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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have whined about this slightly already on my other thread, but here goes, becuase - I NEED HELP!

After the HGF last week, everything seemed fine, but after a run up the motorway at the weekend, the car has turned into a rolling gas chamber....

Symptom: Naseuating Sulphurous (rotten-egg) stench.

This is getting dangerous, becuase it really is overpowering now and its hard to drive without becoming affected by it.

1. Fans on cool = just hideous.
2. Fans on hot = OK, no smell.
3. No fans on = slight whiff only, OK really.
4. A/C on = no problems.

other things: A/C has never run cold since I bought it, pollen filter was changed a couple of Months ago, apparently was really flooded and manky, all cleaned up now though.

Any ideas?
 

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I'd say that you need to run an aircon cleaner through the system but you say you've never used it?

Do you get this smell with the air on recirculate or just when it's on fresh air?
 

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from the post, its there when cold air is coming in, not when AC is on and not when heater is on.

sounds like theres soemthing foul and smelly in the intake tract to me
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK have been running my nose over the engine, my theory was perhaps some type of sealant used in the HGF had split on the manifold and was now burning off hence the guff....BUT....unless I'm very much mistaken the smell is coming from the BATTERY TERMINALS and little damp patches around them.


Any ideas anybody? do batteries contain sulphur or can a deritive of the contenets from battery wear/damage create sulphur or something very similar (rotten egg) smell.


Help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK, the garage say if the alternator is over-charging the batt "it will smell like rotten eggs" bearing in mind when the HGF went the battery bizzarly went completely dead in about 10-15mins the batt might be knackered anyway?

There are little wet pools by both terminals.

Think we are getting closer.

options:

The garage will check the alternator output for me (not local).

I swap for a new battery (very local and much easier).

Its a '51 and still seems to have the orignal Rover batt, nothing in the paperwork points to a batt change previously.......
 

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stolen from somewhere, do a goole search but read below and act asap.


Automobile batteries can sometimes explode and blow sulphuric acid onto anything that is nearby. If the battery feels hot to the touch or smells like sulphur (rotten eggs), do not run the engine, and do seek professional automotive help, unless you are confident you can handle the situation yourself. The main thing is don't create a spark, which could ignite the sulphuric acid vapors and cause an explosion. Beware! It is best to wear protective goggles, wear gloves, and have baking soda and water nearby to neutralize the acid, if needed. The next step, after the battery has cooled off, is to disconnect the negative battery terminal first, then the positive terminal. Then remove the battery. Clean up the area, if needed. Replace the old battery with a new one. Then, you need to find out what went wrong with the old battery. Sometimes the cause of the problem is "electrical system overcharging." Usually this means you need to replace the alternator. If you merely replace the battery without fixing whatever caused it to go bad, the new one will go bad, too
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
kandyman said:
stolen from somewhere, do a goole search but read below and act asap.


Automobile batteries can sometimes explode and blow sulphuric acid onto anything that is nearby. If the battery feels hot to the touch or smells like sulphur (rotten eggs), do not run the engine, and do seek professional automotive help, unless you are confident you can handle the situation yourself. The main thing is don't create a spark, which could ignite the sulphuric acid vapors and cause an explosion. Beware! It is best to wear protective goggles, wear gloves, and have baking soda and water nearby to neutralize the acid, if needed. The next step, after the battery has cooled off, is to disconnect the negative battery terminal first, then the positive terminal. Then remove the battery. Clean up the area, if needed. Replace the old battery with a new one. Then, you need to find out what went wrong with the old battery. Sometimes the cause of the problem is "electrical system overcharging." Usually this means you need to replace the alternator. If you merely replace the battery without fixing whatever caused it to go bad, the new one will go bad, too

We have a winner.

The battery is very hot still, considering I arrived at work at 8am.

Thanks k-man.
 

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looks like you was getting there by yourself, but it sounds bad "BOOM" so get it looked/fixed as soon as you can John,

This is a uncommon problem but one i feel could be put in the new FAQs been wrote as it could lead to serious problems
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sound good to me, go for it.

Potentially very dangerous.

There is a Halfords about 1.5 miles away from me, I'll go straight there after work and get them to lend me a spanner and change the batt once its cooled down. I'm arranging to get the alternator checked tomorrow.

Phew, sounds like a lucky escape! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Will do, have my engineer friend coming round with his volt meter later this afternoon.

Perhaps he can look at the faulty seats too and the headlight, trim, electrics, temp gauge, A/C......etc.....etc.....etc...... :)
 

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keep working at them 1 by 1 and soon you will have them all sorted.I know fault finding can be a right pain in the (_!_) but it great when you get one fixed :D and this is a great palce to help you along your way. So when your ready to start on your next fault post away and we'll all help and learn at the same time :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I wish I felt as optimistic as you K-man.


Anyways, here's the skinny:

Bought a new battery at Halfords Nos.96 (Hb) @ £66.99.

Changed it over, the old battery has been out of the car a couple of hours and is still real hot to the touch - amazing.

With the car running at 3k revs and the lights and rear screen heater on, the alternator is still kicking out about 14.5v.

Now this is heavy, but borderline, not too worrying at this stage, it seems highly likely that the alternator is probably at fault and needs replacing, never heard of one kicking out too many volts though, bizarre.

Will leave at new battery for now, unless it acts up again straight away, this battery has a vent valve unlike its precedessor so at least thier is less chance of an explosion if anything.

Hopefully the fact the old batt went down to about 2.5 volts in 15 mins after the head gasket failed and was then charged right up meant it could'nt handle the heavy load from the alternator and was on its way out - I really would just like to leave it at the new battery for the moment, its cost me so much recently.


Oh and by the way, looked at the A/C gas and......there is NONE WHATSOEVER, no pressure at all :)
 

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Overcharging

Yup! Alternators will overcharge if faulty and boil the battery. Don't run it too much or you will ruin your new battery. Have the alternator checked or it will cost you even more in the long run. Run with headlights and rear screen heater on to take away some of the overload.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Mike T said:
Yup! Alternators will overcharge if faulty and boil the battery. Don't run it too much or you will ruin your new battery. Have the alternator checked or it will cost you even more in the long run. Run with headlights and rear screen heater on to take away some of the overload.
**** me, everyone's telling me not to run the car.

I just need a car I can ******* drive! if its not too much to ask.

bejesus *insert smilie of John banging his head on a brick wall*
 

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John people are telling you not to drive the car.

1.it is not safe.
2. it will cost you money buying new batteries.

So why not get the Alternator checked and then fixed if that indeed turns out to be teh fault.
 

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mgb
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14.5 volt output is about right for the alternator output. It is excess current output that will overcharge the battery and cause it to 'gas' - hence the smell - there is an integral regulator that controls it, if that is faulty, it can continually run at it's maximum output which can be over 70 amps.
 
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