody's situation or problems they may experience. The process can be affected by many things - substrate, primer, behaviour of the nozzle, angle of spraying, atmospheric conditions (especially humidity and temperature) to name but a few.

If it was all as easy as simply following instructions on the can, everyone would achieve perfection every time (even with no prior painting experience).
Yes I know all that. With respect why do you always seem to write an essay when you reply to posts?
 

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I would say that many members do not have experiance with painting and such information provided from members like @Man in the Car presents valuable help for them.
It is great that we have such members willing to share information in such posts for benefit of others.
 

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Purpose of the forums is to have long and explaining descriptions how things can be done. This is enormous help to people when seeking essential information and guidance.

Forums are on the contrary to social media where everything is quick, fast and short and in most time without real help to others.

I can understand that for some members this can be tiresome but sooner or latter everyone will be so grateful where they can find long descriptions and fruitful explanations which will help them out of their problems which most probably they would not be able to solve by themselves.
 

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2002 MG TF VE51FTF
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sorry I didn't mean to start an argument!
Man in the Car thank you for the information and I like reading especially if it's informative, your bit about the flake sinking does appear to have happened, looked sparkly wet and slowly faded. The colour match with more coats applied looks much better now, I dismantled the handle to spray it all but if the original (still on the car) has a serviceable lock plate I could just replace the handle on that in which case I don't think it will show.
 

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Yes I know all that. With respect why do you always seem to write an essay when you reply to posts?
I write as much as I think is needed to answer the question, or make the point. I see far too many one sentence replies to threads which simply fail to convey anything useful.
 

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Sorry I didn't mean to start an argument!
Man in the Car thank you for the information and I like reading especially if it's informative, your bit about the flake sinking does appear to have happened, looked sparkly wet and slowly faded. The colour match with more coats applied looks much better now, I dismantled the handle to spray it all but if the original (still on the car) has a serviceable lock plate I could just replace the handle on that in which case I don't think it will show.
I don't think you've started an argument, advice given on this forum is invaluable and I have benefited from a lot of it and I'm sure I will continue to. (Should that have been oo ?) Regards. D4KGP.
 
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