MG-Rover.org Forums banner

Do you think my tracking is out?

4557 Views 42 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  E_T_V


What a nice suprise the car gave me last night.
See less See more
1 - 20 of 43 Posts
Ouch, you alright? :(

Bottom ball joint let go?
I'm fine, the missus was driving my to casulty at the time!

Bottom ball joint indeed popped out of where it should have been.

Fortunatly on a straight road at 30mph. 60 seconds previously the missus was throwing it round country roads at 60mph.
Ah hope you're missus is okay. :)

Indeed it is lucky it was on straight bit of road, usually they let go turning a corner or on a roundabout.

Gather it was the original ball joint, if so did pretty well for what 260k+ miles if not then Lemförder or OEM is the way to go.
No it is a replacement one that I fitted only a couple of years ago. They don't last half as well as the originals! Not only that but there wasn't any warning.
Hi Any more damage done ? (or have you not had time to assess)
Is Ray joking .. 260k on a 620ti

2 yrs - how many miles on the 'new' bj then ? (chinese import ? - I share you concerns re. don't last even half as well )

My 618i has done 140k - still on original bj's (and wouldn't fancy this)
Trust you are well ...


Gordon
Not joking Gordon he has a diesel with moon miles IIRC.

Would be interested in knowing if it was a generic or a well known aftermarket ball joint.

Wonder how much damage has been done and if it is worth fixing?
ouch,
hope that hasn't done too much damage? is the wing ok?
hm.. looks bad.
Guess i better get them from my local Honda if needed... not worth saving a few bucks for some eBay joint if that could be the result.

/Joakim
  • Like
Reactions: 1
I have seen, on two occasions, fairly new (3 year old) cars that this has happened too, often at roundabouts or junctions when they are on a curve or a corner. One was a Hyundai and the other car, i can't remember the make.

Original parts seem to last longer than after market parts. My right upper wishbone is only a year old and the upper ball joint boot has started weeping grease. Time for a new one again, or probably a good one from the scrappy will outlast a new one.
If the roads didn't have those annoying pot holes then ball joint failure would be less likely. I think every jolt on pot holes accelerate joint wear, more so if you don't slow down for them.

My car tax is due soon and will be paying a hiked up fee then drive on roads that cause suspension damage.
It seems I go out of my way to avoid potholes, no one else here seems too.

I've seen nearly new 59/10/60 plate cars being driven at speed over a huge pothole which I avoid and when I reported it, it was part filled within 24 hours it was so bad.

Anyways xDGTx is breaking an Oxford blue 620si IIRC, good for a wing and a knuckle if needed.
hm.. looks bad.
Guess i better get them from my local Honda if needed... not worth saving a few bucks for some eBay joint if that could be the result.

/Joakim
Agree. Stuff is shockingly 'soft' ...Did a tie rod end on my lads Nova the other month, stripped the threads (I always use a torque wrench).. these from motor factors.
Wing seems ok.

New ball joints on order. Unipart ones this time.

The inner CV got tore out but I think that is repairable and the driveshaft still looks straight.

I've got some patching up of the undertray to do as the driveshaft tried to escape through it.

247k miles on my 600. Original ball joints lasted about 200k. Ball joints were from a motorfactor. Not sure if they were FAI or another make but branded stuff.

Having removed them both this evening, one is almost new, the other well you've seen the photos.

I need to check if the bottom arm is bent, but I think it'll be ok.

I'll also replace the track rod ends as one wouldn't come undone easily and I did them all at the same time last time.

One question to ask though, is does anyone elses bottom ball joints not have a circlip on? Mine never had circlips originally and there was nowhere to fit one on the car even though the new joints came supplied with them. Are there two types of bottom arm? Mine don't seem to have had an issue with the circlips at least but I just wondered if anyone else has the same type?
See less See more
Unipart ball joint should be Lemförder, however if it comes with a nyloc nut take it back.

247k close enough.

Have to ask are you sure you are looking the right place, the circlip goes under the boot, haven't seen any that didn't have them but then only seen a few.
Yes I know there should be a circlip, but my car never had one fitted to the originals when I removed them and when I replaced them I didn't fit one either and they all stayed put etc. I'm just confused as to if anyone else has had that issue?

Don't all the joints now have nyloc nuts. I've not seen a castellated nut in ages!
A nyloc nut with a ball joint or track rod end is usually a sign of cheap and nasty parts.

All the Lemförder parts I've seen have had the proper castellated nut and split pin setup.
the lemforder i just put on had this funny oval shaped nut that wouldnt go onto the thread properly so i was forced to use the old nut because the balljoint just kept spinning instead of tightening up
the lemforder i just put on had this funny oval shaped nut that wouldnt go onto the thread properly so i was forced to use the old nut because the balljoint just kept spinning instead of tightening up
Dunno all of the ones I've seen looked like this:

See less See more
And does the circlip fit around the top groove? That is where I assumed it would fit but there was no room on my car when they were fitted.
1 - 20 of 43 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top