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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Right im trying to refurb my alloys got all the components required.

Now I have sanded the alloys down with some wet and dry and filled in the chips and scratches with some Isopon P38. All smooth ready to be sprayed. I have tried a little test on the inside of my rims and I'm worried...

I have sprayed it with about two coats of spray paint (Alloy Silver) and about two coats of clear Laquer just to give me an idea of how it will look, looks real good HOWEVER! If I slightly like rub with my nail or a pen it starts peeling! I’m wondering how long will this really last! :(

Am I doing something wrong? or have i missed something here, I didn’t think the alloys needed primer so don’t think that would make the difference? Anyway is there like a tough after coat you can put on above the lacquer to give it that durability? What have you guys noticed with DIY refurbs?

Any help much appreciated.

Cheers
 

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Neds said:
Right im trying to refurb my alloys got all the components required.

Now I have sanded the alloys down with some wet and dry and filled in the chips and scratches with some Isopon P38. All smooth ready to be sprayed. I have tried a little test on the inside of my rims and I'm worried...

I have sprayed it with about two coats of spray paint (Alloy Silver) and about two coats of clear Laquer just to give me an idea of how it will look, looks real good HOWEVER! If I slightly like rub with my nail or a pen it starts peeling! I’m wondering how long will this really last! :(

Am I doing something wrong? or have i missed something here, I didn’t think the alloys needed primer so don’t think that would make the difference? Anyway is there like a tough after coat you can put on above the lacquer to give it that durability? What have you guys noticed with DIY refurbs?

Any help much appreciated.

Cheers
You do need to prime them mate. Primers what helps the paint adhere ~ no primer = peeling paint as you've already discovered. A couple of coats of etch primer followed by 3 or 4 thin coats of high build should see your top coat stay on nicely ~ this is the method i've used in the past and its been ok. Best of luck :)
 

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Also bear in mind that lacquer can take a couple of weeks to fully harden, even when spray baked in a bodyshop, hence why they tell you not to polish new paint for a couple of weeks.

Allthough the lack of primer seems to be the main cause of your problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Right cheers. So this Etch Primer, is this the spray variety? as it seems to be hard to come by. Is there anything ontop of the lacquer you can use to give it that durable finish, im worried that after constant washing with cleaning products it will peel off :(
 

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You can buy alloy wheel sealants that provide extra protection to the lacquer in much the same way as sealants and waxes protect your clear coat on the bodywork paint.

I know AutoGlym do a spray on wheel sealant, just tried some on my alloys, not sure what the durability is like yet tho.
 

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Pretty sure i've seen aerosol etch primer in halfrauds recently. For a super tough finish though you cant beat powder coating, but not a DIY option unfortunately :(
 

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Etching primer hard to come by?...Not really most primer you will buy in a spray can is etching primer.
The grey stuff Halfords sell is etching primer.

As long as you make sure the primer has a key to grip onto and you give it a good few coats to get good covereage then the paint shouldn't flake off.
Let the primer dry fully before putting the paint coat on. Cure the paint with a hairdryer between layers and then give the final coat a good blast with the hairdryer to get it baked on. After this leave it for an hour then laquer.
Follow the same process with the laquer. Leave it for at least a day before handling.
The paint should fully harden in about 2 weeks, until then go easy.
 

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My understanding of etch primer as opposed to high build was that high build needs a keyed surface to adhere to properly whereas etch does this chemically. Also, high build has filler properties in that its thicker. Halfords do a specific product labelled as etch primer ~ same stuff different can?? :lol:

To OP, make sure you get a good build up around the lip of the rim as this is where flaking is most prone and once moisture gets under the paint it tends to get worse and worse. Also, tyres with a rim protector bead are a sound investment if the existing ones need changing soon. Hope all thats of some use to you :)

Lucky
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well the thing is I have not fully stripped the alloys just problem areas, so will this require the whole of the alloys sanded roughly then the etch primer applied? or could i just spray the etch primer on top of the part of the alloys which is not damaged?
 

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etch works best on bare metal, but it should 'bite' into the existing surface provided its been rubbed down to get the gloss off it. I just gave mine a good going over with 1200 grit wet and dry, then spirit wiped it all before priming. As someone else said, let each coat dry fully before applying the next one, take your time, remember that lots of thin coats are better than a couple of thick ones (also less prone to runs, blooming etc) and be gentle with them for the first couple of weeks to let the paint cure fully and you cant go wrong :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
OK cheers mate, will give it a go, was planning to do it this weekedn but havent got the primer will have to pop into hellfrauds tos ee what they got!
 

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Hi

I've just started refurbing my 17" straights because they started to go very yellow.

see the difference!


I was worried I'd have the same problem as you because I just keyed the whole area and went to paint but after 48 hours the paint it fine. I tried scratching a hidden bit with my nail and they were fine. I know they'll take a little longer to harden when I apply the laquer but it was all just cheap **** from halfords.
 
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