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mg_tf
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Hurray! Lights again!

Thanks to Carl's electrical skills and some power rerouting everything is back to "normal".

Thanks again!
 

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I had this problem, and found this thread. This is the culprit. The circuit has burned out. It's an easy fix, you need to buy conductive silver paint - the sort you use to repair rear window heaters (Halfords sell it, or readily available online)

The problem is LEDs, the PCB can't handle the extra strain (even though they are low energy?) It may be the ones I had were faulty, but I am not taking the risk. It's back to bulbs for me.

I found some 286 bulbs that had blue glass, so they are the ones for me 😁


Font Wood Audio equipment Electronic instrument Office equipment
 

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mg_tf
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Interesting little pcb. It seems the tracks are printed on clear flexible film. The tracks neck down to a smaller width in places and I think these narrow areas are meant to act like fuses, except of course you can't easily put a new bit of copper track fuse in if it blows, but it'll protect the pcb from overcurrent at least once.

I can't imagine LEDs are the problem as they tend to take considerably less current than filament bulbs (for the same light output) so the track blowing would seem a bit of a mystery, but these things happen.

It might also be possible to solder a fine wire across the blown track ends as long as that clear film will handle heat, which I'm not sure of...
 

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Interesting little pcb. It seems the tracks are printed on clear flexible film. The tracks neck down to a smaller width in places and I think these narrow areas are meant to act like fuses, except of course you can't easily put a new bit of copper track fuse in if it blows, but it'll protect the pcb from overcurrent at least once.

I can't imagine LEDs are the problem as they tend to take considerably less current than filament bulbs (for the same light output) so the track blowing would seem a bit of a mystery, but these things happen.

It might also be possible to solder a fine wire across the blown track ends as long as that clear film will handle heat, which I'm not sure of...
 

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Sadly, I wasn't able to fix it with conductive paint, so I had to bite the bullet and but a second hand instrument cluster. I just need to swap out the PCB, which is a few screws and a few bulbs
 
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